Replacing generic RECEPTACLES

I know for a fact i that hear a difference with my upgraded Shunyata King Cobra CX PC for my ARC Ref 6 compared to the stock PC. Same goes with my Shunyata Sigma PC for my Krell FPB 600 and my Shunyata Sigma Digital PC Rega Isis CDP. Same goes for my StraightWire Crescendo ICs and speaker cable. I hear a big difference even from the lower end StraightWire Virtuso which i upgraded to Crescendo all the way around ...So i really think unless you try some higher end PCs and ICs and speaker cable you should not say that it is a waste of money and dont have any value of money. Our money im sure is just as important to us as to you. So i wall say once again if u never tried it you cant give an opinion one way or the other. 

Yaysayers: Willing to spend money and experiment with different aftermarket items to see if they can improve the sound of their systems. Usually have high resolution systems that can reveal the differences (good or bad) that a tweek might bring. They will take the time to carefully listen and decide if there is an improvement in the sound, just a difference in the sound or no effect at all. It takes time & effort to do and is not for everyone.

Naysayers: Not willing to spend the money, because there is no need, as the end result is already known to them. It can't possibly make a difference, so why bother. Nays like to argue with the Yays even after the Yays have actually done the experiment! They bring up expectation bias or a placebo effect or make negative remarks like: "Makes an audible difference" someone posted, no it doesn't . It can't , there is no logical reason for an outlet to upgrade sound…same goes for power cables" or " You have hundreds of fat of copper in your home and you think changing the last three feet of that is going to make a difference at what comes out of your speakers" or " Why waste more money on something that anyone really intelligent and logical would discern as a "gimmick." or " Yes...my mind is made up...because, among other attributes, I am intelligent and smart." or " Yaysayers seem to have no concept of the value of money and the value of products."

Now, if you are not interested in getting the best performance from your system, why are you participating in these forums? Is it to make fun of Yays? Is it because you are too cheap to spend money & time to experiment? Or, is it that you just need to be right? STOP insulting those of us that have taken the time & effort to improve and appreciate our systems.

@dill.  My posts shouldn't be taken as an insult...just a difference of opinion.  But....if the shoe fits....

@ Cleeds-Just quoting NEMA. I admit I haven't disassembled a receptacle. Never saw the need. 

Scratching my head, Why does anyone think that they need a 20A dedicated circuit for a CDP? I see the purpose for using a better outlet receptacle, as a better tighter connection and grip, is always a plus, but I see no purpose in having a dedicated 20A circuit for a CD player and no players that I know of that comes with, or requires a 20A cord. It would surprise me if any CDP or combination DAC and transport pulled more than 5 amps and there are very few power amps that actually require a 20A circuit and have or require a 20A cord. In fact lower amp equipment should not be used in high amp circuits. If something fails, something might burn before the breaker trips.
I have built and wired a number of houses and garages all to UBC and NEC code and can tell you - both 15A and 20A residential circuits are commonly wired with the same 12/2 w/ground Romex wire.....just sayn...Jim

@dill  I couldnt have said that better myself... Well done.. 

Why does anyone think that they need a 20A dedicated circuit for a CDP?

How bout planning for the future? Adding more components, a server, subwoofer, whatever.

jhills...I do not a dedicated line for my CDP but i did buy 3 Furutech GTX-d r receptacles. 2 of them will be used for my Krell FPB 600 amp and ARC Ref 6 preamp... The other one i wanted to put on a dedicated 20A line for my CDP . Can the Furutech GTX-d r be wired to a 15A dedicated line? I thought they were 20A receptacles. 

Forgot to mention the 2 Furutechs will be on a dedicated 20A line for my Amp and preamp. 

I didnt know the Furutechs GTX - d r could be wired to a 15A circuit.. Thats why i was going to use a 20A line...Well i will now use a 15A dedicated line for my CDP. I thought i had no choice but to use a 20A line with the furutech. 

@elizabeth ...Thanks Elizabeth but i got a really great deal on the Oyaide  WPC - Z2 carbon fiber double face plate and the WPC-Z single ...I will try them out. Let you know the results as soon as i can.. 

@lowrider57  ....Exactly ....So also would a 20A dedicated line be ok for a CPD? Regardless if it needs it or not.. 

typo... CDP ...

