Lightspeed Attenuator - Best Preamp Ever?


The question is a bit rhetorical. No preamp is the best ever, and much depends on system context. I am starting this thread beacuase there is a lot of info on this preamp in a Music First Audio Passive...thread, an Slagle AVC Modules...thread and wanted to be sure that information on this amazing product did not get lost in those threads.

I suspect that many folks may give this preamp a try at $450, direct from Australia, so I thought it would be good for current owners and future owners to have a place to describe their experience with this preamp.

It is a passive preamp that uses light LEDs, rather than mechanical contacts, to alter resistance and thereby attenuation of the source signal. It has been extremely hot in the DIY community, since the maker of this preamp provided gernerously provided information on how to make one. The trick is that while there are few parts, getting it done right, the matching of the parts is time consuming and tricky, and to boot, most of use would solder our fingers together if we tried. At $450, don't bother. It is cased in a small chassis that is fully shielded alloy, it gets it's RF sink earth via the interconnects. Vibration doesn't come into it as there is nothing to get vibrated as it's passive, even the active led's are immune as they are gas element, no filaments. The feet I attach are soft silicon/sorbethane compound anyway just in case.

This is not audio jewelry with bling, but solidly made and there is little room (if any) for audionervosa or tweaking.

So is this the best preamp ever? It might be if you have a single source (though you could use a switch box), your source is 2v or higher, your IC from pre-amp to amp is less than 2m to keep capaitance low, your amp is 5kohm input or higher (most any tube amp), and your amp is relatively sensitive (1v input sensitivity or lower v would be just right). In other words, within a passive friendly system (you do have to give this some thought), this is the finest passive preamp I have ever heard, and I have has many ranging form resistor-based to TVCs and AVCs.

In my system, with my equipment, I think it is the best I have heard passive or active, but I lean towards prefering preamp neutrality and transparency, without loosing musicality, dynamics, or the handling of low bass and highs.

If you own one, what are your impressions versus anything you have heard?

Is it the best ever? I suspect for some it may be, and to say that for a $450 product makes it stupidgood.
pubul57
Lacee hi, are you in the US also, just wondering if your wall wart was smp or linear?

Cheers George
@ Wisnon: I had the LSA on my Job 225 for a little while. I thought the input Z of the Job might be borderline but it wasn't the case at all. The LSA sounded lovely with the Job. Complex orchestral passages played at high volumes didn't sound too congested. Moving up to the Bent TAP-X autoformer freed it up even more. If you want to eliminate input/output Z issues all together, consider an AVC or TVC. I will say this, at no time with the LSA did I feel the need to change to another preamp. I happened to come across a Bent TAP-X (again), and loved the first one so much I bought it. In the end, I preferred the TAP-X just on musical tastes alone. Throw in the remote volume/balance control and it was a no-brainer for me.
Lacee: also if in doubt if your wall wart was linear or smp.
Try to find a portable AM radio and with it tuned off station low down on the dial frequency with the volume up go near to your powered up wall wart with it.
You will hear very clearling if it's smp as you get closer to it with the radio.

Cheers George
Thanks for the tips George, but with the TeraDak my wallwart days are over.
I don't care if my wallwart was linear or smp,What this does is amazing.You need to try one.

It cost me $60.00 Canadian, so yes I am from the Northern half of North America.

I've done some more listening and any edge that I felt was there has not shown up,but I should revisit the Graceland lp just to check and see if the sibilance is still there.
But my enjoyment with the pairing of the TeraDak/LSA is making me reluctant to go back to what I've just played.All I want to do is move on to the rest of my library and discover the pleasures anew.

The TerDak makes the LSA spring to life,it's like steroids for the LSA.

It's too bad anyone who has used the LSA with a wallwart, linear or not,and moved on didn't know about the TerDak alternative.They missed out on how good the LSA can sound when given a decent source of power.

For those who are thinking about adding a TerDak,don't scrimp on a cheap power cord just because this thing costs 60 bucks.
Perhaps my power cord is making more of what the TeraDak is doing for the lSA than a stock power cord would do.
As I've said I'm perfectly happy with the pairing and not the least bit ashamed using a power cord that cost almost 4 times what the LSA/TeraDak combo costs.

