Need guidance on isolation devices

I'm looking at venturing into isolation devices for my stereo. I have none, and I've been reading quite a bit, but as usual when I first get into these matters I'm somewhat confused and would appreciate guidance from experienced users.

My system is not the highest resolution, and is in transition: Rotel CD player, Rotel preamp, McIntosh MC275 (tubes). The system is in front of the speakers, about 10 feet away.

I'm thinking of building isolation platforms sitting on air (bike tubes), and sand-filled boxes. Been reading about these, about tiptoes, and about heavy weights on devices such as cdps.

Which of the above, or combinations, are better suited for each component I own?

On which component should I focus first? Where would you expect me to perceive the largest improvement in sound?

Thanks in advance!
Since you cannot afford a clean room electron microscope isolation table (+$5K, each), the bike/sand is a good place to start. Putting spikes on the corners should be done. After that its tweak, tweak until you find the improvement something that can be heard. I do suggest you get the system behind the speakers and put up a short absorbing screen around the stuff. as high as the top of the equipment. Kind a like 'circle the wagons. That should head off the typical acoustical vibrations that the speakers will set off in the room. The sand box will help prevent the equipment shaking. That is one reason to put turntables in another room, if possible. You would be surprised not doing so creates very difficult isolation issues in a room. Enjoy!
I have good experiences with products from Herbie's Audio Labs. I like their Tenderfoot, Iso-cup, and high-end decoupling base.

They have increased the resolution on my system, and gotten rid of occasional harsh tones.
Scratch the "tiptoes" and find a brass version.The originals are not expensive,but will contribute some brightness.
I'm a firm believer in "the wood effect" and the brass footers compliment this approach.Mass is important,when considering the footers.
A product called--unfortunately--Dead Balls from Acoustic Dreams--google the name--works well on front end gear.

I have used them vs many others and they really work; I loaned a set out to a friend and they had no lack of positives to offer. Brian at Xtreme AV sells them w/30 day guarantee
I have not tried cones spikes or wood buti would try a bunch of the herbie's stuff as well. Ive had very positive expereinces, it easy and steve offers a money back plan...

the isol pads are also a cheap good place to start
Thanks for the input!

I must admit, however, I'm probably not being able to understand some leads.

Been looking at Herbie's products and will probably try out something. Dead Balls seem to fall in the same camp of cones + sorbothane kind of products.

Now what about air cushioning, sand boxes, and/or weights on top of components? Scrap the idea? If not, which component first?

Thanks again!
Would like to know what your system sits on currently?

The general rule is stereo components should sit on something very firm, heavy and solid for isolation from vibrations transmitted via floor, walls, etc.

All my components. including phono sit on a firm, standard issue, very heavy solid oak wood table that I bought in a used furniture store for $30 a few years back. The sound is clean and rock solid at all volumes. I've never detected any need to isolate any further.

Definitely avoid flimsy "audio" stands (Bush, O'Sullivan, etc.)commonly sold in retail outlets like Best Buy or Sears .
Start at the source.
Source components benefit from isolation the most in my opinion but everything does. Air bladders (inner tubes) work well but tend to leak slowly. If you go this route find three of the smallest ones you can find and allow access to the schrader valves so you can periodically level the component. It tends to become a pain in the a** so perhaps this method should be used on components less dependent on being level like your Mac and pre. Don't overfill them. The more compliant the better the isolation. Sand boxes also can be an ear opener. Using a thick glass plate on the sand after sifting it allows better coupling to the component. Use wood or tiptoes (I prefer stainless steel or even better crystal pyramids as brass tends to smear fine imaging YMMV) or even the ball bearing in a cup type (which adds side to side isolation)to drain the resonances and vibration away I've found a mixture of lead shot and sand sounds more articulate but handling lead isn't very conducive to safety so if this is where you head I'd seal around the glass with silicone. As far as the weight on top of the component listen for yourself. it may improve focus but my experience has usually shown a reduction of both air and decay of the notes.
Defintiey Herbies- isocup/balls, Big Fat Dots, etc. all work miracles
I'd suggest reading Art Dudley's article in the June Stereophile. Isolation devices can affect the sound but not always in a beneficial way.
bright star audio makes the best at the best price
forgot. I also have had good results with bright star isonodes. They are another safe way to get your feet wet in this area for less then 30 bucks. They sound different then the herbie's stuff. But different is not better or worse...
Thank you all indeed! This is very helpful.

So source first. Will look into all these options, but the tips give me a great starting point.

Mapman: currently the system sits on an Ikea MDF piece. Not good, I know. The rack is the first thing I know for fact I need to build, and I believe I've read enough about how it should be done. I'm asking about sand boxes and air bladders precisely because they would take a lot of room and if I find them "necessary" then I want to make sure I build enough room when I put the rack together. That's why I want to experiment with these first.

Should something else come to mind, please keep it coming!

Thanks again!!