Tube Phono Stage


Hello Friends
I need a new phono stage, to replace the solid state phono stage, that I have now, whitch I find 50%, of my recordings, can at times, sound's a bit bright, don't get me wrong, we talking about great bass, and I have good ears, as I have a fantastic tube intergrated amp, my system will tell me what is a great sounding LP, and I mean great!!, but then, If I put a poor LP, on it will tell me, it is over produced, sounding a bit harsh, I have done a bit of research, I have came up with two, tube phono stages, within My budget, yeh  I know there are mega buck phono stage's, out there, and most don't come with cartridge loading, on the fly, or rca loading at the rear!!, the two I can come up with are as follows:
1. Decware ZP3, phono stage, with the ZMC1 "sut"
2. Tavish design, Adagio phono stage, with a "sut", built with a seperate power supply, with a price of around the same!!
Yes I want, to open a can of worms!!
What should I go for??
I look foward to your responce
Regards
David
daveyonthecoast
Add this to the can!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfpJYJv3ddo

Manley Chinook Features and Specifications
  • Vacuum Tube Complement: 6922 x 2 (gain stage) plus 6922 x2 (output stage). Any 6DJ8, 7308, ECC88 types may be used.
  • Unbalanced Input and Output connections via Manley Teflon® & Gold plated RCA jacks
  • Automatic Mute Timer: On initial power up output jacks are muted for approximately 45 seconds. Automatic mute circuit allows tubes to warm up and circuitry to settle. At power down, output jacks are immediately muted.
  • Input Termination Capacitance (MM/MC): 3-position user-selectable capacitor values of 50pF, 100pF, and 200pF yield resultant combinations of: 50, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300, and 350pF
  • Moving Magnet Input Impedance: 47k Ohms, fixed
  • Moving Coil (MC) Input Impedance: 5-position user-selectable resistor values of 50, 100, 200, 400, and 800 Ohms. There are 32 possible loading possibilities. See "more images" for a chart:
  • Gain: Internal DIP switches select 45dB or 60dB
  • Deviation from RIAA curve: Less than ± 0.5 dB from 20Hz to 20kHz at any gain setting. Typically less than ±1dB from 10Hz to 100kHz.
  • Distortion (THD+N) (47k Ohm Input Termination, 45dB gain, 1kHz sine, 0dBu output): Typical 0.010% THD+N, into 100k Ohm load, BW = 100Hz-22kHz
  • Distortion (THD+N) (47k Ohm Input Termination, 45dB gain, 1kHz sine, 0dBu output): Typical 0.030% THD+N, into 600 Ohm load, BW = 100Hz-22kHz
  • Dynamic Range (MM input, Gain set to 45db, 200 Ohm source): 91dB @ 1kHz, 0.1% THD+N, BW = 22Hz-22kHz
  • Dynamic Range (MM input, Gain set to 45db, 200 Ohm source): 107dB @ 1kHz, 1.0% THD+N, BW = 22Hz-22kHz
  • Noise Floor at 45dB gain setting with shorted input: -84 dBu, A-weighted
  • Noise Floor at 60dB gain setting with shorted input: -75 dBu, A-weighted
  • Maximum Input at 45dB gain setting with 20 Ohm Source Z @ 1kHz into 10 kOhm load: 250mV RMS = +34.5 dBu @ 1% THD+N BW=22Hz-22kHz
  • Maximum Input at 60dB gain setting with 20 Ohm Source Z @ 1kHz into 10 kOhm load: 40mV RMS = +34.2 dBu @ 1% THD+N BW=22Hz-22kHz
  • Maximum Output: +37dBu @ 1kHz, 1.5% THD+N into 100 kOhm load
  • Output Impedance: 91 Ohms
  • Minimum Recommended Load: 2500 Ohms
  • Internal Power Supply: Fully regulated linear B+, Heater, and control voltage rails.
  • Operating Mains Voltage: Units are built for original destination country's mains voltage: 100V, 120V, or 220-240VAC as indicated on the serial number badge.
  • Power Consumption in Standby mode: 1 Watt (8.0mA @ 120VAC)
  • Power Consumption: 42 Watts (345mA @ 120VAC)
  • Mains Voltage Frequency: 50~60Hz
  • Power Transformer: Toroid contruction for low radiation.
  • Mains Fuse for 100V-120V operation: 500mA SLO-BLO size 5mm x 20mm
  • Mains Fuse for 220V-240V operation: 250mA SLO-BLO size 5mm x 20mm
  • Standby Transformer Fuse for all voltage operation 100V-240V: 10mA, SLO-BLO, MDL type size 1/4" x 1 1/4"
  • Badge Lamp: LED illumination
  • Dimensions: W=19", L=11", H=3 1/2"
  • Shipping Weight: 15 Lbs.
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    Enjoy the worms and get the Tavish i know the designer its a wonderful product at a great price.

    EAR 834P the MM version
    Croft RIAA phono stage.
    Taking a look at both models, I would go for the Tavish. No need for another "box" like the Decware, since you need more gain.

    Looks like youll have to wait awhile until they get their inventory situation resolved first. Have you checked out the Parks Budgie?
    Another value tube phono. With a step up, under $800. The ONLY thing I don't care for with any of them is, they LOOK like DIY projects. When my spending is approaching 1k+, I want whatever to look appealing AND sound good.

