2X4's are cheap, so is insulation and drywall. Frame the wall sections on the floor, stand them up and nail them in.
Michael is right! The beam and the floor above deflects (compresses) and will cause cracking. The 2x4 or steel stud channel which will be attached to the underside of the beam is used as a guide. The studs are cut a 1/4 to 3/8 short and the drywall is only attached to the vertical studs. This allows the floor above float freely.
Having been a carpenter. I have the 97 UBC at my fingertips as that is what we used to use here. We may now be using the IBC I dont know as I have since moved on to a desk job. The nice thing about using steel studs for basement framing and a floating wall situation is they make a special track, the bottom section ramsets to the floor and the top section gets screwed into the studs. If I remember correctly there is a spring mechanism between the two plates. Having never used this piticular construction method. I have always framed in wood for basement construction except for steel soffits.
It is not about the fact that it is a non-bearing wall. The float is required because of expansive soils. It allows the concrete floor to move up and down without basement walls stressing the house above them.
A few pointers
Your canvas setup is probably the cheapest/best.temporary solution. 2"x4"x92"s are 3 dollars each,4'x8'x1/2"gypsum board is 12.95$ each.Acoustic insulation Roxul is about 30$ a bag of 10 butts.Then you should run 2"x6" for base and headers so you can stugger the 2"x4" on 16" on center.Tha way you create acousticaly dead wall with the insulation installed in the cavities of course.Don't forget a box of drywall screws and nails to put the studs together.I agree about the floating wall.Just cut short and install a layer of thick foam band(pink brand insulation sells rolls of that ) at the header between it and the beam.Make sure to drill pilot holes at the header larger than the screws diameter to allow for movement up/down direction.Add the cost of taping(plaster) and prime/paint and baseboards for a finish look.Lastly how temporary is that for a wall?
Prices are in Canadian dollars at Home Depot but close enough to USD.
Best of luck
Boy nothing goes by you!
Drywall screws are NOT self tapping althought they are designed to penetrate the thin steel studs due to very very sharp points.Self tapping screws are the ones with the drill point.I finf working with wood studs easier,prices are the same for wood or steel studs.Wood is stronger and preffered for residential construction.If not experienced working with steel studs then to be avoided because they are extremely sharp and harder to fasten screws on them as they tend to twist on you.In order to get a square cut on a channel you required to do two cuts ,one cut for separation and a second one to square as the edges buckle and curl up on first cut,making assemply difficult.