I bet Albert just tossed these in the freezer for a weekend...:) I also had some improvement.
Just poking fun at ya Albert.
Just poking fun at ya Albert.
I'll have to echo Lak's comments. I bought one, was skeptical, tried it, and all I can say is wow. I can't believe the improvments in detail, background queitness, but especially a much more dramatic 3d rendering of instruments. My wife can even hear the difference, even on direct tv watching football games. The sound just has more impact.
If you are the type that is skeptical, try it. For me, it was like a interconnect cable upgrade in the 4 digit price range, not approx $40 like these are.
I have not tried all the other outlets like Lak. The only others I've had are home depot hubbels and PS Audio power ports. Both helped, but, not sure it was worth the 10 minutes to install by yourself. The Porter Ports are a steal for $40.
I like this so much, I've bought a 2nd from Albert, installed it on my phono stage and motor controller for my SME 20/2. Same thing. More detail, much more queit background, better images. My 1st Porter Port is on my amp and preamp.
I think I'll buy a 3rd for my video projector. I wonder if the picture will have the same improvements?
Please see my posted system for associated equipment.
After reading Lak's and HDM's comments in other threads regarding the benefits of unplated Hubbell outlets, I also bought a couple of the Porter Ports to try; and at the risk of sounding hyperbolic, was in awe.
I have to say that I'm usually skeptical regarding claims of this magnitude; and with most tweaks (if this is really just a tweak) I'm usually left wondering why I'm not hearing any difference. But once these things finally burned in, I realized that my modest system had finally attained the fullness, clarity, and focus that I knew had been lacking; and at a measly $36 per outlet.
Prior to Porter Ports, my system was shrill, edgy, and was painfully lacking body and bass. This had me baffled considering my Rotel amp and the Cambridge Audio CD player I was using at the time are usually described as being warm.
My first Porter Port replaced the builder grade outlet at the wall, and the second went into a power box I put together to replace a cheap power strip, so I’ll admit that I don’t have the experience of comparing multiple audiophile outlets.
But the improvement attained far exceeded my expectations and now whenever I read other threads where people are rushing to spend $$$ replacing equipment and cables, but haven’t tried a $36 outlet, I want to scream; but perhaps I might sound hyperbolic, so I don’t.
I recently had 3 power cords and some Kimber 8TC cryoed (at a very minimal cost) and the results were truly outstanding and consistent with what is heard with the Porter Ports or a cryoed Hubbell 5262 or 5362. That being said, a properly cryoed non-plated Hubbell is probably the biggest bang for buck in audio today. (The DIY JPS power cord I've been touting might come a close second). If you are not using outlets like this, you simply are not hearing what your system is capable of. If that sounds hyperbolic, so be it. Congratulations WDI!
Hi Larry: Actually, I got a bit lucky; I ended up phoning a few places locally (London, Ontario) that do metal heat treating, and Bayson Heat Treating had just recently acquired a cryo unit. As I was somewhat familiar with the process, I made sure that it was what I wanted (a vapour cryo as opposed to actual immersion in liquid nitrogen).
The guy that did it for me was extremely careful as 1) they had initially had a problem with the unit with some liquid nitrogen (a few inches) appearing in the unit and 2) I told him that the wiring he was cryoing was fairly expensive.
They had replaced a part on the unit and had no further problems with LN being in the drum at the end of the process, but just to be on the safe side, they now raise everything off the floor of the drum by about 4-5 inches just in case, and he actually only takes things down to around -300F (He showed me the chart on my particular cryo, which was done with some other stuff-non audio-that was being cryoed at the same time, thus keeping the cost very reasonable).
In any event, I probably would not have done it if I had to ship my stuff out to the U.S. and wait 3-4 weeks to get it back; I'd have too much audio/video withdrawl! This worked out tremendously. I simply took the stuff in and picked it up two days later-whole process was about 30-35 hours and the stuff was still a bit cool when I picked it up.
The results on the wire were exactly like those experienced with the cryoed outlets; blacker background combined with much more extension at the frequency extremes, and a much more fleshed out, more detailed and transparent midband with more info. The wires needed to break-in a bit after the cryo as there was a bit of birghtness or edge to them, but they seemed to smooth out fairly quickly (within about 2-3 weeks) and it has been a great success.
I will probably do a few other things in the next few months-want to reterminate my phono cables with Eichmann's and I held off on cryoing the OTA interconnects and power cord I use because I was a bit nervous about them-will probably do all these and a bit more in the coming months when I can get around to it.
