Before replacing the fuse, remove the metal rear panel and test all the parts on it’s back with a magnet. You will be surprised to find that Magnepan uses ferrous (steel!) parts. I found steel parts in both the fuse holder and the Magnepan speaker hook-up connectors. That imo is a much bigger deal than the fuse itself.
I disconnected the fuse holder---bypassing it, and replaced the Magnepan connectors with Cardas binding posts, which fit into the stock holes without modification. Maggie old-timers have done both for many years.
@cjwessing, I would be happy to, but haven’t yet replaced the digital camera that some low-life stole out of my car. And I’m one of those Luddites that still doesn’t have a smart phone, still using a flip phone!
But there are pics of what you want to see in postings on the Planar Speaker Asylum. That’s where I learned of the ferrous parts, and installing Cardas binding posts (which I had already done on my power amps).
No Need to worry about removing the fuses altogether which is what Ive vetted as safe. If you would like to see my videos of the Maggies at over 90Db with ribbon safe and sound feel free to check out the videos here
If getting these, get ones that have a 30 day return, try them out, and compare them to good quality $2 industry fuses from here.
Better still, put some copper wire in place of your fuse and don't overdrive your speaker, many speakers (even planers and ESL's) don't have fuses.
Of the fifteen or so high end fuses listed on The Cable Company fuse page most are less than $50. We already know the new Gold and Silver cryod Brimar fuse is only $35. Come on, people, most high end fuses are not (rpt not) expensive. Let’s get real. Save the $2 off the shelf fuses for your boom box.
@georgehifi - " Better still, put some copper wire in place of your fuse and don’t overdrive your speaker, many speakers (even planers and ESL’s) don’t have fuses." Better yet(what I’ve always done with Maggies, while installing WBT 5 ways), unscrew the Magnepan input plate and just bypass all the fuse holders and jumper screw terminals. A simple procedure, that eliminates all the steel and crappy conductors/connections, in the signal path. Of course then, clean/adequate power and judicious volume control use, become hard and fast rules(as you mentioned).