Fuse replacement

@kevemaher @jjss49  I totally concur with your statement but:

1. I have some basic treatment already, including front wall heavy curtain behind speakers, carpet, corner bass traps plus furniture.  The rest is WAF prohibited.  The room measurement does not look bad at all.

2. Given the room mode I had, my speaker placement is tweaked carefully.  I don't say it is perfect but fairly close.  Look at my previous thread on that if interested.  I even have theoretical formulation to assist one to achieve the optimal setting.  You could save a lot of trial and error if you follow it.

3. I always do close-field audition to eliminate room effect and determine if tone, tonal balance and other incremental improvement in sonic traits can be further made. 

@richardbrand ...The easiest way to increase the resistance is to make the cross-section smaller.

Agreed as well but that is mainly for fast blow fuse(s).  Most of high-end gears that use transformer like toroidal uses slow blow fuse(s) (T- like you can see above) to avoid fuse(s) blown out prematurely due to high inrush current or temp start-up spikes.  For slow-blow fuses, thicker element is often used or changing the straight geometry to coiled one.  Fills like quartz sand and / or copper power are often used to dissipate / absorb heats (although that is the only / main purpose).  

@lanx0003 

Sorry, from your photo, the fuses looked as if they just contained a piece of straight wire.

Was it Wile E. Coyote that turned you on to Acme fuses?

@larryi  Ha! Good one.  I like the joke but I was not convinced with CFC (Crystal Fiber Compound) coating on Acme fuses.  

@richardbrand  The pair on my Denafrips Hestia are low-cost slow-blow fuses that use thicker element but the higher cost alternative may use coiled element as shown in Figure 2 in the following article

https://www.ariat-tech.com/blog/understanding-slow-blow-vs.fast-blow-fuses.html