    As mentioned by Yogiboy, if you can up your budget, the Manley Chinook is very nice.There WAS one yesterday listed just a few bucks more than the Tavish. I demoed a Chinook to compare with  my equally priced tubed phono. Very quiet and of course the tube magic that  few SS units can approach. If I didn't have a tubed phono already, with a budget up to 2K , the Chinook would be 
    on my list.

    Well executed modern tube based phono stages nor most any other tube application, does not result in any significant reduction in treble  or "roll off".

     I don't know the units you are interested in so I will leave it at that.

    There is an Allnic 1201, held in high esteem by it's owners, available on Audiogon right now. Asking price $2100.
    Despite the can opening, all suggested phono stages are certainly good "worms" here.

    I know I said I would leave it at that,..... but I took a look at the Tavish Design Adagio.  I was impressed with their use of 5751s.  That tube is a favorite of mine that I roll in many 12AX7 positions.  In general they are quiet and have great imaging ability.  It is pretty uncommon  to find 5751s in commercial applications for some reason outside of Conrad Johnson who have used 5751s for decades. 


    Frank Van Alstine used 5751's in his Dynaco PAS redesign he offered back in the 80's. A little less gain than the 12AX7, but quieter. I don't know if he still modifies that pre-amp, or makes a similar one of his own.  
    Has anyone owned or listened to Tube Nirvana Janis phono preamp? I have ordered one and will find out soon. Just curious if any one has had it. It costs $1300-1450 (mm-mc).

    Have I got this right - you don't want a revealing phono stage that tells you when you are listening to crapilly executed recordings, you want a tube phono stage because you think it will conceal those flaws?  Or did I somehow read your post incorrectly?
    I have the Parks Budgie M/M version. It uses two 6922's class A, with a dip switch for a bunch of cart. loading options, and I think it sounds great for what little it costs.
    I don't think it's ugly or DIY- ish. But that's in the eye of the beholder.

    I do have a question for all you guys.
    Do you really hear an easily heard, and I mean big improvement, in the sound in a phono amp going from current production Russian 6922 tubes to any of the vaunted new old stock 6922 tubes ? I don't want to pay around 90.00 hard earned $ a pair for NOS tubes and hear no big change !
    Thanks.

    I have a Parks Budgie, it was a big upgrade over an art dj. Changing the tubes out makes a noticeable difference in my system. I am running some older amperex tubes. I tried sovteks, jan phillips, and EH. I dont really like the EH in anything, but its not bad in the budgie.
    To throw in another suggestion, I have used a K&K Audio phono stage for I think 10 years. I have upgraded the turntable and never felt the need to improve the Phono stage. It comes In kit form, but Kevin arranged for mine to be built. He regularly comes up with upgrade kits at a very reasonable price, which make a real difference. I recommend you like at his website and perhaps speak to him, he is very helpful.
    OK Halifax, if I spring for a pair of NOS Amperex 6922's and I'm not impressed I'll be looking for you !! HA! HA !

    First of, you are assuming that all bad stuff which bothering you is coming from phono, which might or might not be so. It might come from the cartridge/arm/TT /preamp, cables etc., on the first place. I would try different (darker, better) cartridges and cables first. Then you’ll have to bring your perspective phono home and test it with your cartridge/arm/TT/pre/speakers etc., in your listening room)))). Unfortunately there is no substitute for that, the rest is just gambling. Moreover, to pic a really the best of the pack you’ll have to keep all of them for some time and switch from one to another back and forth until you finally hear the micro nuances which sets them a part. But even if you’ll be able to do all of the above, it is absolutely no guaranty that you’ll choose the right one)). Thats the name of the game.
    P.S. To me, the uglier the look of the chase the better, because I’m not wasting money onto B.S. aluminum boxes and LED lights. I prefer better performing parts inside. Only the sound matters. ;~)
    Thanks  guys,

    I never thought the sound of the OEM EH 6922 was bad. Nothing jumps out at me, brittle highs, weak bass etc. It's just I have no basis for comparison. FWIW, Keven Deal from up scale audio gave high marks for the new EH 6922, but he's in business to sell tubes. Shannon Parks is a real nice guy. He always answers my emails about the Budgie. I think I may be better served putting the money for NOS tubes towards adding to my record collection. I think sometimes we go nuts over the gear and forget about the music !
    That's what all this is about in the end.
    Cheers

    Anything in audio suggesting  'Tube Nirvana' better sound extraordinary. I haven't heard about any Janis product.  If you get one and can tear yourself away from it's rapturous sound , please let us know,
    Mechans,
    I'm ignorant on this. What is the Janis project ? I think they make super high end amps.
    Oops ! I thought it was project not product ! Are you saying you own a Janis amp?

    No I don't own any.  It is a cryo protocol with time spent at minus 80.  I understand from the Encyclopedia Britannica that this alters the atomic relation ship between metal molecules by creating extra long copper crystals. Copper is being used for illustration.  This arrangement minimizes the number of crystal interfaces  and thus better conductivity and speed of reaction, between the now minimized number molecules in any specified action.  It's benefits make it sound like a panacea, a cure for slow hand speed and any other problem one may have.

    Too tired to flesh this out .  If anyone can make an argument for his methods then expand and   please edit.  But please keep it factual.

    Good Night