Building a house

Excellent! Lots of information to digest. Thanks everyone.

02-27-2021 6:15amHow does one go about computer modeling the room?

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DON’T settle, do it right. DON’T get sold a lot of shi$ you don’t need either.

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It only cost YOU money, just like I said. Watch your money and it will go a long ways..

You already have a GREAT model, now refine it.  If you notice what was said;

"all the computer simulations in the world won't be any replacement for in-room measurements and calibration once the system and furniture are actually in that room."

I'm gonna add get to know your room, listen. I have a room that was designed with IB in mind with built in equipment racks between the two 
They ARE 120 cf pockets HUGE. Traps and IB pockets.. That was the plan 35 years ago.. JUST now getting to it.. Broken necks, heart attacks and Covid.. Talk about the brakes getting applied..

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Though the suggestions are grand I also noticed this part also;

"answer to for excessive SPL's - money well-spent on the room versus spending it on a lawyer later."

When you hire someone to plan out your sound room, guess what, THEY screw up YOU have to get the Lawyer. The NOISE complaint will have nothing to do with them. It's a NOISE complaint, not a music complaint.

Now if the chandeliers start keeping beat in the neighbors house, when your listening to your 45s at 70 db that might be an issue.

As for doing it right first, you have, READ A BOOK and don't second guess your own ideas.

Just don't try to make round rooms work, they won't.

I read "Isolate the sound room" Horse pucky, studios are nice, so are integrated sound rooms, nothing I like more that to be able to hear music while I'm cooking.. I'm THE COOK. I OPEN two french doors and draw heavy curtains in front of that opening while in concert. They act as wiers. 

Windows? nothing wrong with windows or doors. Don't get hollow core doors and I don't think you can buy a cheap noisy window anymore, code won't let you..How they look that's up yo you. I want more than one way out. I don't enter rooms with ONE door EVER.. Have have a least a window and a stool, so I can break out the window.. NO EXEPTIONS!!

Regards

Don't use or allow nails.
Screws don't 'back out', esp. since new lumber is generally wet.  Unless you spec 'kiln dried' #1.  But screw everything anyway.

I've seen some really 'cretin' nail gun connections, to the point of a intersect looking like Pinhead on a 'bad hair day'...

If you live in an area prone to a lot of lightning, underground transmission lines and/or a master disconnect. Also, avoid anything outside that can conduct electricity. A strike can come from someplace other than the transmission lines (a reason a whole house surge protector is not as effective as "local" ones which are not as effective as unplugging the components.)

Completed my two channel listening room a bit over a year ago. The quality of silence is surprising; guests remarked upon it as soon as they entered, in pre-Covid days.

Dimensions. Snake oil abounds. Fortunately, the real science has been done, at the University of Salford (UK), in their School of Acoustics. The famous Cox teaches there. They ran 100,000's of simulations to arrive at optimal ratios - they found that MOST rectangular dimensions are bad, a quarter are OK, and a few percent are good.

Stereophile ran an article about two years ago on construction techniques. They stressed rigidity and glue. I used an elastomeric glue that never quite dries, and it's elastomeric counterpart caulking, called Build Secure and M1 respectively (from Chemlink).

Walls and ceiling used 6 layer drywall including an embedded layer of sheet steel, called Quietrock 545. The manufacturer is knowledgeable and very accommodating. Construction techniques are also discussed on their website.

Isolation transformers tend to hum when they are doing their job. Best to site them outside the listening room. Don't forget air lines - you just may end up with an air bearing TT or tonearm, or both.

Good luck!!!