Optimal Vandersteen 2Wq settings

I have a pair of 2Wq subs I am trying before I buy (chances are more than good that I will).
I have trawled posts here and elsewhere and would appreciate some help.

NB- my evaluation is somewhat flawed as my Cary DAC is in for repairs and I am using a USB DAC similar to an older Audioquest Dragonfly (Prodigy D2A which never made it to market). Less gain, sound a little recessed and flat and harsh on the tops for my liking. The implementation does give it more body than I recall it ever having and I can definitely hear my Eminent Technology LFT8b speakers singing more freely, with more gain.

Still fiddling with dip switches and not sure if 50k or 33k works best (with polarity reversed).
Q is at its lowest, db about the same as my speakers (84).
Not sure what changes to these settings do.
My Hypex Ncore amps have a DM input impedance of 104kohms.
Preamp is a Modwright LS100.

A shortcoming of the LFT8’s is some thinness or lack of body. i would like to know if anyone can advise a setting that may remedy this (without buying speakers or using Jriver's DSP).
For peak performance

Have you fully considered the OEM manual milestones via a vis your amp impedance load and its effect on your selection on the sub dip switches; and also buying their highly recommended Upgrade to their accessory add-on external crossovers?

Yes to both questions, though the ms-hp crossover is way beyond my non-existent budget. 
I am using a pair of 2wq subs. with my Vandersteen Treo CT speakers.  With an amplifier impedance of 104kohms, you should set the crossover dip switches to 50kohms.  The 2wq manual says to set your crossover one setting BELOW the actual amp impedance.

As far as the "Q" setting, I too have mine set at "1' for the tightest bass response as the 8 inch woofers in my Treo CT are very tight in their response.  For the db setting I started with the efficiency of my main speakers and then adjusted slightly one way or the other by listening.  I found listening to a good recording with a stand up acoustic bass to be helpful with this.  I used Ron Carter CDs to help me with that.

I hope this info. is helpful.  Please feel free to ask more questions you may have.

My local VANDY dealer --in his opinion and experience -- STRONGLY urges the insertion of the accessory OEM  upgraded X-2 or X-2B  inline fixed crossover for a proper 2-channel audio setup with these high-end subwoofers 

i  have the " V2w" home theatre version used exclusively for multichannel AV only, and because it has an LFE direct output, I cannot personally comment further on his 2-channel direct hook-up setup as you require. 

FWIW .....
Thanks for the responses. I may have come across as a bit dim (and probably am) but made a typo.
hifiman5- I do have it at 50, I do know what the Q does (and means).
I wasn’t sure what changing the db setting would do, but will experiment.
As I said my DAC is away (and the usb board heading from South Africa to the States and back so could take a while, but I hope to use it with another input in the meantime).
I’ll have a better idea when it’s back in my system and then will get fixed value crossovers.

Any decent acoustic bass recording playing scales so you can get the transition volume levels to match will work.
Richard recommends Ray Brown - Soular Energy - I agree and use that - and IMO also dang fine music.
As for Q I would encourage some experimentation.
Also while you do not have adjustable EQ you should download Vandertones test tones and get a Radio Shack analog SPL meter ( eBay) so you know what the room is going - Q and careful placement with data will help you get stellar sound.

Thanks Jim. I listened to the Soular Energy album earlier. DAC aside, it sounded excellent.
My tweeters are adjustable so may lower the setting to spare my ears. Pink Floyd, More, was a nails on blackboard affair. Reminded me of a couple of Rotel systems hehe.
Oh, I’m way past the should I or shouldn’t I buy stage by the way.
I’ll check out the Vandertones and plan to use REW at some stage. I haven’t before but had a TacT unit previously. Anything is easier than that :)
First prize would be getting a friend with acoustic design nouse to do that for me. 
hope your ears survive till the DAC gets back home
would be cool if you do in future post the low frequency curves you get - I think more people can benefit if they take these simple steps to aid setup, placement, etc

Adiebear, if you can't afford the M5-HP, then you should get the fixed crossovers from Vandersteen. I think they are only $100-200. They will give you better sound. The supplied crossovers are only meant as a temporary solution.
Vandersteen recommends trying impedance settings 1 up or down from the rated Kohm resistance of your amp to see what sounds best.
I believe the db setting is set to match your speakers efficiency-according to the manual.
If you decide that 100kohms sounds best, let me know as I have a pair of 100kohms  X-2 crossovers.

