5AR4 rectifier tube question


I am sort of shopping for one or more 5AR4s for a Cary SLP05 power supply because I’d like to have at least one spare and because I’d maybe like to roll two or three ad see if I can hear an improvement or vice versa. I make no claims of knowing much about the vacuum tube game; occasionally I get lucky & stumble on something that really works for me. As far as the 5AR4, I did a hit at Uncle Kevin’s site, and there were some that looked interesting (I am thinking of one in particular, it had a Japanese sounding name that started with a ’M’) but when I click on it, all I get is a picture of Uncle Kevin’s screaming face telling me "not to buy tubes" (later, when I finally took time to read, apparently his tube tester is down).

So I started doing hits on Ebay, and oh my gosh! I was inundated with choices and the variation in prices! Which do I stay away from and which should I be interested in? Would a 5AR4 from Bugera also be suitable for what I’d want to use it for? Could a rectifier tube provide a big sonic upgrade if I spent enough money on it? Can I make a sonic upgrade from what I believe (I haven’t opened up the power supply yet) is the stock EH 5AR4 without breaking the bank? I would be totally good with the $50.00 range and picking up 2 or 3 different ones to play with if those with experience thought I could improve the power supply in that range. If I had to I guess I could go more (the $100.00 range) but I probably wouldn’t be buying too many of them, and I was kind of HOPING not to go much over that.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the input; I always consider it part of my education.

immatthewj

@immatthewj 

Hi,

I have a Cary SLP 05 too and have used several different rectifiers after the stock Sovtek failed after three months and took both fuses with it.  

I rate the Sovtek as OK sounding and poor on reliability. 

I tried a Gold Lion and it was a mixed experience. Good dynamics but poor transparency and detail.  

For NOS I tried an off label Amperex and it had quite a bass punch but the treble was not refined.

Next was a Mullard f31 and it was excellent but not quite as good as the Mullard f32 which is cheaper and easier to find.  

The NOS Mullard f32 can be found on ebay under a variety of labels that Mullard made them for, e.g. Haltron, RCA and Westinghouse.  

There are a number of very knowledgable and trustworthy tube guys on ebay and they have served me well for NOS rectifiers and 6SN7 tubes for my Cary. 

The Mullard f32 sounds so much better in my system than any others.  Speed, dynamics, transparency and seperation, refinement, bass, midrage, treble, etc.  Reliability is by all accounts a last a life time purchase, mine has lasted 9 months and going strong. 

Mullard NOS GZ34 / 5AR4 f32 date code.   If you keep looking you should be able to find an unused version for -$150 or so.  

i still have quite a stash of nice old stock 5ar4/gz34 (uk holland japan) so if folks are desperate for a few of them i may be able to assist, just pm me... only in usa or canada please - i am not currently using gear that runs these...

i had accumulated quite a few these from the 90's and 00's when i was running my wavelength cardinal se amps (one in each mono block) so being the hoarder i am i stocked up way back then

I only use Andy of Vintage Tube Services.  Due to high demand (panic) he is running 2 to 3 months behind in filling orders but really knows his stuff and has never let me down with superior, fairly priced tubes. 

After extensive rectifier rolling in my SLP 05 I settled on 1959 Mullard Fat Base GZ34/5ar4 rectifier tube. 

Andy is real good. I would recommend doing a browser search for DubStep Girl’s Massive 5ar4 Shoot-Out. It is comprehensive and has her comments on the sonics of each tube. I have a number of these rectifiers. My fav, which is not a direct equivalent, is a GEC u52. I’ve had them as brown base and black base. I own several different old Mullards, including a NIB/NOS Philips/Miniwatt metal base- it sounds dramatically different than the GEC.

Some of this is probably due to the circuit, so I’d think you’d want to compare notes with somebody who has rolled using at least the same component. In my case, it was an Allnic phono stage with outboard power supply.