It's all about what works that matters to me,so call me insane, I won't mind because I am insanely happy with the sound improvements I've made to my system.

My old walwart cost about 25 bucks, no shipping, I bought it at a computer store.
Saving a few dollars and foresaking what the Teradak does isn't sane in my book.

Those saved dollars only waste thousands of dollars invested in music and gear when the system is compromised,which I feel any wallwart will be guilty of.
How is my battery pack comparing to these wal warts? I went with the battery pack because I thought it was better...

I'd prefer not to go to the teradak simply because the battery pack looks cleaner and I don't have to buy another powercord and I only have 2 components plugged into my ps audio quintet in different banks.

If the teradack is going to be an improvement over the battery pack, well of course I'll buy it, but it seems like you guys are comparing the teradack to the worst power supply (smp is the worst one, right?) and not the linear one. I read some comparisons between the linear power supply vs. the battery pack, and the battery pack supposedly sounded better...
I believe the Teradac power supply (http://www.ab-system.hk/index.php?route=product/product&path=73&product_id=64 ) is a great linear power supply. And at a good price.

But from the Lightspeed owners in the US and Canada that have said it's far better than the wall wart, we really need to know if it was an SMP wall wart, they were comparing to. It is very hard to tell the difference visually between an SMP or Linear wall wart. The portable AM radio trick is the easiest way to tell.

Cheers George
Maybe I missed it,but what are the sonic differences when one goes from an SMP to a linear wallwart?

If my wallwart was an SMP,and if most of the other North American wallwarts are SMP,then it's a no brainer to go for the TeraDak, because the improvement is well worth the little bit of extra pocket money.

If my wallwart was a linear one, then the TeraDak is still an improvement.

Just looking at the very thin and cheap wire that goes from the wall receptacle into the wallwart and the physical small size and most likely cheap construction of walwarts be they SMP or linear,compared to the TeraDak,there is quite a difference in build quality of the two, yet not much difference in price.
In fact some catelogue wallwarts that I researched from N.Am. charged way too much to process and ship.
Shipping charges from HK were 15 bucks.
So not much savings with a linear or SMP .

It would be nice to hear from someone who has compared a SWP, linear, battery and TeraDak so we can put this to rest.
George,you're the master, any of your fellow Aussies tried one of these yet?
Lacee hi, first off I'll explain the Lightspeed Attenuator consumes around 50mA max, "you could almost power it by rubbing two sticks together".
A 300mA wall wart will power 6 x Lightspeeds. So it's not a question of power, thicker wires or getting more current to the Lightspeed.
It noise, and smp wall warts are noisy little buggers, go near them with an AM portable radio and it will squeal like a stuffed pig.

If your wall wart is a linear one then it should be a close comparison to the Teradac (without hearing myself) because a battery is the closest to the perfect power for the Lightspeed, and not many people can hear much difference from battery to a linear wall wart.

However a smp wall wart is rubbish for the Lightspeed, I've even seen the difference on the test bench. These smp wall warts will be bettered by a Teradac and or battery by a long way.

Cheers George
fwiw: after some more hours of testing, I've confirmed to my satisfaction my initial observations.

First, the appearance of a difference in volume persists. The wallwart renders the LSA brighter and moves the stage forward, and I believe this is, in addition to increase in distortions, what I'm interpreting as a difference in loudness. Depending on one's system, I can see how someone could favor the wallwart. It seems livelier. YMMV.

However, with respect to transient response and transparency, the TeraDak is the clear and obvious winner IMO. My wallwart blurs transients and obscures the rhythmic qualities across all genres of music I tested: jazz, rock, folk, and classical. Choral work is more articulate.

Keep in mind that the deficiencies I note are relative to a side by side comparison with the TeraDak. Which is to say, I certainly didn't notice them in the 3 years that I've used the wallwart with LSA. (Or perhaps I noted them, but blamed other parts of my system?)

