How much overhang is ok between a speaker base and the stand top plate?

This thread extends another I posted about "mass loading" stands.
As I mentioned in those threads, I’m choosing speaker stands for my Salk SS 6M speakers. They measure:

20” H x 9 1/8” W x 14 5/16” D

There are many options for speakers stands, but the choice is complicated by the size of the speaker’s width and depth.

Many stands feature a top plate that is 6" x 6" or 6" x 8" or 7" x 7" etc.

On *any* of these top plates, my speaker would hang off the sides and front/back by at at least 2-3 inches.

For example, I’m considering Target stands but am not sure if it’s worth spending good $$ on a stand if there is this amount of overhang.

Seeking opinions about the "overhang" issue between speaker base and stand top plate. How important is this for the sound? How much overhang is too much?

And if it was necessary to have a top plate made locally to go along with the stand, would I just affix it myself? Have it welded on? I didn’t want this to get so complicated.

Thanks for your opinions.
I can't see that it matters much at all, as long as the speakers are stable and secure.


@hilde45, The size of the top plate overhang will not effect the sound. But the height of the stand will. A top plate of 7''x7'' is fine.  :-)
yes - agree w the above

if speaker is secure on base, its good

don’t obsess, just enjoy the music hilde!!


Agreed!  -- I might be obsessing, a little, but because I'm at the point of purchase, I wanted to check. And my Salks are really unusually big compared to most speakers. Far fewer 20" stand options.

The suggestions are appreciated, too!

I second the Timbernation stands, or something built to your specs. I have the ones that are second to the left in the photos and they work fine.

I no longer use monitors but kept the stands because they're made so well. Just in case. 😄👍

All the best,
@twoleftears That might be good. If I decide to go with MDF, they seem the way to go.
skylan stands are solid and stable and come with excellent iso bumpers for the top plate.
you can also fill the columns (i used cat litter with excellent results).
much preferred to the mass market metal stands.
a couple inches of overhang of the speaker panels is not an issue. just make sure they are centered and the center of gravity of the speaker is over the top plate- left to right centering is fine but usually the center of gravity of a speaker is more forward because of the mass of the woofer magnet. in other words it’s better to have a little more overhang in the back than the front for front / back stability and resistance to toppling.  
Maple is a very dense wood and there's no need or way to fill them to deaden them even more, like you have to do with hollow metal stands. Any fill you use in those stands will "sound" different than each other.

What I did with my Timbernation stands was to use some Les Davis constrained layer damping pads to rest the speakers on and they made a slight improvement. I would imagine using something like Isoacoustic Gaia footers would work even better.

All the best,
I have JM Reynaud Offrand Supreme V2s in my 2nd system. They are 17H x 17L x 10 W and hand 4 3/4 inches off the back & front and 1 1/2 inches off the sides of the accompanying stands. Zero sonic issues
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@facten Thanks. That's the kind of experience I was hoping for. I do like the idea of customizing the top plate, though I see it's not necessary.

@nonoise Do you assemble the stands? If I decide to get different speakers down the road, would these come apart? No need to plan for that, but the Skylan and Target stands come apart.
Buy whatever you like for stands regardless of plate size.
Go to a welder and have him fabricate a base plate to your dimensions  Then powder coat it in whatever color you like, I'm a big fan of medium Gloss Black. Shocking! But occasionally I like Chartreuse!!
I have Skylan stands. Noel made them to the specific height that I needed. I assume he can also build stands with custom sized top plates.

I’d go Timber Nation, custom built to your exact dimensions, look, and wood.  Then I’d use iso acoustic orea under the speakers.

I’ve been talking about just building some walnut speaker stands and when I priced the wood needed for what I want (2” top and bottom plates, with 4 2”x2” poles) today, it will be close to $200 for me to do that.  Walnut is expensive but beautiful.

Anyhow, I digress.  Timber Nation or Skylan would be my choice
Way back when I read that the speaker shelf plate should not extend beyond the speaker at all to reduce diffraction.  Seemed like good advice.
Right.  Then as long as the speaker is secure and not easily tipped you should be fine.  Unless you have considerations like cats that like to jump up there.  I don't think the overhang of the speaker will affect sound quality in any way.

Rule of thumb: if the speaker falls off the stand, you have too much overhang. Also would always recommend heavy metal stand over wood, despite the aesthetic appeal of wood.
“Rule of thumb: if the speaker falls off the stand, you have too much overhang.”
^^^^ 😂
"Rule of thumb": If I fall forward off my bar stool, I have too much overhang.

I suppose "too much overhang" = "over-overhang"

Not to be confused with "over hungover."
Getting technical, you may want to read a female treatise on the subject as your question does involve a "Parallelogram of forces".
However, you’d have to determine the centre of gravity of your particular speakers and THAT, when standing on the supports FIRST!

Then read the answer to your question, see below:

Once done add at least some 20% safety margine for your cat, or other possible interference with gravity.
And now have fun.

PS how to find the centre of gravity for your setup GOOGLE it, eh.
M. 🇿🇦
Personally I prefer an ample amount of overhang but there can't be too much. I believe in a good balance between overhang and firmness. Good support is crucial!
Atacama in the UK makes nice stands in an abundance of sizes. I've used them for years....
I use Audioquest Sorbothane mats to adhere my 1 cu. ft. speakers to Target HR50 stands (with stance plates).  These seem to serve well as vibration blockers, metal ringing dampers, and hold the speakers firmly from falling if accidentally bumped.  They also don't materially change the height of the speaker, and best of all...don't cost much ($49.00 @ AA).  On the overhang question, don't be overly concerned as long as you have a rigid stand and a secure attachment to the speaker, either by adhesive or by screwing up through from the bottom.  Don't want to mar the veneer on the bottom...try the sorbothane...

good point you make on what is used to adhere speakers to the stands

often blu tack in used, but left in place for long time, it can actually pull off the veneer off the speaker bottom - noooo bueno!!!!   so if you use blu tack use just a tiny pellet 
Thanks for the additonal suggestions. Didn't know that about blue tack. Worrisome. I cannot imagine drilling holes in these speakers. The pad idea is a nice one, too.
Hilde, why not a pair of Sanus SFC 18 b1?

They are sand fillable, sturdy steel stands.  Spikes on the bottom.  I’ve haf a few pair and they are really actually great stands for the $.

The top plate is almost perfect for you at 14x8.  They say they hold speakers up to 35 pounds but they will hold more.  

Oh, and in my experience, once you have a solid stand, more gains can be had with some iso acoustics orea’s than from a sturdy $200 stand vs a sturdy $600 stand.

The little cups and bearings work well to on a budget if you don’t do isoacoustics.

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So $139 x 2 (speaker stands) + $99 (pucks) = $377 and this is unbeatable?

Better than Skylan?
Better than what others have been suggesting (Sound Anchors and Target and other stands) ranging from $500 up to $1000?