Help Building an Audio Room

I would try to net out a 13X 15 X 9 room. Sound transmission to the master suite indicates using not only a resilient clip system for the ceiling, and a layer of 1/2" plus a layer of 5/8" sheetrock. Fill the joist cavities with rock wool. Make sure there is a 1/4" gap all the way around the ceiling that gets caulked with acoustical sealant. That creates a large, high mass diaphragmatic absorber that will minimize noise transmission upstairs. Also, any penetrations, e.g. lights need to be sealed as well.

For the framed wall, I have had great success with stagger stud construction - 2X4 studs staggered on a 2X6 plate. Use the same dual-layer sheetrock, resilient clips and 1/4" gap as the ceiling.

Have the electrician pull in at least one 20A (preferably 2) dedicated circuits and 2 quad boxes with medical-grade outlets (4-Leviton 8300 series ~$12 each) and add a whole house surge suppressor (your electrician will have a recommendation - budget ~$200 + labor). The total bill for that will be less than an aftermarket device and it will work better.

Carpet and pad are entirely up to you. I tend to favor a commercial grade carpet on a heavy pad to handle the intended traffic. 

Room treatment will make a huge difference. Budget for 6 or 8 2X4 ft 2" fiberglass panels, a couple bass traps and 9 2X2 ft 2" ceiling panels. Actual placement will vary depending on the final room layout . 

Below is my current home theatre / music room incorporating all the elements discussed. The in-wall JBLs, subs, matching surrounds and overheads required substantial active eq to get the sound I wanted, but due to the multi-use nature of the room, I didn't want to give up floor space for speakers. The piano key assemblage on the far wall is a combination absorber/diffuser and has worked very well. You can also see 3 of the 9 ceiling panels. I am very pleased with their performance as well. Bass traps are in the corners behind the seating. All gear except the projector and 110" screen is in a ventilated closet on the right.

The AV is powered by a Marantz 7015. An Adcom 555 powers the subs. I use an Amazon Echo Studio for background listening and to control lighting. 

Hope this gives you some ideas.

@jo1mtb Glad to read that you are finding the AMROC tool useful. The BOLT area calculation is pretty cool. Suggest that you also run the proposed room dimensions through Bob Gold’s tool before you finalize. It is more in-depth and provides a little more complete analysis.

Re: WAF and room treatment/bass absorption, I recently read about a clever idea that might work for you: build a full-width closet at one end of the room (maybe instead of the bookcases?) with louvered bi-fold doors and fill it with acoustic batting material. Sort of a large hidden bass trap. The louvered doors would allow bass waves to enter the chamber while acting as a primitive diffusor for the highs and the interior volume would be pretty large (2’ deep X 15’ wide x 10’ tall = 300 cubic feet), providing effective low frequency absorption and would be completely out of sight and relatively inexpensive compared to standard in-room absorption products.

@panzrwagn, I like your 'piano keys' approach on the wall.  A simple 'graphic' approach that makes what's usually bland into appropriate for a audio room....

I think I'll 'steal' that... ;)

Hi, Miller....I'm working towards a distributed sub system, think it'd best with my omnis...time will tell. *G*

Try contacting Matt Clott (spelling) from TAS.  His room is completely done up.  He may have some good suggestions for you and possibly some help in purchasing.

Happy Listening.

@jo1mtb I believe the room LxWxH you are proposing will work well. Check out ATS Acoustics for ideas. The rockwool material can likely be purchased locally and you can incorporate panels into the walls. As oposed to bass traps I placed diagonally in corners. worked well and saves dollars.