At any rate, in the end I'm with Lacee: my wallwart days are over. The question whether a linear wallwart is as good as the TeraDak is of theoretic interest to me, but I'll leave those questions for people like George to answer.

For $60 shipped, I see little reason to not hold such theoretical questions in abeyance and see for oneself.
I can't recall if I said this or not, but the LSA with the TeraDak is like it's been given steroids.
It's performance is enhanced,it's not about noise,I never noticed any noise from the LSA before.

It is about increased sound and clarity however,and more meat on the bones.

As much as George feels that there's not much need for fancy power supplies and power cords,until he tries that combination he is just as sceptical as the folks who don't put any faith in upgraded fuses, power cords or conditioning.

I get it.
Most designers feel they've built the perfect mousetrap and it's as good as it can get, and everything said to make it better is looked upon with a bit of doubt.

I've gotten similar response from amp manufacturers when I stated a fuse swap to a HiFi Supreme made for a richer experience.

It's got to be somewhat irritating when the folks in the cheap seats are making such claims of improved performance,especially when all folks like me can lay claim to are just personal opinions,albeit opinions based on hands on experience rather than speculation.We aren't smart enough to build such devices,and my hat is off to George and all the other talented people who do make all this great stuff,but nothing that I have ever listened to has ever been exempt to improvements somewhere in the chain.

Sometimes it costs the big bucks some times it can be cheap.
The TeraDak falls in the latter category,and I can't say if a linear power supply or a battery pack is as good or better than the TeraDak.

The point some of us are making is that we are so happy with the increased level of performance the TerDak makes that it's just pointless to experiment any further and that there isn't much to be saved in doing so and maybe more to be lost.

George no one is saying the LSA is inferior or defective.
I see I am not alone in stating that I was completely satisfied with the sound with the wallwart I was using.
If it was SMP or linear didn't matter to me,I thought and still think the LSA is the cleanest least coloured volume control I've used.
The TerDak just makes it even more so.

If the TeraDak involved altering the LSA or cost several times more money I never would have given it a second thought and would have listened to the LSA as I have been doing, and enjoying every minute of it.

If this was kept a deep dark secret,and George wasn't a decent fellow,he could have incorporated the TerrDak into his design and sold it for several hundred dollars more as a LSA MK11.
But George isn't like that,he let us know that this looked on paper to be another alternative to a wallwart that should work fine.
Maybe someday George will try one and report back.
As simple as it must be for George to assume that the TeraDak is almost overkill for the demands of the LSA,what I hear is more quality than quantity.

The power demands of anything in this hobby are fickle.
Some low power amps sound great in the right circumstances and sometimes there's a need for the big muscle amps.

But in my experience,everything can be crippled if not given the best power it can handle.
And providing the best power mostly means doing the things that shouldn't make a difference.
Hi Lacee, I like the Teradac, that's why I posted it up for Lightspeed owners to try, as we are always wanting to try out different things.

An smp wall wart will not give noise that you can hear, but it can be seen on the ocilloscope as very high frequency rubbish, and it gets through every thing in the system. What this does to the sound is anyones guess.

What I want to get down too is if the Teradac power supply was compared to a smp wall wart or linear. So far no one has been able to say without question.

Cheers George
Lacee and Banquo,
Come on guys, if you won't tell us, or find out, whether you were using an smp wall wart or linear, maybe you could tell us the brand and model number so we can look it up??

It's funny that I'm on the other side of the upgraded power supply debate on this one, because I upgrade all of my power supplies and power cords, but I just don't see how this teradak would be an upgrade over the battery pack. It just seems logical to me that if it's a linear power supply, and your power supply isn't introducing noise into your system, then you would'nt gain anything here.

George states "A 300mA wall wart will power 6 x Lightspeeds. So it's not a question of power, thicker wires or getting more current to the Lightspeed. ".

