Tekton Design Moab


Ordered a pair just now. In Dark Gray, to which Tammy immediately said, "Oh the Charcoal is beautiful!" Charcoal sounds better than Dark Gray (even though we are talking about the same color!) so Charcoal it is!  

My beloved Talon Khorus do still sound awfully good. It will be interesting to see how the Moabs stock out of the box compare with these tweaked and modded warhorses. Both the strength, and the weakness, of the Khorus is using the 10" woofer to cover so much midrange. Its a strength because it makes for a very smooth and cohesive sound. But its a weakness because its asking a lot of such a large driver to go so high. Talon makes up for it with their isobaric design. Mounted inside and directly behind the woofer is another identical driver facing the opposite direction. The idea is this relieves the front facing driver of having to compress the air inside the cabinet. This does allow for a much faster response, and is a big reason for the wonderful music the Khorus produces. 

I have a feeling however it is no match for Eric Alexander's ultra-low mass driver array solution. Only one way to know for sure. So we will just have to see!  

 https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367 
128x128millercarbon
I look at it as the best of both worlds. Some will buy the speakers as is and be very happy with the great sound and value for money, and leave it at that. Others, like Miller, will take that basic well designed platform and raise it to a higher level through refinements. The tough part, which is the original design and crossover implementation has been done for you. 
I agree with you speedbump.  
jayctoy-
MC have you tried the MOAB on classical?

Yes, Clare de Lune was one of the first sides to go on. The Moab renders violin so good its made classical captivating. Massed strings now sound like what it is, a whole bunch of individual violins. Almost like you can pick out each one. Solo violin is electric. Like Eric says, there's electricity in the air. There is. For real. 

Classical is another one where you know he got the bass right because you get just the right vibe from the reverb in the hall. Where the instruments are placed, how deep and wide, is all down to the recording. The Moabs don't make anything any bigger, or smaller, than it is. I do get the impression their height contributes to the effect of scale. They don't make small scale sound big, but when the music does scale up boy do they ever deliver!

I have been jumping all over the place throwing everything at them and have yet to find anything they don't do well.

Ah, the "HoneyMoon Phase" of a new speaker.   We all remember it well :-)
It's tons of fun.
MC,

Heh, nah, what I meant by luck was you being able to drop the Moabs in where the Talons were originally or thereabouts.  On other threads I've read folks talk about struggling with placement after supposedly having the previous pair dialed in.  So, if it took you a few days even, LUCKY!  

Yeah, finding the right spot is a pain but also fun.  I remember girlfriends at the time struggling to understand why I kept moving the speakers, the couch, the orientation of the whole room, the pages of measurements, the tape on the floor, and my alleged obsession with certain tracks.  The Maggies have been the most forgiving between rooms, no dynamic speaker I've owned has been as easy to setup.  Getting the Moabs setup is going to be interesting.  I've read mostly that they aren't hard to setup, but then I've read a couple of reports that they were a bit difficult, however, the writing had some questionable or conflicting content so I'm not so sure what was going on there.

So about those traps/absorbers.  I was leaning more towards Roxul Safe N Sound.  By the numbers it should perform better than OC 703, even taking into account the 1" difference in thickness.  I'm aiming to do early reflection treatment and corner treatment.  I'm not sure how crazy I'm going to get, but my wife is in full support (we're both IT engineers).  I have a health concern with fiberglass existing outside of the wall.  The cats although they are pretty good with sticking to their scratching posts and such, and my wife had a bad experience with the stuff, so I'm going to sidestep that whole discussion and go for the Safe N Sound.   We're okay with the thickness. I started ordering GIK 5 1/4" absorbers and saw the cost getting out of control along with the shipping costs and wait time.  I need a project outside of work and saving a few bucks is really nice as well.  Money towards a DAC perhaps. 

Regards,
T
T, acoustics is an art. You kind of have to be there, hear the room, and speakers, and know what balance you want. Its real easy to over-do it on absorption and make the room too dead. First reflection for example can be handled with something as small as 12" dia panel, or a diffuser, or even something like a painting or panel hung at an angle. Anything to redirect, scatter, or absorb. Doesn't all have to be absorb. Better in fact if its not. Also first reflections aren't even that big a deal if the speakers are out several feet, enough so the first reflection is delayed a good 5ms or more. There's more than one way to skin that cat.

roxy54-
I look at it as the best of both worlds. Some will buy the speakers as is and be very happy with the great sound and value for money, and leave it at that. Others, like Miller, will take that basic well designed platform and raise it to a higher level through refinements. The tough part, which is the original design and crossover implementation has been done for you.
I agree with you speedbump6.

Its really amazing, this is the first time with speakers with no real flaws or problems to try and ameliorate. Years ago I hardly had any idea what to do or how to go about it. Take a few apart, mod a few crossovers, try some stuff, now I have a lot of great ideas. Not hunches or guesses either but stuff proven to work. Eric really did a great job with these. Its like buying a new 911: awesome right off the floor, now watch me tweak that PASM....whoa!

Okay. Fine. Great. But usually speakers are so hard to work on. First they try and make em look cool, which usually means lots of trim covering up screws so its a challenge even to figure out how to get in there. No such problem here. Then the cabs tend to be small and braced with chambers, so everything's all crammed in tight spaces. Here you look right in and there it is. Crossover mounted right out in the open, don't even have to take anything apart. Could hardly be easier.

What looks to be the hardest part so far, there's just a lot of drivers! I've ordered 3 packs of fO.q tape.