2016 I purchase 3 pairs of class Ds to figure out what I like.
2 were Wyred4sound SX1000. ICE modules. I was using them and ONE blew a fuse. Two three time this happened. I'm really not liking the sound. Something is wrong...
I took the top off and there is a fuse inside on the board, along with the the inline VAC fuse. I remove the fuse it has crap all over it. I get new fuses, put a dab of silicone on the tube and contact enhancer on the tips. I clean the heck out of the holder and check the solder joints. They used NON LEAD solder. OK I remove it real quick, resolder the holder and BYPASSED the inline fuse with a piece of copper. I added a 5 amp breaker or 3 what ever it was.
I was just amazed how that amp that was harsh, and just lacked what I was looking for in an amp. 30 minutes of listening to small planars and you were worn out.. IT CHANGED.. Not a little either. Like someone took the HEAVY blanket off the speaker.
I had to turn the volume up to hear clear mids and the highs just fell off. There was a harsh 10k bump from the SS and the order of harmonics..
THEY just Sucked. They don't now. :-)
There was something about that fuse inside. Review after review.. The ICE (R) revision fixed that issue.. LOL So did I... The R was just all the rage and still is... I don't know... I like mine. I paid 500.00 because they were SO BAD... LOL
They actually sound as good as the Nords I own.. Just a little tone control tweak. 15.00 dollars worth of parts.. They will hit 1000+ watts too.. Pretty serious modules for their age..
Did the fuse make the difference? I know it stopped the fuse from blowing and made ONE amp sound better.. Guess what? 2 weeks later I did the right side... A dirty fuse and holder and an upgrade to a circuit breaker... 15.00 well spent again. They like good PC too. NOW....
Regards
2 were Wyred4sound SX1000. ICE modules. I was using them and ONE blew a fuse. Two three time this happened. I'm really not liking the sound. Something is wrong...
I took the top off and there is a fuse inside on the board, along with the the inline VAC fuse. I remove the fuse it has crap all over it. I get new fuses, put a dab of silicone on the tube and contact enhancer on the tips. I clean the heck out of the holder and check the solder joints. They used NON LEAD solder. OK I remove it real quick, resolder the holder and BYPASSED the inline fuse with a piece of copper. I added a 5 amp breaker or 3 what ever it was.
I was just amazed how that amp that was harsh, and just lacked what I was looking for in an amp. 30 minutes of listening to small planars and you were worn out.. IT CHANGED.. Not a little either. Like someone took the HEAVY blanket off the speaker.
I had to turn the volume up to hear clear mids and the highs just fell off. There was a harsh 10k bump from the SS and the order of harmonics..
THEY just Sucked. They don't now. :-)
There was something about that fuse inside. Review after review.. The ICE (R) revision fixed that issue.. LOL So did I... The R was just all the rage and still is... I don't know... I like mine. I paid 500.00 because they were SO BAD... LOL
They actually sound as good as the Nords I own.. Just a little tone control tweak. 15.00 dollars worth of parts.. They will hit 1000+ watts too.. Pretty serious modules for their age..
Did the fuse make the difference? I know it stopped the fuse from blowing and made ONE amp sound better.. Guess what? 2 weeks later I did the right side... A dirty fuse and holder and an upgrade to a circuit breaker... 15.00 well spent again. They like good PC too. NOW....
Regards