I have been thinking about buying a wall wart to back up my battery for those times when I forget to shut off my battery pack, now I'll get a terra dak and compare it to my battery pack. I must say though, I don't like the idea of buying another upgraded power cord for the terra dak but whatever.
B_limo: several posts ago, I already linked to the wall wart that I own. George speculated that it is an smp. I've searched and searched and there's no published info to confirm or deny. George suggests the AM radio test, but I'm not buying an AM radio just to do this test. To be blunt, I have little motivation, since the differences between my wall wart and the TeraDak are so clear. If, theoretically, there shouldn't (couldn't?) be much difference between linear power supplies, then the conclusion to draw is that I must own a smp wall wart. If someone wants a stronger argument then that, well, they can try it out for themselves--as you have suggested you will with your battery supply.

fyi: for my tests, I used a cheap hospital grade power cord. Whether one could do even better with a better cord, I'll leave that to those with deeper pockets than I to determine.
Not all linear power supplies are created equally. B_limo makes a good point as to the LSA not requiring a lot of current, and the LSA has it's own regulation, but any power supply can introduce noise into a system. If this Teradac somehow reduces the noise level then it should be quite apparent as Banquo indicates.
My bad Banquo, didn't see the link, didn'tknow you looked into it at all, let alone actually digging around a bit. I apologize. I'll check the link, but like I said, I'll probablyend up just buying the terradak to back up my battery pack and will report back.

George, two questions: does the lightspeed ever need to be recalibrated? It seems like my volume control may be adjusting in larger increments than before...

Question 2: is it okay to dress it up a bit? I was thinking about a small wooden case or having it professionally painted.
01-15-14:
B_limo: George, two questions: does the lightspeed ever need to be recalibrated? It seems like my volume control may be adjusting in larger increments than before...

Question 2: is it okay to dress it up a bit? I was thinking about a small wooden case or having it professionally painted.
B_limo

Q1: Only if any part of the rest of the system has changed with a different gain to it source amp or speakers. As it's impossible for the Lightspeed Attenuator to change gain as it has none.

Q2:As the Lightspeed chassis is part of the RF shielding, puting it into a wooden case may introduce rf noise into the system.I advise against it.

Cheers George
Thanks George.

What about painting the exterior chasis of the lightspeed with automotive paint? Yes, no?
George,

Another quick question: would the lightspeed attenuator work well with a prima luna prologue five tube amp?

Input impedance 100 kohm
input sensitivity 600 mv (the man. site said 600mv on one page, 775mv on another...)

Thanks in advance, George!
It would need to be electrically conductive, the only paint I know of that is, is rear window demister paint. Better off lining the whole inside with aluminium foil then it needs to be earthed to all 4 x rca sockets so it gets a system earth. All too much if you ask me, just enclose the Lightspeed as it is with the wood of your choice, that way all is still RF shielded.

Cheers George
B_limo
George,Another quick question: would the lightspeed attenuator work well with a prima luna prologue five tube amp?
Input impedance 100 kohm
input sensitivity 600 mv (the man. site said 600mv on one page, 775mv on another...)Thanks in advance, George!

Perfect match! and just about any source will give out more than 600mV. Most give 2000mV (2v) or more.

Cheers George
I think it will work fine with the Prima Luna, but at 600mV you might not get too far around on the volume control. With my Music Reference RM-10 that is 800mV I get to about 11 o'clock before I reach my preferred listening level.
This is a strange hobby, and the hobbyists are a strange breed.

Some folks are content to listen to their music collection and not worry themselves if a power cord or a PSU will make an improvement to what they have.
They are the ultimate music lovers,while some of us, myself included,fuss over the smallest of details trying to squeeze that last drop of performance out of our systems.
Such types are mostly frowned upon,their enthusiasm about superior performance when changing one type of wire for another is met with more than a bit of scepticism.
"Don't such people know that if two wires measure identical they should sound the same not different?"
"The only difference between a stock fuse and an upgraded fuse is the cost.Soundwise there should be no difference."

On and on it goes.
The endless "I heard it" and the response"no, it just can't be".

Some of us have heard the improvements the TeraDak makes over an off the shelf wallwart, which as stated by someonelse, probably is a SMP device,the linear ones seem to be harder to find.

