What capacitor would you use to upgrade Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary?

For everyone,
A copy of the Wharfedale Linton Heritage crossover is now posted at HifiEngine:

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/wharfedale/linton_heritage.shtml

JB,
Hi, thanks again for your help and feedback. I'm in full agreement with your position on a qualitative upgrade but I'm still quite interested hearing what could (should???) be done quantitatively (a change in values or circuitry).

From a quality standpoint, the C3=15uf (mylar) is downstream of the C1=6.8uf and C2=0.68uf (both MKP) and in series with the tweeter so I'm inclined to think the quality C3 is just as important and should directly match the capacitors used at C1-C2...else the C3 limit the goodness provided by an expensive upgrade at C1-C2.

Speaking of expensive, I looked at some prices and a 15uf cap costs nearly double that of a 6.8uf, so if we shelled out $80 for the 6.8uf, we'd be looking at about $150 for the 15uf.

On that point I have to question my thinking about requiring C1+C2+C3 to all be matched, i.e., use Audyn Tri-Reference at all three positions and is it necessary?  Said differently, how much do we give up if we step down in quality (arguable) and price and use, say, a $12 Jantzen Standard Z-cap at C3 but keep Audyn Tri-Ref at C1-C2?

Perhaps the real solution is to recognise the economics of the original design (especially the tweeter and midrange quality) and not waste money going beyond a matched set of Standard or Superior Z-caps at all three positions? But are the drivers really that limited in quality and not worth a Audyn Tri-Ref or ODAM or your favorite/best cap etc???

Or should we upgrade another area of the crossover first, like the inductors?

JB, I surely don't expect you to have answers for me, I'm really asking the community what is the functional importance of C3 and what is the the best practice for upgrading C1, C2, C3 as a whole?

Thanks again and I hope to hear back from you when it's convenient,
DK

@adg101

Hi, I saw your comments above:

I’d have to study the crossover of your Lintons, but how are you sure you shouldn’t tackle the inductors first as that’s where manufacturers cut corners before the caps. Caps for the most part are cheap compared to the inductors.

To encourage your feedback, I uploaded the Linton schematic on HifiEngine and am asking if you're willing to DL a copy, look it over and tell us what you think?  I also have some comments above.

Thank you,
DK

Full original schematic here (but a little blurry):
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/wharfedale/linton_heritage.shtm

Snapshot of schematic and photo of my crossover with nice labels here (both v.clear):
https://www.hifivision.com/threads/linton-crossover-upgrade.85749/#post-961789

Just Audio's youtube video showing actual crossover at 18:00:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSMa6S_YzPs

@davekine,  You pose good questions.  I say they are good because you are thinking about it correctly and there are no clear answers.  

Disclaimer--I'm good at spending other peoples money--or so my wife says.  

That out of the way, I'd upgrade as much as you can afford on the mid and treble side of the network.  And, mixing cap makes is fine, but I'd go as good as you can afford.  

For example, I recently did the caps on my Klipsch Cornwall IVs.  I hated the fact that upgrading all caps on the tweeter and midhorn were going to cost me $900 when I included Path Audio resistors (dumping ceramic cast resistors).  But, these are a $6k speaker and I thought they deserve the best.  Don't people spend $900 on speaker cables? 

At any rate, I wouldn't worry as much about inductors for now.  They can have an impact but from what I recall the inductors weren't junk in the W-Dales.  

My two favorite caps right now are VCap ODAMs (like them better than VCap CuTfs, which are stellar in their own right) and ClarityCap CMR.  The ODAMs get the nod against many on sound but when you look at their size you will be happy to install them!

Finally, I really wish I could've heard the Lintons upgraded. They are just a wonderful speaker.  I think they are a hi fi bargain of the last decade.  When the guy who bought mine showed up to pick them up, he couldn't believe how heavy, solid, and beautiful they were for a $1500 speaker with stands.  

Presently using Jupiter VT, Audyn True Copper Max and Dueland Silver bypass in my greatly modded Klipschorns, so much better than Sonic caps. I use Duelund VSF copper in both my bam and crossover in my Merlin VSM. I've used many copper foils and other boutique caps in various projects over the years, pick cap based on sound signature you're looking for.

Hi JB, I'm planning the same upgrade. I recently upgraded the crossovers in a pair of Kef R300s and the results were very good. Basically, upgraded the resistors to Mills wirewounds and replaced the caps with Sonicaps with a Jantzen Alumen Z cap bypass on the tweeter. I've done this type of thing to several speakers and have learned that you have to resist the cap of the month club. When we do this we have unfortunately the limitations of space in the original design. Don't be the guy trying to fit toilet paper roll sized copper foil caps into your speakers. Been there. Done that. However,  just because we have to accept some compromises does not mean we cant have fabulous results!  Measure the spacing and sizes within the crossover and pick out the best caps you can afford "that also fit" with out making it look like a rats nest. I'm personally leaning towards  Solan SA / Mundorf ZN film/foils for C1, C2, C3, C5 and C7. Another nice option is using Mundorf EVO Alum oil for all or just C3, Clartiy cap CSA might be another option. Look at caps under 250v they will be physical smaller then 800v caps and fit better. No they are not Duelund copper foils but still be huge upgrade over the factory caps. Good luck! Please post your progress! I'm a few months away from starting.