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Tekton Design Moab

Ordered a pair just now. In Dark Gray, to which Tammy immediately said, "Oh the Charcoal is beautiful!" Charcoal sounds better than Dark Gray (even though we are talking about the same color!) so Charcoal it is!  

My beloved Talon Khorus do still sound awfully good. It will be interesting to see how the Moabs stock out of the box compare with these tweaked and modded warhorses. Both the strength, and the weakness, of the Khorus is using the 10" woofer to cover so much midrange. Its a strength because it makes for a very smooth and cohesive sound. But its a weakness because its asking a lot of such a large driver to go so high. Talon makes up for it with their isobaric design. Mounted inside and directly behind the woofer is another identical driver facing the opposite direction. The idea is this relieves the front facing driver of having to compress the air inside the cabinet. This does allow for a much faster response, and is a big reason for the wonderful music the Khorus produces. 

I have a feeling however it is no match for Eric Alexander's ultra-low mass driver array solution. Only one way to know for sure. So we will just have to see!  

 https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367 
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raysmtb1's avatar
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raysmtb1
792 posts
 
Congrats kesnel331 ! You will love the set up. I ordered mine bi-amp set up so I could bi-amp them. Did you do any special options? Ray
rixthetrick's avatar
rixthetrick
1,060 posts
 
@randym860 - thanks for your response, as I currently have only a single sub, what you said about changing the angle against being parallel shifted my thinking. I have one sub, but it's opposing firing with two drivers.
So now, I turned it so that one fires at something like 30/60 degrees with the front wall and the other firing 60/30 with the back, so that they chase each other around the room instead of cancelling.

Okay I moved them, now I need to play some tunes and experiment with what I already have. Cheers mate.

@millercarbon - actually I do remember most of what you told me, and the theory is still that for me until I get it happening and experience it, never quickly enough. I haven't forgotten, I'm still open to hearing (pun intended) other techniques though, as we all are.

@oldhvymec - apart from the fact you are a beast! Bear hugging a stack of subs to build a 375lb tower, that's beastly mate, fair dinkum.
I am fully sticking to 50 - 120lbs for subs thanks. However you did also remind me that elevation of subs from the floor like vertical 4-10 subs makes a difference as well.
And thank you for being the single responder, and with very good information about the servo amp/speakers.

Please recover quickly, so I can pick your brains for more info? Seriously, all the best mate.
ksnel331
30 posts
 
Yes Ray I did the $300 upgrade but no biamp and custom colors. Do you think I should bi-amp? Any one else have an opinion? Chuck didn’t. 
thecarpathian
4,163 posts
 
What is the extra cost to biamp?
If it is palatable to you, I would think having that option to use presently or in the future a worthwhile upgrade, especially if you feel it makes a positive difference in the sound.

rixthetrick's avatar
rixthetrick
1,060 posts
 
@thecarpathian - have you ever jumpered the terminals of a bi-amp loudspeaker? If so, was there any negative effect, if say ksnel331 wanted to use a single stereo amp at the moment, but open himself up to possibly biamp in the future?

[I am asking, I’ve never owned a biamp loudspeaker]

I’ve done full active with DSP and time alignment, amplifier chanel to each individual driver - but it was in quite possibly the worst possible audio environment, my car.
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