Hi JB, I'm planning the same upgrade. I recently upgraded the crossovers in a pair of Kef R300s and the results were very good. Basically, upgraded the resistors to Mills wirewounds and replaced the caps with Sonicaps with a Jantzen Alumen Z cap bypass on the tweeter. I've done this type of thing to several speakers and have learned that you have to resist the cap of the month club. When we do this we have unfortunately the limitations of space in the original design. Don't be the guy trying to fit toilet paper roll sized copper foil caps into your speakers. Been there. Done that. However, just because we have to accept some compromises does not mean we cant have fabulous results! Measure the spacing and sizes within the crossover and pick out the best caps you can afford "that also fit" with out making it look like a rats nest. I'm personally leaning towards Solan SA / Mundorf ZN film/foils for C1, C2, C3, C5 and C7. Another nice option is using Mundorf EVO Alum oil for all or just C3, Clartiy cap CSA might be another option. Look at caps under 250v they will be physical smaller then 800v caps and fit better. No they are not Duelund copper foils but still be huge upgrade over the factory caps. Good luck! Please post your progress! I'm a few months away from starting.
What capacitor would you use to upgrade Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary?
I’m going to swap out the generic 6.8uF cap on the tweeter side of the crossover. Wharfedale was very supportive and sent a schematic.
Note: If you have opinions that gear shouldn’t be modified I’m not interested. I can easily swap things in and out seamlessly. Also, my view is that manufacturers have much slimmer margins than we might think. Having built stuff and modified stuff, we experience first hand the choices that engineers and bean counters must make. My sense is that the Linton can be elevated further because of this. And, capacitor swaps can be more influential (and yes, good or bad) than swapping power cords/cables.
The Linton doesn’t do anything wrong. Some might say it’s a sinner of omission? It’s overall smooth, non-fatiguing, and can really keep singing as you push power at it. I wouldn’t mind a touch more air and definition on top--without losing the smoothness.
I’d prefer not to break the bank, which is the problem. I haven’t set a budget or priority for this project. 6.8uF values can get very pricey. So, I suppose it should be kept to less than or equal to $100 per cap. I could be persuaded to do more. :)
Any thoughts?
Calling Erik Squires! @eriksquires ! I know you have some intel here Sir!
All suggestions on caps welcome!
Thanks all!
Note: If you have opinions that gear shouldn’t be modified I’m not interested. I can easily swap things in and out seamlessly. Also, my view is that manufacturers have much slimmer margins than we might think. Having built stuff and modified stuff, we experience first hand the choices that engineers and bean counters must make. My sense is that the Linton can be elevated further because of this. And, capacitor swaps can be more influential (and yes, good or bad) than swapping power cords/cables.
The Linton doesn’t do anything wrong. Some might say it’s a sinner of omission? It’s overall smooth, non-fatiguing, and can really keep singing as you push power at it. I wouldn’t mind a touch more air and definition on top--without losing the smoothness.
- Jantzen Superior Z-Caps?
- Clarity?
- Obligato? Man, these are reasonably priced.
- Auricap? Another smooth, reasonably priced cap.
- I’d love to try Audyn True Copper Max or VCAPs but that would be pretty pricey.
I’d prefer not to break the bank, which is the problem. I haven’t set a budget or priority for this project. 6.8uF values can get very pricey. So, I suppose it should be kept to less than or equal to $100 per cap. I could be persuaded to do more. :)
Any thoughts?
Calling Erik Squires! @eriksquires ! I know you have some intel here Sir!
All suggestions on caps welcome!
Thanks all!