Watts and power

jerrybj160 posts :

And you’re, meaning ’you are’

And I can most certainly use "you are" instead of "you’re" if I so want to.

Is this just more verbal snake oil from you.

jerrybj160 posts:
Any tweaks I’m missing?

Upgraded over the last year:

Chokes on electrical items with a switched mode power supply
Halide Bridge USB to coaxial reclocker
Akiko Triple AC Power Enhancer
Audio Prism Ground Control spades on speakers
RCA shorting plugs for inputs on my amp.
Akiko Tuning Caps on amp outputs.
Akiko Fuse Box Tuning Chip.
1 x Shumann Resonator Chatres SE + power supply

1 x Schumann Resonator CHARTRES Mk3

Black Ravioli pads for amp, Dac and power supply

Vibrapod isolation cones and feet
Akiko Universal Tuning Sticks on speaker cables.
iFi AC iPurifier.
MCRU Mains Filtration plug
Mad Scientist Nitro Nano power cables.
’LOA audio tweak’ chip.
Signal Ground solutions SGS-1 Groundng Box.
3 x Bybee iQSE - one on power board.
High Fidelity Cables MC-0.5
XLR Noise Stopper Caps.
Russ Andrews ’The Silencer.’
Audioquest Jitterbug.
iFi USB Silencer.
SR Orange fuses

PPT Omega + EMat to trial

Mad Scientist Graphene Contact Enhancer to apply
Mad Scientist Donuts coming.

Georgehifi
"Your just as bad as sunshine..."
And I can most certainly use "you are" instead of "you’re" if I so want to.

So, one of the most unpleasant posters on here continues to show his limited understanding of English grammar.

Just watch the personal attack come back...

I have a pair of Ralphs Atma-Sphere amps.

The last thing the signal (music) sees are two large 27,000uF storage supply caps. One for each phase of the sinusoidal waveform.

As my amps where getting older, I replaced the stock output caps with Mundorf high current ones.

The high current aspect controls my Acoustic Elegance 15 inch woofers like nothing I've ever heard.

Ralph, is it possible some amps have too low an omph factor?. 

I remember years ago, some amps had 60,000 + uF of storage?

I always looked at wattage between Classes of Amps like horsepower.
Some cars have high horse power with very low torque.
some have lower horsepower with Higher torque.
Torque is WATT moves The car.

I don’t care about all the mumbo jumbo on how things are calculated just like I don’t care about how cubic inches relates to horsepower. IME, quality SS amps that doubles its power from 8 ohms down to 2 have been better sounding amps to me. Tube amps sound like they produce more power than its ratings vs SS amps but the tube amps I’ve had or I’ve listened to can’t control the bass drivers compared to SS amps.
Nobody here has mentioned anything about how McIntosh amps state there ratings. Most of their higher end models produce the same watts at each ohm. They have autoformers/power guard systems that others don’t, good or bad.
I have tested this watt vs current scenario using my old Totem Mani II’s that are very difficult to drive. This was 15 years ago, I had a 200 watt Classe 200 amp that doubles down for each ohm. In my home theater room, I had an audio receiver with a 200 watt rating but didn’t double down or even close. The audio receiver made the Totems sound thin and lifeless. I Took my Totems to my friends audio room that we hooked them up to a pair of Mcintosh 1000 watt monoblocks and they sounded fantastic at very high spl levels. I think the mani’s state wattage up to 150 watts and we were well over 240 watts according to the meters on the amps.
I’ve tried many times trying to get buy with integrated amps claiming they have good wattage with high damping claims, but always end up with a separate amp that has the same wattage as the integrated but has much more power that controls the speakers much better than the integrated