Battery power would appear to be, in theory ,to be the ideal.I once owned a Sutherland PHD battery power phono stage, my friend has a Nighthawk battery power phono stage.
Yes, getting off the grid does have it's benefits,but battery power isn't the magic bullet, ticket, to sonic nirvana.
It takes more than a battery power supply to bulid a good anything.

Not trying to disparage any of the above products, or anyone's based on battery power, but there is a lot to be said about how those batteries are implimented into the design and how good the design of the product is in the first place.

Running a device that is well made, and designed with top components will trump an inferior design with cheap off the shelf parts.
Because both are battery powered, doesn't mean they will be on the same playing field, and sound the same.

I would think that there are the same quality variations between such battery power supplies as there are with anythingelse.Some better than others.
Or you may feel that they should all sound the same.

The PHD doesn't sound like the Nighthawk,or my Steelhead, nor should it.
Yet the non battery powered unit with tubes,doesn't send any kind of hiss or residual noise thru my system, so it's as dead quiet as the battery unit was.
If that was the only thing to consider, then you could say that there is no difference between battery power and grid power.Or that it makes no sense to spend any extra money if the Nighthawk is as quiet as the PHD.

A SMP is said to be noisier, inferior to a linear unit, and the linear unit is said to be the equal of a good battery supply.
The LSA demands such little juice that how one can hear any differences at all between any of the devices is hard to believe.The power supply shouldn't really be of importance, just as long as it meets the specs.
Less would be bad, but more is overkill.

I'm not sold that it's the noise from a SMP supply that was robbing me from all the dynamics that I now enjoy.
The system sounds as noise free as before.
Just like the Steelhead is a noise free as the PHD was.
There are other things to be considered,not just noise cancellations.
I'm just a listener,not a techie.
But I'm not suffering from tunnel vision either or am I the slave to measuring devices.

And yet here we are discussing those very differences and merits between a cheap wallwart or a bit more expensive PSU being used with an entry level priced volume control.

Chump change to the those who play in the big leagues and ponder if another ten grand on interconects over and above the ten already spent,would have made the difference they were looking for.

I have no idea what the cost is for a decent battery power supply for the LSA, and what the lifespan/cost is to keep one running at it's optimum.Or if it gradually powers down or abruptly shuts down.

So I would think that if a linear supply sounds close, then that would be the one to go for.

I have no ideas why the TeraDak performs so well in my system.
Granted it's getting more support from what it's plugged into than most other LSA in use.

But that's getting back to the top of my rant.
The LSA is not priced as a High End performer,so the systems it maybe used in, perhaps reflect the cost constraints of the owner.In other words,it's cheap, but in cost only.But it's cheap, why throw any money at it?

I think if the thrifty music lovers, (who are always looking to cut corners to free up more cash for music software),and buy the LSA, will most likely partner it with gear in the same price spectrum.

And for those folks,expensive power cords and power supplies are unjustified for musical satisfaction.

So in essence, they are selling the LSA short from my perspective.

And in my opinion,so are the folks who own the LSA and power it with a SMP wallwart into a power bar.

From my recent experience it deserves to be treated with the same regard for power demand as any of the mega buck high end components, and will benefit just as much.Eventhough it only requires a minimum amount of power to work, don't take it for granted that it can not be made to work even better.
It's power demands are few but don't hold that against it.
Given a better power supply, the LSA is an even better giant killer.
Thanks Lacee. I am glad George recommended this PS and that you and Banquo263 have used it. So now hearing about its positive effect it is on my list to get as soon as I get my new innerconnect, Amadi Maddie Sign., in my system and broken in. Thanks again.
Thanks Clio!

Well put Lacee. I'm no skeptic when it comes to upgraded power supplies or power cords; they've all made improvents in my system, so I don't know why I'm skeptical over an upgraded power supply for the lightspeed (maybe because someone (George?) said that rubbing two sticks together is enought to power the lightspeed, lol. I'll be getting a teradak next month to compare to the battery pack I'm currently using.

