Also the hum went away when the switch is on the operating mode.
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Sorry for the brevity of my first response to your question about how to open up the case of the H3000. I was typing on my iPhone. I have no idea of your level of knowledge and experience when it comes to working on audio equipment, so that response was based on an assumption that you are not, in fact, experienced. You’ve got a very expensive, very fine piece of gear there. I would not advise you to service it yourself. If, however, you know what you’re doing, you probably by now have figured out how to open the case. Let’s assume that you do find a problem that is as obvious as a loose, unconnected wire. Would you know how to solder it back into place and what it should connect to? If the answers to those two questions are not yes and yes, it would be worthwhile to find a competent tech.
By the way, in my experience, problems like this rarely are as obvious as as a "loose wire". A bad ground could be caused by a cold solder joint that may look fine by inspection.
I don’t agree with Yogiboy, by the way.
@yogiboy The unit operates perfectly, and the music sounds awesome. I really don’t want to return it. And I think the mute button is sn easy fix. I am contacting the seller to see what he will say.
@lewm I know how to soldier, it just I am afraid I will damage the unit by opening it up the wrong way. I have made my own intetconnects, so I think this job is not hard for me if I could open it up.
if you reach out to Albert Porter, he may be able to help guide you, with all the appropriate disclaimers. Never heard of this problem, but dig mine. He might also be able to tell you the age- there was a running change on the unit roughly 5-6 years ago involving transformers and a few things in the power supply.
Roll the rectifier tube- lot's of threads on that subject. Big differences, and some of the good ones aren't crazy money.
Speaking of interconnects, can you say more about your other components? Are you running the H3000 in balanced or SE mode? Is the hum in both channels? (I assumed so, since you probably would have mentioned it if the hum was in only one channel.) If you're using the SE outputs, you might try switching to the balanced outputs, or vice-versa.
Here are the list of my components:
Garrard 301 with 2 tonearms:
Moerch DP-6 with ZYX Aries 3 Moerch Phono Cable
Polstar PS-UNV2 with ZYX Omega Gold, Polstar phono cable
Homemade Silver IC
Shindo Montille EL84
Belden Speaker Cables
Devore Fidelity The Nines
I dont have any balance IC to try for now.
I will switch my homemade IC to the MIT avt1 IC to check.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Forgot to note that your Shindo stuff is strictly single-ended. So I don't know whether you can really do true balanced mode, to test the function of the switch. (I am not even sure how the Allnic achieves balanced output. It might be via a transformer, since I would bet the circuitry is actually SE.)
@dangcaonguyen - I agree that you should speak to seller first before you open up the unit or commit to spending money. May still be worth talking to Albert about your options. Perhaps it is a simple fix, but presumably that’s going to be out of the seller’s pocket. (and you’ll need to find a decent shop near you-- I hate shipping gear if it can be avoided; I actually dropped off my stuff at Thalmann’s en route from NY to Texas).
Assuming the unit is already out of factory warranty period, the main concern- once you reach agreement on approach with your seller, is to avoid a situation where the manufacturer says "oh, you let someone unauthorized work on it, so in the future, you may have problems getting service." Frankly, I don’t think Albert would jam you- and the support I got through David Beetles (and subsequently Albert) has been first rate- they have the relationship with Mr. Park, and it makes it way easier for them (now Albert) to guide you. Hopefully, you get it sorted fast, cheaply and easily. Let us know what happens.
I would think there would be some good techs in your area.
@lewm I switched the interconects to MIT, the problem is still there.
You are right, when I stand with bare foot and touch the transformer’s gain knobs, the hum is gone. The problem is the ground disconnect while on the mute mode.
@whart Thank you, I will wait for a day or two to contact Albert. But as of right now, I trust the seller with his excellent reputation. I think he will contact me tomorrow when he is back to work.
schubert"a different cable often takes 2 weeks or more
to "settle" in a system"
It sounds like something is very wrong with your Music Reproduction System such as badly contaminated plugs jacks or connectors or defective wire that should be discarded or some other odd failure point that can be readily corrected by a experienced and competent technician of which you should avail yourself so as to remedy this misfunction.
If you're on the West Coast, I agree with others that Albert Porter will probably treat you well. He may even be able to recommend a repair person in your area of California. Dave Beetles is also a first rate person. And yes, it would seem fair to have the other guy pay for any repairs. By the same token, I doubt he was aware of the problem, which likely is the result of shipping and "handling".
I am lucky in that Bill Thalmann's shop is only about 30 minutes from my house.
I am happy to report back that the problem is fixed. Its just the switch on the back of the unit. I firgot to switch it back to RCA. (What a stupid I am). Please apologize for my ignorance.
Now I am very happy that the H-3000 is as quiet as a tombstone.
About tube rolling, what are you reccomend? The seller already installed the RCA nos rectifer tube on the power supply. But if you know pf the better tube please tell.
Calvin- quite a few threads on the subject. A lot of the rectifiers are cheap enough that you can try several for yourself and see what works best in your system. I am presently using a GEC U-52, have used a fat base first series Mullard (the earlier metal base is preferred) and there is a military RCA from WWII with a particular getter arrangement that is supposed to be good. (Perhaps that's what's in there). You might look at Dub-Step Girl's Massive Rectifier Shoot-Out (or something like that)-- she does describe the general character of many rectifiers, but I think the results will still depend on the circuit and what you are chasing in the system.
I'm glad the problem was simple to address. Enjoy your new phono stage!
dangcaonguyen OP87 posts04-29-2018 5:38pmI am on the west coast, Southern California.Late to this thread. Glad you figured it out. For future reference, Roger Modjeski of Music Reference is authorized to work on Allnic gear. He’s up here in the SF Bay Area. Terrific guy, and one of the most knowledgeable techs you’ll find.
Excellent news on solving your hum issue, thank you for doing this research for us.. :)
Regarding the rectifier, I have tested many, and have a few favourites that to me and friends are stand out options: KR Audio 5u4g being the first, a wonderful match and so full and open sounding. Second is not generally available off the shelf so to speak, and it is the Ayon 5u4g. It is a large tube which requires a simple mod to fit into the psu case, but it is all that the KR is with tremendous bottom end drive, and is probably my favorite. Next I will test a KR Zirconium 5u4g, if this can improve on either the 'standard' KR or the Ayon, I have my phono stage to grow old with.. Have fun.. btw, none of these are cheap!