Did any of you folks check out the article by Art Dudley in the November issue of Stereophile wherein he compares the merits of the PS Audio Power Ports to a "run of the mill" receptacle (in this case the Eagle 426)? He appears to start off as a skeptic, but finds audible and consistent benefits to the Power Port. The Hubbell 8300 does get a brief mention, though there is no head to head against it and the Power Port (which is made by Hubbell). It would have been great if they could have also compared it to a cryo'd Porter Port. Maybe Albert can send Art one or two?
Just curious: Has anybody claiming large benefits for upgraded or cryo'ed outlets actually installed them alongside their previously existing outlets and done extensive A/B comparison testing? By nature, I tend to be incurably dubious of sonic improvements claimed on a basis of delayed, non-head-to-head audition results. I know that if I upgraded my outlets and then thought I heard a large difference but had no availability of a direct comparison, I would reflexively question the validity of my perceived results. (This goes for anything, BTW, not just tweaks. Please don't misunderstand me - I'm not saying there could be no physical basis for improved performance with better outlets. But people are fooling themselves if they don't realize that there is just as much basis for the very real placebo effect, as well as for the highly variable and subjective nature of sensorial memory. Reliably verifying, quantifying, and describing a tweaky improvement is a separate question from its theoretical potential to exist at all. If the day comes when I bite the bullet and install upgraded outlets and wiring, I plan to leave the old stuff in place if I can, so that I might really find out where I stand.)
My system allows me to accomplish a set-up to do exactly that, compare one outlet to another, and another, and another etc.
I've compared *many* outlets and cryo'd outlets. Talk to Psychicanimal, he has been over to my place many times. In my opinion no Voodoo or mind games here, I know what I hear and what I like. People are allowed to have differences in opinion and what I like might not be another persons selection, but as we all know a system synergy can have a lot to do with it.
Zaikesman: Although I make use of fairly extensive power conditioning in my system, I have done no electrical upgrades or dedicated lines in my house. With respect to placebo, if you are running your entire system off one receptacle, it may (just may) be possible to argue that the placebo effect comes into play with receptacles. As the effects are cumulative, however, I will guarantee that you will hear a substantial improvement in the sound quality of your system by doing the following and incurring a very modest outlay.
I'm assuming you are running your system off between 2 and 5 standard duplexes. Purchase 2-5 stock Hubbell 5262's from an electrical supply house; your cost on this will be between $20 and $50. The 5262 is not a sub-standard outlet; in fact I would argue that, for reasons I won't go into here, it is the best outlet to cryo (along with the 15 amp version of Albert Porter's non-plated 8300) for any audiophile not having equipment with 20 amp male plugs. I'm assuming you have no equipment with 20 amp male plugs.
Replace all of the receptacles at once and you will hear an improvement akin to a major component upgrade. Even without dedicated lines, placebo will not be entering your mind. Your system will sound substantially better. This is with the receptacles fresh out of the box. They will fully break-in over a 4-5 week period and sound even better. You could then go back to your stock receptacles if you wanted. On the other hand, if you like what you then have, you could either 1) pop for cryoed units or 2) cryo the ones you have. I seem to recall you are in the northeastern States and my guess is that you could probably track down relatively easily a company to do the cryo for you at a modest expense (I recently had 3 power cords and two 15 foot runs of Kimber 8TC done for $30). The improvements you will get following the cryo and re-burn-in will approximate further the improvements you got going from the stock house receptacles to the standard Hubbells. They get substantially better with a proper cryo.
I simply offer this up as someone who messed around with about 5 different receptacles over the course of about 18 months. It was a time consuming, pain in the ass kind of experience, but it brought me much better sound. Cryoed Hubbell 5262/5362 or non plated 8200/8300 receptacles are, in my mind, the biggest bang for the buck in audio and absolutely necessary to realize the full potential of your system.
And if I'm wrong, you're out $20-$50 and can replace some worn out receptacles at your house. Good luck.
I would like to take the opportunity to thank you Lak for your time and effort on your outlet reviews past and present. Your reviews have been very helpful to me and I'm sure to many as well. I recently wired three outlets side by side into one housing. Wattgate 381, Acme silver cryod, and the Hubell 5362 cryod outlets. I pigtailed them together with 12 gage copper wires and have been very please with the results. I now use different outlets on my components, and able to really fine tune the soundstage and sonics further.
Thank you too Zaikesman, I have enjoyed many of your postings and threads. Let me know when you are ready to take the plunge, and I'll spring for your first cryod outlet.