Now if there was a way to harness all the damn static electricity in my house, I could power all my equipment for free...
Hi guys: haven’t viewed this thread for a couple of yrs at least (since I bought a LSA, after the gracious, generous help of Pubul57, Clio09, and George).

Maybe you are interested: I upgraded my LSA by wiring the power supply direct to the board (removing the psu connector). It was beneficial, but relatively so long ago I can’t be specific about what difference I heard.

Oh, I also replaced the RCAs with WBT NextGens to (supposedly) impedance match my WBT NexGen/ICs, and added a separate earth lug to the LSA chassis, that is wired (separately), directly to the green mains Earth wire behind a dedicated mains outlet (so the LSA is like a star earth in my system. I tried in vain to get George to add an Earth lug when I purchased).

(It gets worse! I also rewired my LSA with the same silver litz of my ICs.
But other than the psu wired direct to the board, it’s all far too laborious – I’m not even sure I should mention it!)

I’m using the original supplied wall wart psu, so your discussions re power supply are v interesting. Seemingly its sm, according to George's suggested AM radio test which gets noisy when brought close to it.

Thanks guys for the interesting posts.
Sorry part of my earlier post was premature.

"I’m using the original supplied wall wart psu, so your discussions re power supply are v interesting. Seemingly its sm according to George's suggested AM radio test, which gets noisy brought close to it."

I believe I misinterpreted noise: George's info says he supplies a linear 12vdc supply - thats what I've got. Please ignore my "Seemingly its sm," line.
No worries, B_limo.

John47: did replacing the rca's make an appreciable difference? I've been wanting to have that done for the longest time. I wish I possessed your soldering skills.
John47
I supply 220v-240v linear wall warts to the rest of the world. US and Canadian owners purchase their own 110v ones from within North America. Who knows what they are getting from their suppliers, as linear wall warts are getting very hard to find, smp is the norm now.

You need not worry John47 being from New Zealand I would have sent a linear to you.

Cheers George
John47

That is unless you had your own wall wart, and just ordered the Lightspeed without wall wart, I had a few who've done this.

Cheers George
Thanks for your comments George: no I didn't have a wall wart, I would have bought the package, so can about guarantee mine is a 'George' psu.

Banquo
"John47: did replacing the rca's make an appreciable difference?"
I would like to say yes, but being semi ancient and not keeping notes I don't remember. It was some time ago, but can say that my system sound has gone incrementally forward (over time). If there was no difference, or worse, assuredly I would have a big mental red alert.
Of note - I've used Nextgen Ag throughout, to match my silver ICs, and that I discovered (by removing) gold plating adds warmth, ie colouration I don't want. Expensive, but a oncer. Best RCA? I cann't say, but I read heaps before I bought.
Further: WBT Nextgen are not a direct replacement in the LSA, the mounting holes need enlarging, not straight forward.
Sorry if above seems like a non answer, but I don't recall, even subliminally, thinking I should restore the original RCAs.


OK for US and Canadian owners of the Lightspeed Attenuator, I just did a search for definate linear wall warts that are all suitable.
First three are regulated, last two are unregulated, it does not really matter, so long as they are linear 9-12v with a 2.1mm plug that is center positive which they all are.
Or you can get the Teradac http://www.ab-system.hk/index.php?route=product/product&path=73&product_id=64 Cheers George

110-115v linear wall warts from Jameco, payment by COD, Paypal or Credit Card
All are suitable.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_null_220898_-1


http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_null_1953639_-1


http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_null_162996_-1


http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_null_2192712_-1


http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_null_2197484_-1
John47: you must have the most heavily modded LSA in existence. It would be interesting to a/b it with a stock version.
Off Topic but I wanted to say I switched from a Classe CA-150 amp to a Prima Luna Prologue 5 lastnight and the lightspeed works great on both. No problem whatsoever with using the lightspeed with the Prima Luna; it sounds great! I secretly thank George everytime I fire up my rig. His piece is one of about four that changed my rig from mid-fi to hi-fi.
Most modded LSA: don't know.
Probably need to follow DIY.com to get a sense of yes or no.

