btw speakers, including full range, generally use short throw drivers and surrounds for speed and accuracy needed to play shorter wavelength higher frequencies above 100Hz. Subs use heavier long throw drivers and surrounds that work better with longer wavelengths that are harder to maintain linearity, speed and accuracy. They're less efficient and require a separate amp. For those differences, most speaker designs don't move much air and don't really make much if any pressure. They're more about detail, accuracy and efficiency. This could also infer why big honking subs generally aren't what you want for music if you want to use a high crossover, maybe above 50Hz.
How do small woofers produce large bass?
Hi All,
I am looking at loudspeakers... I currently own the Arendal 1723 THX Monitors. 2 8" woofers each. I listen to probably 80% home theater and 20% pure two-channel music of all sorts. I am contemplating upgrading the speakers, and there are a number that I am very interested in. The Arendals are killer for music and home theater. In fact crazy amazing at home theater. I have also 2 SVS SB-3000 subs.
But as we all know, wanting to upgrade. blah blah ad nauseum. :)
And most everything I’m looking at has 6.5" bass drivers, usually 2 per speaker. I am looking at the Acoustic Energy Corinium, the KEF R11 Meta, the Dali Opticon 8 MKII, and the PSB T600.
I have a fear that the bass will be plenty for two-channel music, but won’t have that bad-ass slam of the Arendal’s dual 8" drivers. So my question is sort of a scientific one or a physics one. I am baffled as to how the 6.5" drivers in all of these new speakers are going to produce home theater sized bass. I’ve watched every video, read every article about those 4 contenders (above) - and everything/everybody says essentially "no worries, the woofers are lighter and faster, and since there are two of them, they make a great deal of bass. I just think I’m not seeing the "science" or "physics" of that. Like how are these 6.5" drivers going to handle something incredibly powerful/dynamic (bomb blasts/gun shots/thunder/explosions etc etc??? I’m afraid I’ll be let down by something like the PSB T600’s or the KEF R11 Metas when head to head with the dual 8" drivers in my Arendals. I’m hoping people can assure me and/or run through the science.... thanks to all. Oh, and yes, I do cross over to my two subs at 60Hz.
- ...
- 66 posts total
Just like @bartsw and his 802s, I had the same problem with not enough deep bass from my B&W 803s. Two powered subs, crossed over at 80 Hz, took care of the problem. Bass. That's what subs are for. |
I think it's very sad main speakers have decreased the diameter of their bass drivers over the past 20 years. Ultimately this led to creating a subwoofer market. Apparently to get great sound you have to buy a pair of subwoofers because the main speakers no longer have adequate base. It's a marketing gimmick. Subwoofers can make really good tables. |
You mentioned you need power to make bass.
Some guys are suckered to spend 90% of the budget on subs for 0.006% of the bandwidth (120Hz/20,000).
I’d hate to see people reading stuff like this and spend their money thinking full range speakers can replace subs and find out it’s not true. I still advocate full range + subs is the way to go.
I also can’t stand the girls in AVS and ASR who think a 650" subwoofer and a 1" speaker is high quality music. To them, SPL is quality bass. It’s physics and science they say. That’s like saying a 650" subwoofer cone is quicker, faster and more detailed than a beryllium cone. It’s grade F science. |
- 66 posts total