@elizabeth ....Got it Elizabeth.. So what was all the hay say crap about why am i putting in a 20A dedicated circuit for my CDP. 

I made a wall plate by gluing together Benz Rosewood cartridge bodies.....

no seriously.... the Hospital grade Hubble are excellent and the PS Audio Power Ports $50 ish then the more exotic stuff after that...

in our litigious society, 20 A on 15 amp Line not advised.... unless well labeled...

@tomic601....Who is talking about a 20A on a 15A Line?

@ Elizabeth. Kudos to you for disassembling a receptacle. I used to do this for a living and never contemplated doing that. I think the receptacle you described is a little over the top, but glad you like them. In a high current draw situation, if the connector, being the cord in this case, doesn't generate any heat at the connection,  you're good. As I said earlier, a lot of small tweaks put together, can and does make a difference. My view is, as I said, you have diminishing returns after a while. I'll have to say, you're really getting down to the nitty gritty. I guess if you know you have done everything you can to improve your sound, it's very comforting. 

tattooedtrackman
My point is: If you already have a 15A service with receptacles where you need them and there is not already  a host of other devices plugged into that circuit - that circuit would be most adequate for your cdp and possible other devices. I can understand upgrading the receptacles and to a point, power cords, but installing a new 20A circuit for a CDP or even a CDP and one or two other components, is nonsensical....my professional opinion...Jim

I should make clear on my previous statement - that is if your home is relatively modern with a good electrical system, or is an older home with a professionally upgraded electrical system. I can see the value in having a dedicated 20A circuit for your high draw power amps and large powered subs, however....Jim

@audiosens The wall plate is a tweak I've always thought was just an appearance thing. 

jhills.... So you are saying that a CDP does not need to be on a dedicated circuit ? And that just changing the receptacle to an audio grade is good enough? 

I always thought and heard that a CDP and all digital components would be better off on a dedicated circuit..

@everyone.....How many of you that have a high resolution CDP have it on a dedicated circuit?

jhills

In fact lower amp equipment should not be used in high amp circuits. If something fails, something might burn before the breaker trips.

That's silly - properly installed 15A and 20A lines are equally safe. In each case, the breaker's function is to protect the line itself, not the device connected to it. Components have their own fuse or breaker for that purpose. There is no hazard in connecting a low-amperage device to a 20A line.

@tattooedtrackman As long as there is already a circuit available where you need it and that circuit doesn't have other  devices or appliances plugged into it, why create another circuit. Every circuit in your house is tied into the same ground and same neutral bars, adding another circuit isn't going to change that (for that you would have to add a complete new service and that would be a bit expensive) and you do not need a 20A circuit to run a CDP. Yes you can install a 20A receptacle where you need it, for the sake of getting a much better receptacle (no one will throw you in jail) and your CDP and other components will plug into it....Jim

@jhills. Thanks Jim.....So i guess i really dont have to add a dedicated 15A line for the CDP. I will just change the receptacle. 

@elizabeth ....My digital equipment is on the same 20A line...     Do you mean also that it is a dedicated 20A line? I understand that it is also hooked up to a seperate power conditioner. Also you suggested ferrite clamps , i dont they would be large enough to put on my Shunyata Sigma digital AC cord which is 8 awg. . And also that it is a digital ac cord anyway i really might not even need the ferrite clamp. 

@elizabeth .... Elizabeth how do you like the PS Audio P600 ? Do you have anything else hooked up to it besides a CDP? 

@tattooedtrackman,
No, u don't need to install a 20A line for a CDP. But since your 15A AC line is native to your house, I'll bet there are other wall outlets with devices or appliances tied into that circuit. IOW, it probably is a shared line with noise being introduced from the other devices.

 And since u now have a 20A Furutech duplex receptacle, it makes sense to run a new 12 gauge line with new breaker. As Elizabeth explained so well, your CDP doesn't care if the circuit is 15 or 20 amps, it only draws the amount of current needed. 
But, in the future if you add more components to your system, you may wish you had installed a 20 amp circuit.