Hdm: Believe it or not, everything is plugged into one outlet, via my API Power Wedge Ultra 116 which distributes the power from there. Audio Power recommends this as the best way to combat ground potential differences that can add to system noise, and I've had no problems along those lines doing things this way. Luke Manley does suggest that I should employ separate outlets with my VTL mono's for maximum dynamics, but only because he suspects that any PLC will limit current somewhat. API, on the other hand, claims no current-limiting for the 'amplifier' outlets on their product. Whatever - my hand is forced anyway, since the outlet I'm using is the only one within extension-less reach of my equipment rack for the time being.
Tubemiser: Thanks, but this is funny. I think I can recall that another member sometime within the past year or two also offered to send me an outlet free of charge. (I'm a little mortified to find I don't remember at this point who it was anymore, but we didn't wind up doing it anyway.) Hey, maybe if I start posting like I have my doubts about all kinds of stuff, folks will start offering to send me free amps and speakers too! ;^) Ahem: I'm in Home Depot all the time - maybe one day I'll even dig for my loose change and actually bring home an outlet...
Hi Zaikesman: I believe it was me that offered to send you an Arrow Hart 8200 I had kicking around. In any event, what I was getting at in my post with respect to the cumulative effect, and specifically now that I know how your system is configured is that to realize the true potential of a receptacle upgrade you are going to have to change out the receptacles in your API. My system is configured very much like yours with everything drawing off one receptacle at the wall. I use two Innouye line conditioners, one as a dedicated unit for my integrated amplifier, and the other feeding source components, both of these being plugged into the main outlet at the wall. I have, however, replaced all the receptacles in both line conditioners with cryoed Hubbell 5262's or 5362's (I actually have a vacant cryoed 8300 in the amp's conditioner which is not in use). So my advice above still stands and the recommendation is that you change the wall outlet, as well as any in use in the API; changing only the receptacle at the wall will give you only 40-50% of the improvement that changing them all will. I have stated here before that a) you cannot really evaluate any receptacle unless every component in your system is drawing from exactly the same receptacle and b) you will never realize the true potential of your system unless you are running top quality receptacles everywhere in your system, including line conditioners, power filters and power strips.
Good point, Hdm. This is why I am using Porter Ports in my wall receptacles, my Ultimate Outlets, and in my custom double duplex boxes (with industrial grade, in-line switches). The dedicated lines are going in on Monday. The preamp/source line will be all 12AWG Belden 83803, while the power amp line will be 10AWG Romex (the 9AWG Belden was just too steep a price). Hopefully, this should eliminate any weak points on the AC side of things.
I just installed two porter ports in my system. One to a new dedicated line for my AV gear (Cary pre, amp and DVD player) and one for my video.
Yes the audio had tremendous improvements including a quieter background, better detail, imaging, livlier sound etc. But it's hard to tell if the difference is with the dedicated circuit, the Porter Port or both.
But I also added one to my projector outlet that doesn't have an audio circuit. This I can tell you made a major difference. The contrast and black level increase was obvious to everyone present, including a guy visiting us that owns a Hollywood film restoral business.
My projector is a Sony LCD unit with somewhat challenged black levels and contrast - so obviously an extremely worthwhile tweak. Especially for the price. I'd guess the improvement in black level would be similar for DLP, Plasma, etc but who knows?
The new thread activity prompts me to post an update letting Tubemiser and Hdm know that my system's wall duplex was replaced a few months back with a Porter Port.
I'm glad to report that the PP is a much more substantially-built connector, which it ought to be given how flimsy my old outlet was upon close inspection. But I couldn't leave the old one in place for sonic comparisons, nor could I install an otherwise-identical, non-cryoed version of the PP for tests regarding the effectiveness of cryo in this application.
The PP certainly grips the plug more securely, which was really all I had been after (the old outlet actually permitted the plug to vibrate when drawing power). Although I heard no differences before and after installing the PP, as I have explained to Albert, I don't draw any conclusions from that casual finding one way or the other, for the reasons I outlined above.
Nevertheless, I did manage something in the way of a reasonably objective A/B comparison test: I was able to reposition my gear rack far enough to one side that it just allowed me to move my system's central AC plug over to another outlet on an adjacent wall, normally out of reach, and still barely reach the regular duplex as well. This second outlet, like the main one I replaced with the PP, is as old as my house - close to 50 years.
This second outlet is also happens to be located on a different breaker circuit than the one my system normally plugs into. But regardless of different outlets and different circuits, I could not reliably or consistently identify any meaningful sonic changes when moving my system plug between these two duplexes, repeating audition cuts with about a 30-second delay to swap the plug's position.
