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Monoblock setup inquiry

Hey, 

So I'm somewhat of a newbie, but I've taken the plunge down the rabbit hole and have almost completed my system.  I'm running source(mix of vinyl and tidal)--> DAC/Phono--> Freya+--> Aegir--> Kef R3.  Currently I'm running one Aegir which is slightly underpowered for the R3's, but I have another Aegir on the way and I'm planning to run them as mono blocks. 

I've done quite a bit of research on how to set them up and can't seem to find a straightforward answer.  It seems that there's a couple different methods..Horizontal vs. vertical and bi-amping vs bi wiring.  To be honest I think I'd be ok with the simplest setup.  I'd like to dedicate one amp to Right channel and one to the left, and bi-wire if it will improve performance.  

So I have a couple questions..

1. From Pre-amp to amp do I simply connect 1 single Rca from Right output into R input on the amp to the right channel and same for the left? Or should I use both red and white cables to the Amp for the right and both for amp to left channel as my preamp has 2 RCA outs(a total of 4 connects 2 white 2 red)?
(Ive included a link with pics of amp preamp and speakers for clarity)

2. I understand that If I want to use the amps as simple mono blocks I should connect speaker wires to the top 2 red terminals on each amp and connect to speaker, but I'm wondering will I see any improvement if I chose to bi-wire the speakers? Are these amps even capable of bi-wiring? it seems that the outputs on the amp don't distinguish between HF or LF output? does that matter? 

3. And if I do bi-wire should I use a different set of speaker cables that have good performance with HF and a set that has good performance with LF? or will I still see improvement if I use 4 of the same cables?

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/4jbmr5T
glaspmart
glaspmart OP
4 posts
 
@yogiboy  Thanks, that link helps a lot.

@oddiofyl the specs for the Aegir give it 80W at 8 ohm when used as mono.  Do you know how that will be different if I vertically bi-amp? Would it be correct to assume 40W for HF and LF for each speaker?

I am leaning towards vertically bi amping as I think I will see more benefit with separating High and low frequencies rather than just throwing more power at the speakers.  I typically don't push them too hard and listen at reasonable volumes.  Although I could be wrong as I have no real world experience with this and am going solely based off what I've gleaned from various discussions on this forum related to this topic.  I am however all ears if you want to explain your position any further..
yogiboy's avatar
yogiboy
5,464 posts
 
Don’t forget to unlink the HF and LF on the Kefs before you hook everything up.  
glaspmart OP
4 posts
 
@cal3713 thanks. I probably will try some different combos to see how the system responds.  Will report back eventually

@yogiboy definitely will unlink the HF and LF posts.  My preamp actually has paired outputs (2 2 red and 2 white connection ports) which I believe are both active at all times(I could be wrong).  My plan is to use 2 red RCA cable to the right channel amp and 2 white to the left channel amp, if that doesn't work then ill go with Y-adapters. 

@millercarbon Why do you suggest integrated? I was under the impression that separate components are better..


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oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 

yogiboy3,539 posts10-18-2020 6:58amTake a look at this, it should show you how to bi-amp. You don't bi-wire if you are bi-amping your speakers!
http://av2day.com/2014/05/bi-amping-vertical-vs-horizontal/
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

You know it's funny my experience, everytime, not some of the time EVERYTIME. Horizontal vs Vertical. 

Horizontal works much better. WHY? I like valves(tubes) in the pre amp position and the monitor (mids and highs) position. 

I don't like using valves to reproduce (most) of the bass. When I get a valve that does GREAT bass, there is always something missing, in the mids or highs. I quit trying and came up with a solution about 25 years or so ago..

300-500 hz down I like SS, with DSP and Servo below 80 or so.
With Silver wire / Teflon covers.

The mids (tubes) I drives with SC copper/tungsten, wrapped with pure 99.9999% silver wire (Mexican silver manufactured in Israel) .01, 3 wraps per inch. for a 10" run, NO INSULATION. They are in wooden enclosures with 10" turret boards. Up to 12 different combinations per turret, board..
I just settled on the copper/tungsten/silver combo.. for the mids.

Just the opposite of the way most folks use copper and silver cable...

Because of that combo, there is not  a timing issue like SS over SS driven horizontal. BUT TRUE Tube bliss and SS BASS baby...BOOM BOOM in the ROOM ROOM...

In the information he (the reviewer) spent little time as to WHY vertical was better in his opinion. Honestly, I don't think they knew. When I read a cable he just happened to have laying around, made it sound "acceptable", I kinda knew, something was up..

A good cable is a good cable.. or it's bad..Especially doing the testing he was doing... You want a generic cable, with a know signature.
Copper, Silver. Alu, or clads of any of the aforementioned. DON'T mix the cables, the mixture of cable compositions, is pure "TWEAK".
Not good for testing at all...BUT great for the finishing touches..

Enjoy in any case.

Regards
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