When i had construction done to my 2 bed rooms upstairs in my home back in 2009 , I wanted one big huge room with raised ceiling and 3 sky lights with 2 dormers. New hardwood tongue and groove floor. Fuji split zone AC on wall. Hard wood tongue and groove floor. 2 ceiling fans. 3 ceiling high hat flood lights with dimmer switches. Hard wired smoke detector. And about 12  15 A receptacles. Upgraded from 115v to 220v for home with new breaker box and breakers. Thats why i thought of running a dedicated 15A or 20A line for my CPD. This work was all done before i had any thoughts of putting together my stereo system. Since then i have only added the dedicated 20A circuit double gang box for my Krell FPB 600 and ARC Ref 6 . 

Audio Advisor has excellent ones builtvery solid 
bronze for $25,or gold plated Copper $50 
both high on conductivity index ,and nightandday betterthen Any 
crap your house comes with,as well as better then anyhospital grade which is brass, bronze has 3x better conductivity ,Copper 4x , Just lookup resistance index online .

Did u see my post above stating that the line for your CDP is most likely shared?
If so, then you need to run a dedicated line.

@lowrider57...... Yes i did ...All true... thanks....

@elizabeth Just checked the the line with the CDP receptacle. It is not on the same line as the ceiling fans. In fact there are only about 3 other receptacles on that line that is connected to my CDP. So i think i will be ok with just installing the furutech without adding the dedicated line . What do you think? Unless i want a 20A dedicated line for the future. But i dont need it right now. 

Tattoo... the CDP line needs to be on the same leg of the service panel as your 20A dedicated line, (same phase).
 Also there should not be any appliances on that shared line that will add noise to your audio hookup.

@lowrider57  Not sure i know what you mean by needs to be on the same leg of the service panel as my 20A dedicated line, same phase. And what do you mean by appliances? blender ? microwave? toaster? Im not trying to be funny but i have a dedicated listening room. Its not in my kitchen. 

@elizabeth ...... Elizabeth  Thank you for the last 2 replies to me.  I still really dont understand what you are talking about. And i appreciate your time writing all that. I will have my electrician in stall a 20A dedicated line for my Furutech GTX-d r for my CDP so i know for sure there is nothing else on that line. also that way if and when do buy a Shunyata power conditioner for my CDP i can use the 20A line too. 

The Furutech GTX -d Rhodium is the best duplex you can get and to complement it, install the Furutech FI-09 Rhodium IEC on your equipment. BIG improvement especially for the cost of admission.

tecnik........ I can not do the Furutech FI-09 Rhodium IECs as i am using Shunyata King Cobra and Sigmas. 

Not sure i know what you mean by needs to be on the same leg of the service panel as my 20A dedicated line, same phase. And what do you mean by appliances? blender ? microwave? toaster? Im not trying to be funny but i have a dedicated listening room. Its not in my kitchen.

The wiring in a residence is called split-phase and is divided into 2 legs. On the service panel you will see Leg A and Leg B. The goal in the panel is to even out the load, half the current draw on A and half on B. If you wire a refrigerator on A, then a second high current appliance such as air conditioning should be wired to B.

Simply put, In an audio system, we want all the components on the same leg so there is minimal noise from other devices wired into the panel. 
And yes, I am talking about toaster, blender, refrigerator; all adding noise and interference down the AC line and contaminating the other circuits.
Electricians are only concerned with balancing the current draw in the house, so roughly half from Leg A and half from Leg B. And they commonly will daisy chain several AC outlets onto the same breaker. The kitchen toaster outlet may be combined with the lights in your living room.

If some of your audio system is wired to A and some to B, there is more risk of noise from the circuits in the other leg of the panel getting into your audio lines.

A test for a shared line is to turn off the breaker to your CDP and see what other outlets in your house lose power.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/13105/are-both-legs-of-a-homes-power-supply-equally-used

@lowrider57 ........ I understand what you are talking about now.... You explained it very well.. And yes the CDP is on the same leg as my dedicated 20A line for my amp and preamp. I understand them now going on the same leg but like you mentioned both legs should be evened out. Lets say leg A has the Refrigerator, Jacuzzi, AC , TV.Microwave, and leg B has a tanning bed , big screen tv, and 2 ACs. Now both legs have appliances , so explain to me what that matters then. I understand u want to keep all the audio components on the same leg but if there are appliances on both legs why would it matter. Curious....