Do I still need to buy a stylus force gauge if I can get the settings off the internet?

Are you really asking whether you can rely completely on the markings on the counterweight on the 1200G tonearm, for setting VTF? If you know how to use the CW correctly, I would say you have a chance of being within +/-0.2g. My advice would be to invest in a digital stylus force gauge.  The cost is too low to pass up, and it is a one time purchase. Also, please ignore the AI bullsh*t about the Anti-skate setting. I and probably you don't even know what those numbers (1.5 to 1.7) mean, unless they refer to markings on the AS device of the 1200G tonearm.  But those numbers seem excessive. Everyone has a pet method for setting AS.  What I do is start with zero AS. Listen for distortion in the R channel using a randomly chosen LP.  Then add AS in tiny increments until that distortion disappears.  The usual result is I use very little AS compared to VTF.

I would get a VTF gauge mainly for peace of mind. With an $800 cart, a $20 stylus gauge is negligible. I would take the recommended VTF as a starting point, then experiment +/- 0.1 grams and see how you like the sound. With my SoundSmith Zephyr I liked it best on the heavier side of recommended range. The Aphelion 2 sounds best to me with mean recommended setting.

Re antiskate, there is also the Wally Skater tool. A bit pricy, though.

And then there is also the question of how to set your phono-stage loading. I see mainly 47 kOhm and 100 pF for the MP-500. Again, a starting point, then experiment.

Why didn’t you ask AI if stylus force gauge is necessary? And if you did, what answer did you get?

Go for it!

Amazon.com: DIGITNOW Digital Turntable Stylus Force Scale Gauge 0.01g/5.00g,Tracking Force Pressure Scale for Tonearm Phono Cartridge, Blue LCD Backlight : Musical Instruments

Since folks are recommending a stylus gage, how do the markings on the turntable adjustment compare to a stylus gage reading to those that have used one?