Well Tempered Simplex arm and wiring

Wish I could help you on that one, but don't know of anyone who makes that connector.....Oh baby, if you are successful at making a WT arm, keep us posted as how it turns out.

Very nice. Are you getting similar or better performance from your clones versus the original?

I have the WT Amadeus Mk.II, turntable and absolutely love it. Some prominent dealers have attested that this table easily outperforms much more expensive VPI designs.

If you are talking about the  Amadeus Mk.II, I use a Soundsmith Boheme. Basically a high output MI cartridge. Whether it's the best is debatable, but none the less a good match with the WT arm. Very smooth sounding with little in coloration.

Hi gvoth, The cup diameter is 2-1/16 across. Cup height is 3-3/8" Top of cup to inside deepest (concave) id 1-1/2 inches deep. inside of cup is like a test tube, bottom outside of cup is flat bottom. This makes cup thick on bottom side. Visible part of cup above plinth can vary. it is adjustable in the plinth via a set screw to secure in the hole in the plinth. It is designed this way so as to vary the depth of the silicone level for the golf ball to adjust the amount of damping of the arm. I've never rotated the squash balls as they seem to hold their shape quite well, although an occasional rotation wouldn't hurt.

gvoth. I will get back to you in a few days. I am out of town away from my system for a while.

Just thought of something. The gallows post that supports the arm is, I believe, 6 to 7 inches in length. It too goes into a hole in the base near the cup. It is adjustable in height with a set screw so as to adjust height of arm to adjust VTA and rake angle. I  can give you exact length when I get home.

The silver cap is either aluminum or metal, not sure. It has a silver paint coat on it. The caps overall depth is 1 inch. The upper part of the cap is 1/2 inch, the part that holds the arm, and the lower part is 1/2 inch. The cap is approx. same dimension as a golf ball. Golf ball is cut in half. The bottom part of cap is flat to fit cut golf ball. top portion of cap is curved, only for cosmetic reasons I presume. What you see at top of cap is not a set screw. It is just a hole which exposes a small portion of tonearm. Tonearm is just a tiny bit smaller than 1/4 inch in diameter. I would have to remove the arm to get an exact measurement. Would rather not do that for set up reasons as I have arm dialed in for my cartridge.

I forgot to mention after you have looped the fish line around the collar, you have to twist the collar counter clockwise two times to get anti skate control. I believe this has to be done to make the azimuth control function correctly. This control makes the arm tip in either direction. You can tip the arm approx. 45 degrees either way. Of course you would never put that much azimuth correction to your cartridge, but it shows you just how much control you actually have.

The small horizontal tube goes all the way thru the cap. Fish line is fed thru tube. It is then knotted and slipped back into the tube. The fish line is looped a couple of times around the aluminum machined collar that fits on the horizontal part of the gallows post. The twists I mentioned give the arm anti-skate compensation. The beauty part of this is when you rotate the machined collar back or forth by your fingers, you get a wide range of azimuth control in either direction. And you can do this on the fly to dial in perfectly. This is one of the most ingenious azimuth adjustors I have ever seen. I believe the end of the arm tube is flattened ever so slightly and the cartridge mount sets on it with one set screw. You can adjust zenith by loosening set screw and moving the cartridge mount either way. Mine came preset by factory and they say to leave it at the angle it is set at, although you can adjust it if you have to. I do not know what the factory angle of degrees it is set at. Would love to see the pics. Keep me posted.... Tim