As I also related to Albert, it is entirely conceivable that I don't hear any difference because I don't expect to hear any difference (based on my reasoning which I won't go into here, but which is spelled out with excrutiating detail in another archived thread on this general subject). I don't personally believe this is the case mind you - I like to think I'm open to hearing whatever there is to hear - but I must acknowledge it is possible in theory.
Another potential explanation for why I don't detect a difference might be that the alternate outlet is not just located on a separate, but on a somehow 'better' breaker circuit - the sonic superiority of which is just about right to confoundingly offset the outlet superiority of the PP located on the inferior circuit. Again, I don't personally buy this story, but it needs to be mentioned as a theoretical possibility.
Not surprisingly I'm not surprised by my findings, so to speak. I'm also not disappointed, and I hope no one else will be either, particularly those who encouraged me. I believe they only had my best interests at heart, and I assure them I do not have an agenda to 'prove' anybody 'wrong' on this topic.
Obviously many people are convinced that this works to improve their sound, and my experience won't and shouldn't disuade them. Or anybody else, especially given that a PP is a fairly cheap tweak, one on which no real profit is being taken.
Albert made these available, at no small trouble (yet little or no monetary reward) to himself, as a service, because he believes in this tweak's efficacy and wants to share the sonic benefits he perceives with others. As all can see, many pleased buyers have reported sonic satisfaction with their purchase.
Although it's true I don't hear a difference, I actually feel satisfied too - because, as I told Albert when I ordered mine, time and many trips to Home Despot had proven that this was the only way I was going to be forced to get off the dime and actually do something about my rickety old outlet (which may have been a lurking hazard for all I know - not long before, another original outlet in the house started smoking spontaneously due to corrosion, very luckily with me present in the room). Yes, I could've bought an upgraded outlet for less at the store without the cryo, but the point is I hadn't, repeatedly. So purchasing the Porter Port did indeed help achieve my goals in this area, and you can't ask for more than that.
Thank you Larryb, your results are what I experienced in my own system.
This may now be long forgotten, Porter Ports began as a personal project to avoid paying retail for the outlets I needed during construction of my listening room.
I sourced un-plated parts from Hubbell (special order) and an old friend who did contract work for NASA got the cryo work sourced.
After my positive experience, I posted this in my Virtual System and began getting requests from members for an outlet of their own.
We literally put together a group of 50 members who paid up front for parts and cryo and we waited for a couple of months for this to get finished.
It was so successful I continued to offer them.
I had my Porter Port installed where I have most of my equipment hooked up into my Monster 2000 Power Strip.I also plugged my turntable straight into the Porter Port has well.
The table dramatically became much quieter.I had very black background with an increase of transparency that was very apparent to both me and my wife who normally just casually listens to music,But did notice the improvement right out the gate.
The Porter Port also seem to reduce to a large degree RFI from my unshielded cables I have in parts of my system.
So Kudos TO ALBERT.I only need to get one more Porter Port for my living room where I have my tube amp in a seperate outlet,due to the high current draw of my ARC tube amp.
I had my Porter Ports installed by an electrician because I wasn't sure if I had a ground wire since I was using two prong outlets. I'm glad i did because he told me one of the outlets was wired wrong creating a hot ground. Any way what the Porter Ports did to my system is to move me maybe two or three rows closer to the stage.I also hear a litle more inner detail in my musical presentation. I also find peace of mind in knowing that when my dog is snooping around my Tice Power Block the vice grip hold the Porter Port has on my plug will prevent her from accidently pulling it out. Well worth the money.
Ditto to Lak's review on Albert Porter ports! :^))
I was floored when I replaced my outlets with Albert Porter's ports last week. Had my system for over 3 years and never had it sang like it does now. Dynamics are just fantastic. Liquid like details of strings. Vocals focused dead center with blacker background. I'm A very very happy Camper....For a few dollars I've taken my system to another level IMHO.
I have been skeptic about power outlets, PC, & ICs to the point of ridicule for years. I'm now a firm convert.
I'm now in the process upgrading all my PCs with cryod parts from "VH Audio" and "Cryo parts" (DIY). And lastly getting dedicated lines installed sometime next year.
Hi this thread maybe slightly outdated but some of u mayb able to help me. I m building a dedicated room and considering some outlet. Only prob is that I noticed most outlets including Porter Port do not have faceplate and I m not keen to buy ultra expensive faceplate like oyaide carbon fibre face plate. My question is that what faceplate u use with your Porter Port or what type of face plate I shldnt use? USA outlet is not easily available in my country tq