Fixing Wall Shudder


When I moved to my new place a few years ago, my audio quality took a huge hit. I’ve worked through some power supply issues (lose neutral lug in the meter socket). Something about the room always seemed off, forcing me to try multiple rooms for my audio setup without success. Bass was the biggest issue. Multiple JL audio W6v3 subs in sealed boxes with DSP sounds bad? That doesn’t add up. Especially when they sounded amazing at my last place.

The room/wall construction isn’t anything special but it wasn’t at my last place either and I got excellent results. I think I’ve narrowed down the problem to contractor grade wall construction. If you pound on the walls with your fist, it sounds like lightweight construction and also let’s out a booming sound.

I recently read an article about wall shudder and I think that’s the cause of most of my issues. From the article:

“When a pressure spike hits a wall or ceiling it delivers a short solid blow to the surface. This vibrational surface twangs back and forth with its own resonant tone. These mechanical reverb times are long, easily over 1.2 seconds. The walls and ceiling of most rooms vibrate too freely to be used for any kind of powerful audio in music listening rooms. Explosive transients in an unconditioned room are not tight and clean, they stimulate structural vibration which creates new sounds that are heard but which are not in the program material.”

And

“The best way to imagine what contractor grade flexible walls behave like in high power audio rooms is to imagine a big subwoofer installed in the middle of each wall and a bigger one in the ceiling.”

and

“All audiophiles know how loud they can play their room. It might be around 75 dB,A, or maybe 80 or even 85 dB,A. But whatever it was, you just can’t play the room any harder without it falling apart… every room has its threshold, above which, the room cannot dissipate any more power, and when that happens, the room transforms into a vibrating, quaking, thundering twanging badly built giant guitar box… the room will “break-up” just like a loudspeaker cone will break-up. This is the reason for sound level limits in listening rooms.”

My question is this: What can be done without taking the walls down to the studs and building a proper wall? Can I achieve good results by adding more screws to the studs, securing the sheetrock better, or by adding another layer of Sheetrock? Am I kidding myself and I just need to do a full-on construction project and take everything down to the studs and start fresh?

128x128mkgus

Maybe they didn't use construction adhesive to bond the drywall to the studs.

To recap:

 

Your description is of known and common room problems, therefore fix those first before you go looking for exotic and previously unknown issues.

Thank you. A lot of good information here and I will take everything into consideration. Concerning the idea of adding a layer of dry wall, one concern I have is that if I later decide to tear down to the studs, the extra layer will be for naught. Would 24” O.C. be a deal breaker and require opening the walls and adding more studs/cross-bracing? What should be done before adding an extra layer of drywall?

 You never know what you will find 'behind the curtain' in craftmanship. When I bought my old house, it had numerous repairs done by someone who didn't give a care. I would use the side of my fist and thump along the wall to listen for trouble. You will hear it if it's there. The trouble spot was actually in a small clothes closet where the previous owner used 1/8" Masonite instead of sheetrock! Sounded like a drum. A little upset, I took that out and replaced it with concrete wall board. What? you don't think that this would not react to music with bass? 

 Point here being that you really don't know what is going on in some situations until you have investigated it yourself. Same with electrical, plumbing and more. Just because there was a home inspection doesn't mean that you get the full story.