Maybe the power supply is the big one!
Replacing the RCA with the same ones as my amp is a move I might make,but I am hesitant as I haven't had the LSA for a year yet.
If something goes south that's not related to the RCA mod,would I still be covered or would I be on my own?

Nothing holds me back from simple mods if the gear is out of warranty.
If it's a new one, far as being fixed under warranty, ah, yes that would be out the window.

If you decide to do it, do not use the nylon insulating washers that come with rca's. You must make sure that all 4 x of the metal bodies of the new rca's are in electrical contact with the back panel.

And be careful the black anodising on aluminium chassis is an electrical insulator, so leave the burrs of the rca holes sticking up as they contact the rca's body.

Cheers George
Thanks George,I am quite happy with the unit as is,maybe down the road I'll try the new RCA, so that all contacts are rhodium to rhodium,just the OCD part of my brain talking out loud.The tips about what to do are most appreciated by me and anyonelse thinking about mods.
Hello again George, still loving m LSA and I did add a TeraDak PS to the mix.

At first I thought I heard a big difference vs. the wallwart but now I am used to it but I am staying with the TeraDak. Yes that red led is BRIGHT and be carefaul as the face plates are sharp. I hid my unit under my bed and my wife stepped on it and sliced up her toes very bad...

Curious how this Nelson Pass unit compares to the LSA...here is a link to some circuit diagrams:

http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/prod_b1_man.pdf
I hid my unit under my bed and my wife stepped on it and sliced up her toes very bad...

I am not going to ask because I don't even want to know.
Photonman, good news that you prefer the Teradac, am I reading right that you think it's a little better than the wall wart you have, if so in what way? And do you know if your wall wart was linear or switch mode?

As for Nelson Pass and that buffer. Many thanks to him as he first developed it for the Lightspeed Attenuator back in 2008 so that it could then drive some of his amps that had low input impedance that customers owned who wanted to use the Lightspeed with it. Those amps for memory had around 10 or 20kohm input impedance.

Here is the link to the 2008 post and circuit diagram for the Lightspeed he developed.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/80194-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp-137.html#post1521766

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/analog-line-level/109114d1211904694-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp-atten-sch.jpg

Cheers George
No its NOT, Same as a Ford Cortina is not the best car ever.
feeding a pair of shunt and series LDR's from a fixed voltage then into a potentiometer with all the consequences of ridiculously low current and some trimpots at the other end when the pot swings to maximum. I have nothing against Cortina's mum and dad drove one
And DBX was the best there was in the 80's,until you bought one and couldn't stand to listen to the music any morebecause of all the pumping noise issues.

If you try an LSA in a system that is devoid of shapeshifting devices and listen to a high resolution system, you'd understand what all the folks who own one are talking about.

It is as far away from processed sound as the Cortina is to a Bugatti.

I'm quite sure your folks were proud of that Cortina and where it took them,and for them it was the best car in the world.

Strictly speaking I would agree that the LSA is not the "best preamp ever".

It's not a Pre-Amp.

It's a volume control.
Hi Lacee
Its in the detail you miss out, DBX type 1 (not type 2) is very relevant today, works wonderfully with CD sources.

Quite correct on the description, however the post question is also wrong then.

There is far more to the NSL32SR2s and feeding it DC sadly this little car you perceive so much faith and interest in is parked and frozen in design , step across to the next garage, otherwise you will never find out.

Hi Georgelofi, I believe the thread cd player direct or preamp that is new, needs your help., you can answer better than I can, so I did not post
Audiolabyrinth, I tried, but couldn't find the thread, which forum is it in?

Cheers George
Found it and answered.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?aamps&1392847679&&&/Pre-amp-or-cd-direct-to-XA30-5-

Cheers George
i found the lightspeed more detail,musical &neutral compare with my other preamp(sonic frontier sfl2 & placett audio rvc) with lightspeed my system never sound so good before, on rare occasion i found lacking is through full classical orchestra music with rapid & continues power punch & slam. just my 2 cent.