It is unfortunate the article begins with the false notion of the fuse being there to protect the component. The fuse is NOT there to protect the component! The fuse is there to protect the HOUSE! Takes about one millisecond to understand the fuse cannot protect any component. Does a fuse stop a tube burning out? How is a fuse going to prevent a resistor or cap or transistor burning out? They will and do all the time. All the fuse does is if this fault causes the component to draw too much current, such as with a short, that could generate enough heat to start a fire. Then and only then does the fuse do its job by burning out, which otherwise could result in a fire. Other thing unfortunate is fricken Goolag translate: Every issue of Chinese and foreign audio magazines is always uninterrupted, with unremitting spirit to face and solve, with strong comprehension, can draw inferences from one another, and many audio mysteries can penetrate the mystery.Clear as mud, but it covers the ground. After chewing the text, I feel that some of them are illusory and vague. I'll say. This part though is interesting: metal activation technology: increase the amount of electrons flowing in molecules per second, and the larger the increase, the better the effect, which can increase the dynamic range and sound density. Okay, well electrons are subatomic particles. Molecules are combinations of atoms. So conflicting scales. Molecules do not flow, only electrons. You guys caught that one, right? Once again clear as mud. But at least we get the idea, there is some underlying reason why these things are so much more dynamic and clear. I did find one useful bit of possibly solid information: Series, respectively, A-Analog for analog equipment; D-Digital for digital equipment; S-Sub-woofer for active subwoofer; V-Video for video equipment. The four series are tuned to make the equipment unique effect. Is this correct? Or another translation snafu? Because when I ordered mine off tweekgeek.com there was size, color, and fast/slow. That's it. No A, no D, no S or V. Awful lot of reading to wind up with more questions than answers. But, thanks. |
Installed Yellow into my Lampi Pacific yesterday and have had two days on it. I did try to paste the 1260 to the end caps but it was almost impossible to install without losing it all on my fingers. I still have 3 other components to install the yellow fuse to. Question on directionality...what exactly will you hear if you install the fuse the wrong way? I have had the SR Black, Blue and Orange. My assumption has been as you look at the back of the amp, I place the fuse going left to right with the writing on the fuse. Either i have guessed right everytime or that is the correct way to install. I am not ready to provide my analysis on the yellow in my Lampi I am going through a process of picking music that I know I can hear sonic differences. One example would by Nils Lofgren Band Live -Girl in Motion song. The guitar solos are really good. |
Yes so does this "snake oil" talk about them here. And btw they are not a "bottle neck" for the AC supply. For them to be that they need to be far more "resistive" than the "minuscule couple of milliohms" resistance they measure. There more resistance in all the ac switches you have in series from the mains box switches to the wall socket switches to the equipment mains switches, than that 1/2" long piece of fuse wire in a fuse. To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have. AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH WHAT THESE FUSERS SAY IT WILL DO FOR THE SOUND, EVER!!! LET ALONE BEING DIRECTIONAL!!!!! Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.Cheers to all "non fusers" George |
