limited outlets in wall and need for electricity

Hello Passaudio_Man,
I was just wondering how your BMI Shark IPLC was working out for you. I was contemplating getting one. Thanks for your input.

Digital and analog: never the twain should meet. The only way to do this is to have each one on their own line. Have your electrician put in another line for your digital. A Juice Bar, or better yet, a killer power conditioner (you know I favor Audio Magic, but there's oodles out there) for your amp, preamp in the other outlet and you should hear some great things. Best to start with the dedicated line for your digital and a Juice Bar or the like for your analog. That just may do your tympanics fine. If not; Talk to us. peace, warren

Alan, my power delivery/noise control setup is what it is. I do not "match" it to my componnts except for voltage/current requirements. Lak: yes, it was a cryo'ed Absolute--make that $60 vs a $600 power cord. Ouch.

If you don't want to run dedicated lines (or it's impractical) you can gang together multiple outlets and have a nice clean install with minimal fuss and very low cost. I had the same challenge as you're facing, I added three more outlets. Having room to plug in eight components behind your rack is handy and requires very little in the way of electrical knowledge. Is it as good as running multiple dedicated lines? I'm sure it's not but ripping up a bunch of walls to run new lines wasn't practical, this is a good compromise. Good luck, Jeff

It would probably be cheaper to call an electrician and have more outlets installed than buying a box full of outlets.......Use some decent outlets and 10ga solid core Romex .........Have another circuit pulled off the same phase as the current one in the room and use it for digital and use the first one for analog............

Remember gents....power cabling and line conditioning products are *very* system and component dependent. What may work incredibly well with some gear may not do so well with others. There are material interactions and power supply interactions going on here, with no set guidelines or carved-in-stone formulas. As always, try before you buy.

"I've tried the BMI Whale and Shark cords and found them to be easily bested by the Absolute Power Cord ($40)."

In my opinion they were bested by an Absolute *cryo'd* power cord, using a power delivery system that is very well isolated and superior at Psychicanimal's townhouse.

The VH Flavor 4 power cord is excellent and can compete with the big boys at a fraction of their cost.

I second Viggen on VenHaus's Power Box. This weekend Lak brought his Flavor 4 power cord (VH uses it in the Power Box) and it outperformed everything else I've had in my system. It is extremely quiet, detailed, with tight, clear, deep bass, clean wide soundstage and no audible bandwith limiting. With the parallel filtration option, VenHaus' box should be something really special...

I've tried the BMI Whale and Shark cords and found them to be easily bested by the Absolute Power Cord ($40). The BMI's are colored, bandwith limiting and bloat the bass. My reference cord has been a Jena Labs cryo'ed Tice PC3 with a Highwire Wirewrap tuning device attached.

I just ordered the brand new BMI Shark iplc.
A no holds barr passive line conditioner , protector and 10 grounded outlets with 3 dedicated lines. Plus the legendary Shark vi power cable hardwired.
Will give a full review upon burning.

There are some high quality powerstrips and powerbars as well as AC conditioners that are relatively passive so to not limit current in the market. Among the powerbars, Chris VH has a new hotbox that is getting some raves. I personally have good result with Furutech powerline splitters, but these need to be connected to the wall via a good powercord. I think these solutions when applied are equivacol to plugging the component directly into the wall except they will alter the sonic characteristics just a bit. You might want to keep the poweramp separate from the powerbar though. I keep the amp on the bar since its only 25wpc.