Measuring brand new music room

Among other things you should do is check out the AM Acoustics room mode simulator.  It will help you get a handle on where you can avoid most room modes as well as what kinds they are and where they will be. 

Once you know that and your furniture is in place this will help guide you in regards to bass trap type and location, if any. 

Hi JP,

You can certainly measure your empty room as horrible as it will be, and it can become your baseline, however I'd be more inclined to use a furnished room as your starting point before adding treatments. Two points I would suggest to you involve (A) What to Measure? and (B) Room Treatment Sequence.

Here's what's worked for me (and client's measurements).

(A What to Measure?

> ER (Early Reflections) from 0-10ms; each channel measured separately; use 3 one-octave bandwidths centered at 500 / 1 / 2kHz so you can see how different frequencies reflection energy levels compare. Compare L vs R for each octave (e.g. try for a 2dB max difference) and also across the 3-octaves for a single speaker (e.g. aim for a 4dB max difference from loudest to quietest curve).  Aim for symmetry of energy and timing of the reflections.  (Hint: use a 0-40ms x-axis on your chart to see what's going on and +10 to -40dB scale on your y-axis), 

Achieving good L vs R symmetry will impact both tonal balance and imaging. The goal isn't to remove the 1st order reflection completely but to attenuate them enough so as not to interfere too much with the direct sound.

> DT (Decay Time T30): typically between 200ms for the highs to about 450ms max for the lowest bass notes.  Aim for a continuous smooth line measured in 1/3rd octave intervals (50 - 10kHz bandwidth). I tend to focus on L vs Target curve and same with R so that the absolute values aren't excessive in the bass and also L vs R asymmetry for decay times aren't as noticeable - especially in the bass - as frequency asymmetries..

> FR (Frequency Response): again use L vs R symmetry with a focus on the midrange where >2dB is more easily perceived but the same 2dB difference is hardly noticeable at say 40Hz.

(B)  Acoustic Treatment Workflow:
1. Early Reflections (0–10ms)
Start with the floor, ceiling, sidewalls, front and rear walls — focusing on first-order reflections.
2.Bass Decay
Use bass traps to reduce overly long decay times. Why? Bloated bass can mask midrange detail, so this step is crucial for clarity.
3. Mid/High Decay Times
Add diffusion and/or reflectors to maintain liveliness. Over-absorbing these frequencies can leave the room sounding dull and lifeless. You want a balance — not an anechoic chamber.
4. Frequency Response EQ (the very last step)
Once the room’s reflections and decay are under control, then (and only then) consider gentle EQ. Aim for each channel to be within ±3dB across the range. Doing EQ first often masks deeper acoustic issues — it’s like painting over a cracked wall.

Most people start with EQ… but trust me, it’s better saved for last..

Acoustic treatment and room tuning are one of my favorite things. 

REW is great free software for that purpose. You get all the measurements you need with one sweep. A calibrated microphone can be had for about $100. It's important to compare left and right separately and together. 

There are tutorials on YouTube showing how to set up for measurements. I can't vouch for their quality. 

FWIW, you can take screenshots of all the graphs on REW, upload them to your choice of AI, and ask for an analysis and recommendations. I've used Gemini but Claude might be even better. 

Finally, GIK Acoustics makes a lot of good acoustic materials at a reasonable price. They will also analyze your REW data and make recommendations. 

Good luck. It can be a lot of fun fine tuning your room. 

Building a new space, dedicated to listening:

Stop the workers, perhaps, rather than sheetrock, change the type of finish, but you need time for research.

Adjacent spaces, you need to solve sound transmission

In the room, you need to solve sound absorption, diffusion, reflections

Sometimes, to solve both, double walls, with staggered studs are best.

Don’t forget the ceiling and floor materials.

An Acoustic Consultant, right now, might be the best solution.

Where is the new space? perhaps others can recommend someone.

ps, now's the time to solve wiring of all types, and sound proofing around outlet boxes

Another question to be answered? Is the room a designated space in the new home not built to your spec' for the usage as an audio entertainment space?

If Yes, then it is not possible to see how a redesign of the structure can be done without major disruption to the use of the space and adjacent space.

I suspect there is a dedicated space within the home that is produced using commonly used building methods and materials.

I have a dedicated audio entertainment space in my home, which has room treatments in use. As it is my own space, I am able to produce my own DIY designs with little concern for the aesthetic. The design for these treatments are easily treated to be a more eye friendly finish.

What really matters is that commonly seen methods used to improve a room's modes (interface with sound created), is easily achievable. The results to be had are in my case well worthy of reporting back on..

In your space I feel confident there is an option to select more than one positioning for the Speakers in relation to either of the side wall dimensions. Once the room is set up to your liking, have the room measured, with a Mic' and Computer Software Programme and it is a very good place to learn where to create a control measue.

How much one wants to invest in acquiring a control measure is their choice. For myself the DIY route has worked wonders at a fraction of the cost of a commercially offered product. If I were to invest another £100+ a fabric with a very nice weave or print could be added. If I were to push the Budget further, designs like the ones seen in the link can be used. 

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