05pm"B&W or Bowers and Wilkins, whatever they call themselves today makes fine loudspeakers found at Best buy. I've failed to see Wilson, Magico, Marten, Estelon, or MBL there for sale"........this post was posted to start a disruptive argument amoung members nothing more ,which is typical of the original poster....i think we've had enough of his nonsense
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mijostyn5,067 I use to have 2 Martin Logan Balancedforce 210 subs that did okay with my system. They utilize Balancedforce better than any other company. As good as there subs were, I felt even with their microphone setup, it overloaded the bass with the Wilson Audio Maxx 2’s. As you know with the Wilson Audio Maxx 2, they really don’t need a subwoofer as the speaker can go down to 22hz. I’ve owned a lot of high end subs over the year but for the setup I was looking for, I went with the JL because I wanted the subs to compliment the speakers without overwhelming them. Easy to do with subs. Most systems today probably need subs but mine really doesn’t. My crossover is set for 35 and below hence the reason for the Wilson Crossover. As for the the preamp is concerned, I have that covered utilizing the Cary Audio SLP-05 with the Ultimate Upgrade, Cardis wiring and tube rolling. I’ve utilized quite a bit of top of the line Monoblock and stereo amplifiers and the unit that has stood the test of time is the preamp:-) Thanks for the compliment though. The equipment you have mentioned are incredible by the way. |
pimbo12 posts I will stack up any day my JL Audio 6W3 subwoofers, my JL Audio 8W7, or even Boston Acoustic Pro Series 8 or 10” subwoofers to Dynaudio top of the line subs. Been there and done that. I competed in IASCA Car Audio competition for SQ (Sound Quality) for several decades. I do like Dynaudio front stage 3 way speakers but I don’t care for their subs. My source that I have competed in the past are Alpine 7909, 7990, 9990 decks, Alpine 1310, Nakamichi CD700, Clarion DRX9255, DRZ9255, McIntosh MX5000, MX4000, MX406, Sony CDX-C90, etc. I learned from some of the best in the business like Richard Clark :-) |
People always choose only the most popular brand of subs which are not really the best I'm wondering why they are not really the best, Is it due to one of these; better price, better advertising, better distribution, or simply a better product. One could ask why are they rejected. I hope it's not exclusivity and bragging rights? There must be a reason I'm not understanding. Is anyone who purchases a popular model judged as inferior? |
I have owned a pair of S510 and now a pair of fathom113v2. I had no problems with the sound or build quality of the RELs. They have the benefit of speaker level inputs for those of us without two line outs. They are easy to lift using their handles. With the help of an a remote acoustician, I was was able to well integrate and flatten the frequency response up to 60Hz where there was a 10db node that could not be solved because it was vertical/axial coming from the main speakers. The acoustician recommended a JL CR1 crossover, so I bought the subs along with it. I had immediate buyers remorse because they are really expensive for me. The package arrived a few weeks ago, and I have just used factory recommended settings. The fathoms are much more feature rich than the S series, including auto turn-on, auto-equalization, a low frequency filter centered about 20Hz as well as a phase knob. They come with covers that I also use. I have only set it at the recommended 80Hz, set the 20Hz filter to -6db or so zeroed everything else. The CR1 eliminated the 60Hz issue. Nothing is particularly optimized, but bass is tighter with better resolution. The bass integration with the horn section of my JBLs is now better than with JBLs without subs, which has been an issue since I first bought the speakers. I would be happy with either brand, it is just that the JL offers a relative abundance of adjustability and I will not have to consider subs again. |
@pedroeb -- People always choose only the most popular brand of subs which are not really the best What's really rejected is that which doesn't fit the narrative, and with subs that's anything that veers away from the smaller cube-sized, rather inefficient box and a, yes, typically well-known brand. I wouldn't deem anyone buying a pair of JL Audio, REL or SVS subs "inferior," I'm sure very good results can be had carefully implementing them in one's setup, but it's the other way 'round; those who go in different directions with (to audiophilia) lesser known brands like PSA, JTR, DSL, Funk Audio, DIY solutions and others usually aren't given a dime of attention from the audiophile community, and if they ever so rarely are it often comes down to perplexed or derogatory comments that boil down to "ridiculous size," "overkill," "only useful for Home Theater," "are you trying to bring down the house?" and such. With that in mind try giving the impression that this "apocryphal" segment of lesser known brands and (god forbid) deviating solutions actually surpasses what's more readily accepted in audiophile circles, and any further interest has effectively fallen by the wayside. |
What is for real is despite JL being made in the US....I see reports on here sharing shoddy support and some multiple failures but none for REL? Call it midfi or not - REL subs work and while some may complain about blowing 4K on a sub made in China, everything else people pretty much everyday is made in China so........*shrug*😂 |
I'll go for a better product with less failures as possible and easy customer support. Some are super "Made in USA" only despite the stuff breaking down and having difficult customer support which is baffling. The sub could be made by a Martian in Nepal for all I care long as it works well. |
I’m lately going more and more to the USA made products especially for premium products. I have a JL F113 and it “was” awesome. It’s a V1 and there is a $450 charge to fix anything period and send it back no matter what the issue is. They will but in V2 parts which is awesome. It’s got a buzz. It’s 220v cause I bought in Shanghai probably 10 years ago so I feel the 450 to update and fix it is very reasonable. I’ve been putting it off for 2 years cause I’m lazy and busy. I would say if the cost is comparable I would go JL all day long. I’ve heard Rel a few times at dealers. They sounded really good just as the JL. I’m sure they are comparable but my money will go with the American company as long as the cost is comparable along with SQ. |
I have not had an opportunity to own the REL sub however I have maintained Velodyne DD18's as well as the JL Audio Fathom F212 V2. The JL is a much quicker response sub due to the smaller driver however the DD18 is no slouch. Both excellent subs that I have incorporated in two seperate systems however I sway towards the JL. Using the JL with a pair of JBL Array 1400's which blend perfectly. |
