I'm of the opinion that the output stage is 80% of the sound quality. What I've seen DAC chips bring to the table are different distortion profiles (sound, not necessarily measured THD+N), linearity and how well they handle Redbook (44.1kHz/16 bit) music. Of course, a modern DAC has vanishingly low jitter via less expensive very consistent oscillators.
I honestly think we may like DAC's with poor linearity, as they enhance how a signal fades and may give a lot more air. Around the early 2000s DACs also made a big jump in quality for Redbook, meaning the delta between that and Hi res playback really narrowed.

