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What capacitor would you use to upgrade Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary?

I’m going to swap out the generic 6.8uF cap on the tweeter side of the crossover. Wharfedale was very supportive and sent a schematic.

Note: If you have opinions that gear shouldn’t be modified I’m not interested. I can easily swap things in and out seamlessly. Also, my view is that manufacturers have much slimmer margins than we might think. Having built stuff and modified stuff, we experience first hand the choices that engineers and bean counters must make. My sense is that the Linton can be elevated further because of this. And, capacitor swaps can be more influential (and yes, good or bad) than swapping power cords/cables.

The Linton doesn’t do anything wrong. Some might say it’s a sinner of omission? It’s overall smooth, non-fatiguing, and can really keep singing as you push power at it. I wouldn’t mind a touch more air and definition on top--without losing the smoothness.

  • Jantzen Superior Z-Caps?
  • Clarity?
  • Obligato? Man, these are reasonably priced.
  • Auricap? Another smooth, reasonably priced cap.
  • I’d love to try Audyn True Copper Max or VCAPs but that would be pretty pricey.

I’d prefer not to break the bank, which is the problem. I haven’t set a budget or priority for this project. 6.8uF values can get very pricey. So, I suppose it should be kept to less than or equal to $100 per cap. I could be persuaded to do more. :)

Any thoughts?

Calling Erik Squires! @eriksquires ! I know you have some intel here Sir!

All suggestions on caps welcome!

Thanks all!
128x128jbhiller
davekine
3 posts
 
@adg101

Hi, I saw your comments above:

I’d have to study the crossover of your Lintons, but how are you sure you shouldn’t tackle the inductors first as that’s where manufacturers cut corners before the caps. Caps for the most part are cheap compared to the inductors.

To encourage your feedback, I uploaded the Linton schematic on HifiEngine and am asking if you're willing to DL a copy, look it over and tell us what you think?  I also have some comments above.

Thank you,
DK

Full original schematic here (but a little blurry):
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/wharfedale/linton_heritage.shtm

Snapshot of schematic and photo of my crossover with nice labels here (both v.clear):
https://www.hifivision.com/threads/linton-crossover-upgrade.85749/#post-961789

Just Audio's youtube video showing actual crossover at 18:00:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSMa6S_YzPs

jbhiller's avatar
jbhiller OP
1,361 posts
 
@davekine,  You pose good questions.  I say they are good because you are thinking about it correctly and there are no clear answers.  

Disclaimer--I'm good at spending other peoples money--or so my wife says.  

That out of the way, I'd upgrade as much as you can afford on the mid and treble side of the network.  And, mixing cap makes is fine, but I'd go as good as you can afford.  

For example, I recently did the caps on my Klipsch Cornwall IVs.  I hated the fact that upgrading all caps on the tweeter and midhorn were going to cost me $900 when I included Path Audio resistors (dumping ceramic cast resistors).  But, these are a $6k speaker and I thought they deserve the best.  Don't people spend $900 on speaker cables? 

At any rate, I wouldn't worry as much about inductors for now.  They can have an impact but from what I recall the inductors weren't junk in the W-Dales.  

My two favorite caps right now are VCap ODAMs (like them better than VCap CuTfs, which are stellar in their own right) and ClarityCap CMR.  The ODAMs get the nod against many on sound but when you look at their size you will be happy to install them!

Finally, I really wish I could've heard the Lintons upgraded. They are just a wonderful speaker.  I think they are a hi fi bargain of the last decade.  When the guy who bought mine showed up to pick them up, he couldn't believe how heavy, solid, and beautiful they were for a $1500 speaker with stands.  
sns
3,003 posts
 
Presently using Jupiter VT, Audyn True Copper Max and Dueland Silver bypass in my greatly modded Klipschorns, so much better than Sonic caps. I use Duelund VSF copper in both my bam and crossover in my Merlin VSM. I've used many copper foils and other boutique caps in various projects over the years, pick cap based on sound signature you're looking for.
hi2alex2's avatar
hi2alex2
12 posts
 
Hi JB, I'm planning the same upgrade. I recently upgraded the crossovers in a pair of Kef R300s and the results were very good. Basically, upgraded the resistors to Mills wirewounds and replaced the caps with Sonicaps with a Jantzen Alumen Z cap bypass on the tweeter. I've done this type of thing to several speakers and have learned that you have to resist the cap of the month club. When we do this we have unfortunately the limitations of space in the original design. Don't be the guy trying to fit toilet paper roll sized copper foil caps into your speakers. Been there. Done that. However,  just because we have to accept some compromises does not mean we cant have fabulous results!  Measure the spacing and sizes within the crossover and pick out the best caps you can afford "that also fit" with out making it look like a rats nest. I'm personally leaning towards  Solan SA / Mundorf ZN film/foils for C1, C2, C3, C5 and C7. Another nice option is using Mundorf EVO Alum oil for all or just C3, Clartiy cap CSA might be another option. Look at caps under 250v they will be physical smaller then 800v caps and fit better. No they are not Duelund copper foils but still be huge upgrade over the factory caps. Good luck! Please post your progress! I'm a few months away from starting.
fiesta75
1,378 posts
 
I'm still learning about charge coupled networks.
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