6.5 vs 8 vs 10 woofer

oldhvymec,

I was not actually suggesting that you post a video of your system--I was making fun of the notion that one can evaluate the sound from a YT video.  But, I do find the description of your system interesting.  I like the way large systems, with a lot of square inches of driver or horn aperture sound.  They deliver a sense of scale even when they are not being called on to play at a high volume.  Your system, more than almost anything else I've read about, fits the "large" category. 

We should all boycott the speaker manufacturers and INSIST they ONLY use 6 1/2 and 8 inch woofers from now on.   How dare they use 10 inch and bigger🤣

Downsizing to smaller living spaces pretty much dictates what will work best in a giving listening space.

One of the reasons headphones have become so popular. Notice I said "one" of the reasons. 

Mozartfan,  I would like to know what Mozart tracks you are using as your critical listening criteria or any tracks for that matter.  Just wondering how you are arriving at this enlightened conclusion.  

This sounds to me to me like "No I couldn't buy/drive that car because it's too fast."  

As for me, I believe that building a system with lots of headroom is the way to go.  Hence, my tri-amped ARC powered monsters. Don't need to run wide open, but I do come close on occasion!

Regards,
barts

@mozartfan  
I suggest that you study a bit about speaker design.  There is a lot more than spec's, but they do tell a basic story.  Look at the spec's on drivers that you are comparing.  
First Mass MMS... The amount of cone & suspension weight will definitely affect the sensitivity as well as how low a driver will play.  
Take a 95 db woofer that goes down to 50 hz add enough mass and you may get this thing to go down to 40 hz.  The problem is, when you add mass, the motor will have a tougher time pushing the mass and sensitivity will drop, in this case, it could be 5 or 6 db.  
Second Xmax.  In the case above, if the cone does not have enough excursion limit, it would easily bottom as mass is added.  Xmax is important. 
Third FS.  This tells you the resonant frequency that a driver plays on its own without a baffle.  It will also give you an idea of how low a drive may be able to go (depending on box)
Fourth QTS.  This tells you what type of box the driver is best suited for and how that driver will play bass depending on the type of box.  
Fifth VAS.  When tied into conjunction with everything else above, this will tell us the rest of the story of how low and how loud a driver will play as well as how flat its response is in a given box. 
In general (not cast in stone)  The larger a woofer is,  the lower the FS is and the higher the sensitivity can be.  
Still,  I have actually had an 8 inch woofer that we modified heavily, but in the end, this driver would play an F3 of 22 hz,  BUT, it ended up being 83db sensitivity and didn't have enough XMAX to drive it very hard.  
I am listening to right now, a 15 that is 95db sensitivity, but only goes down to 38hz.... Try to research the amount of air a 15 moves vs a 6 inch, even though both may go down to 40hz, what does driver size mean? Everything is a trade off, if I didn't add so much mass to the 8 inch,  it still would have gotten down to 32hz and gave me more like 86db sensitivity.  Look at these spec's,  do some research, get a basic understanding and you'll be able to make a better choice on drivers based upon your needs