Advice needed on power cables, wall warts, conditioning, electrical outlet


Hi everyone,

I would appreciate any advice on power cables, wall warts, power conditioning, better electrical outlet,  etc. 

If I have a power conditioner, with all of my equipment plugged into it with their stock cables, would upgrading the individual components’ power cable, wall wart etc. really help to improve the sound quality?  If yes, in what order of priority would you suggest?  Looking to make some low/moderate cost "tweaks" where it makes sense.

FWIW, here’s my setup:

  • 15 amp dedicated electrical circuit with standard home grade grounded electrical outlet.
  • Furman PL Plus-C power conditioner (repurposed from my music equipment studio rack) plugged into this AC outlet.  (Furman has a hardwired power cable, so I cannot easily swap it out)
  • All of my audio equipment plugs into the Furman: e.g. integrated tube amp, DAC, Sound Expander, ethernet to optical converter, Sonore Optical Rendu (feeds the DAC via USB), and Small Green Computer Roon server.
  • All components have their respective manufacturers’ standard issue power cord or wall wart.  (Sonore Optical Rendu with their Small Green Computer standard LPS).
  • TrendNet ethernet switch, not on the conditioner and uses wall wart.  CAT 8 to upstairs to my Asus router also wall wart and not on conditioner.
  • Asus router to Verizon FIOS ONT via CAT 8 ethernet.

Any advice and comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot!

bogbeat

I changed my 2 channel and HT wall warts to Audioquest NRG15's, using all Audioquest powercords(various versions), with Monster HDP2500 for HT system, and Monster AVS2000/Furman 15PFI for 2 channel setup. 

In my previous system this was a night and day difference and a must to be at least listenable. The twitter was so bright and over accentuating everything that it sounded like knife sharpening. The sibilants were ear piercing. At that time I lived in a 65 year old townhouse with potentially the worst electricity ever. For example, the system was completely unlistenable between 6pm and 9:30pm. After 9:30pm you could listen to it as it sounded a bit better. Weekend mornings sounded ok too. My friend is an electrician. I asked him if he can pull a dedicated line for me to plug in the gear, we decided on 20 amps. I bough an Audioquest Edison plug and he put it on that dedicated line. Things improved in terms of dynamics but the brightness didn’t. I then bought the Niagara 5000 power conditioner and 4 Monsoon and 4 Cardas Cygnus power cords. Some components liked the Cardas better, some the Audioquest but the main difference was that all the brightness and over accentuating went away. It literally disappeared and the tweeter became very relaxed and natural sounding. This literally was a night and day difference for my system. Your mileage can very however as these things are system dependent. It is better to play it safe and try before you buy.

 

 

I am currently using a PS Audio P20 and Audioquest Hurricane Power Cords.  Two things stick out to me compared to my previous power cords and no power conditioner.  #1  the noise level-this is not noise like hum or hiss but much more subtle-when it is eliminated, you have a very, very, quiet black background.  That is the best way I can describe it.  The P20 does a lot in that regard by regenerating the AC to a very clean sine wave.  Regarding the Audioquest Hurricane cables, I was never a believer in power cables making a difference until I tried a demo cable. There was a an immediate reduction in noise-again blacker backgrounds and I noticed increased micro detail.  I still couldn't wrap my head around the physics of why this could be possible until I started reading about electrodynamics.  I always thought that electricity flowed thru a wire kind of like water thru a pipe.  As I began to get a better understand of electrodynamics,  I realized, the water thru the pipe analogy was totally wrong.  The energy is actually propagated thru the electromagnetic field surrounding the conductors.  With that understanding, it opened my eyes to how something like a power cord could actually affect sound.  The second big benefit I noticed with the P20 was as passages got louder and more complex, there was no constriction.  Previously, as music became louder-like during orchestral crescendos,  I would notice a pull back in the sound stage and a bit of harshness in the overall sound.  With the P20, this was eliminated.  The downside of course is expense.  This stuff doesn't come cheap but, it is worth doing a demo.  You may not need to go with the P20-there is a P12 and P5.  I have some big power hungry amps so I elected to go big.  It is definitely worth checking out.  BTW, I also have two dedicated 20 amp circuits.  

We live in a different world today - the mains power is increasingly noisy and polluted.

Thankfully, there's a plethora of solutions from several manufacturers.  I use Goal Zero and a Yeti 1000 for my Devialet system, others with traditional power hungry amps may need a Yei 1500, 3000 or even the new 6000 that will power almost anything.  They have HUGE current supply, much more than a traditional 15amp domestic circuit and absolutely ZERO noise on the line, they're pure 60Hz. A nice not necessarily extravagant cord finish the last few feet minimizing any potential for RFI/EMI impact.  The Stromtank is identical save the $30k price of entry, the Yeti are less than any comparable conditioner.

Once you try it, you wont ever go back!

i have a gigawatt  in wall power cable and safety switch. high end power cables and a gigawatt pc 3 se evo for my ayon dac and vitus amp. 

 

i have a gigawatt pf2 for my tv.  bonn n8 swictch with sbooster psu. marantz 7011 and paradigm subwoofer.

 

i thought that would be enough for removing home theatre from 2 channel.

 

WRONG!!! 

 

If you have anything thats not 2 channel or any dc even with good power supply try removing it from that mains plug. try them running from another room!

 

that made a big difference to clarity and bass for me.