Make sure before you call RV you read the owners manual
 and understand it,
 The temporary assessment box when adjusted should only be judged for the bass.
 Once you have the bass correct you order the X2 in that range
 and your whole system after 96 hours of run in will be much better
 The premium Battery biased X5s are even more transparent which in the grand scheme of what you have invested is highly advised.
   If this fails keep the 2WQs and get a pair of Vandersteen 3A Sigs
  For a Pink Floyd wow WTF happened moment.
Thanks all. I promise I have read and understood the manual.As I said I will reassess when I have my Cary DAC back (the Pink Floyd WTF happened moment was cos of the usb DAC and uber harsh upper frequency glare)
Hifiman- 50K is what I need.
JohhnyR, I read through your post with the Ken Kessler interview. Nice
I will also chat to my Vandy dealer, who is selling the subs. He used them in one of his systems.
I bought my LFT8's from him as well and I think there are some used Treos and Model 5s in his shop. Hmmm.... trade-in???
I've not heard either, only the 1C (meh), 2 Ce (very nice but I prefer the LFTs to those and Vivid 1.5s) and Model 7 (yes please!).

Off topic but, if I was ever to spend oodles on speakers, the Vivid Audio range is locally made and a relative snip (no middlemen, no duties)  and I know Philip, who lives close by, will give me a great deal. Not sure about the looks but I do not buy based on looks.

I'm not calling RV anytime soon. I have enough advice from here, his website and, of course, Audio Perfectionist.
JohnnyR- "detuned" my tweeters, so some relief there :)
I've not heard a lot of affordable subs (I do not consider Gryphon Pendragon or Acoustic Avantgarde affordable) and have been using an old REL and B&W ASW700, so these are a considerable upgrade.
I imagine they could be clearer still so best I start saving and scouring used sales since all in the know say the M5- HP is worth it.
I may get some fixed value crossovers made up in the meantime as a temporary solution.

If you get the fixed crossovers, you don't need the M5-HP.

For an inexpensive sub, I would get a pair of HSU.
For some reason, I don't seem to be able to PM members. If you are using RCA interconnects, I may be able to loan you a pair of M5-HP crossovers.
Thank you for your very kind offer gdnrbob!
I suspect we are half a world away (I'm in South Africa) so won't take you up on it. I may be tempted never to return them :)
Inexpensive? I am buying the subs for about $2220. They are not new, though seem mint.
The dealer is also asking RV to supply black wood ends so that both are black (one is oak). He has also offered me an interest free payment plan.
Plus my cat has made her home on top of one, so that's that.
So, I guess these are not sequential pairs.
Richard told me to be wary of buying subs from very different vintages as they may have different sound signatures due to his constant refinement.
Do you have the serial numbers?
Why not send an email to Vandersteen and ask his opinion, also ask about the fixed crossover (or ask your dealer)?
As a gardener, South Africa is a treasure trove of plants I mostly cannot grow (but try nonetheless).
I read that gdnrbob but I can't hear any subwoofers, just music, which is fine by me. Numbers are 16128 and 16236.
If you've been here you know the diversity of flora. I'm in a sub- tropical part and gardening in summer (now) is mostly cutting back, cutting back- especially after good rains following a severe drought.
Yes, the 2wq's should be invisible and those serial numbers aren't too far apart.
I haven't been to your part of the world due to political views, but now that that has been rectified, perhaps soon- I'll bring those crossovers, too.
(I have been trying to grow some of your Restio's, which require smoke to germinate. It has been an interesting journey).
Nah, there is a substance called 'liquid smoke'. The seeds germinated well. The hard part is overwintering in the NE USA.
If your subs are as invisible as mine, I don't doubt your cat will be very comfortable. Those low low frequencies must lull him to sleep. When I first set up my subs, I called Mr. V and said I can't hear anything. He said:
'what do you want? a Boombox?'.
They really are amazing and integrate so well. Be sure to try settings above and below your recommended setting after you listen for a week or two. Then you can decide which filter to order.
Let me know what you need, maybe I can find a pair for you and send it to you. (Thinking about it, the M5-HP has lithium batteries, so shipping wouldn't be by air). The fixed crossovers shouldn't be a problem.

 I tried the premium X5 in my system Against a custom unit with Mundorf capacitors in it and the custom unit was more transparent. I think you would be much further ahead to have your local tech build you a custom unit with the capacitors of your choice.  The only advantage of the x five is the ability to adjust for impedance which is not necessary once you figure out what setting works best. 
@analogluvr That’s where I’m headed. If I could just find a parts list and circuit diagram...
It's just one cap per channel in a box.  Very simple.  That's what I use for the pair of 2Wq subs in my system.

Here is some info on calculating the cap value based on the amp input impedance.  Also very easy


You guys must feel you reinvented the wheel 
 I have tried many caps vs Battery bias HP 5s and the HP5s were always better 
Are you sure the 9 V internals had a pulse?