Watts and power


Can somebody break it down in layman's terms for me? Why is it that sometimes an amp that has a high watt rating (like, say, a lot of class D amps do) don't seem to always have the balls that much lower rated A or AB amps do? I have heard some people say, "It's not the watts, it's the power supply." Are they talking about big honkin' toroidal transformers? I know opinions vary on a speaker like, say, Magnepans - Maggies love power, right? A lot of people caution against using class D amps to drive them and then will turn around and say that a receiver like the Outlaw RR2160 (rated at 110 watts into 8 ohms) drives Maggies really well! I'm not really asking about differences between Class D, A, or AB so much as I am asking about how can you tell the POWER an amp has from the specs? 
128x128redstarwraith

Showing 26 responses by georgehifi

I don’t care what a gullible snake oil voodooist thinks. Because whatever they say is BS.
And what you have done here to your system below is most probably the ultimate I’ve seen in voodoo BS



jerrybj Any tweaks I’m missing?

Upgraded over the last year:

Chokes on electrical items with a switched mode power supply
Halide Bridge USB to coaxial reclocker
Akiko Triple AC Power Enhancer
Audio Prism Ground Control spades on speakers
RCA shorting plugs for inputs on my amp.
Akiko Tuning Caps on amp outputs.
Akiko Fuse Box Tuning Chip.
1 x Shumann Resonator Chatres SE + power supply

1 x Schumann Resonator CHARTRES Mk3

Black Ravioli pads for amp, Dac and power supply

Vibrapod isolation cones and feet
Akiko Universal Tuning Sticks on speaker cables.
iFi AC iPurifier.
MCRU Mains Filtration plug
Mad Scientist Nitro Nano power cables.
’LOA audio tweak’ chip.
Signal Ground solutions SGS-1 Groundng Box.
3 x Bybee iQSE - one on power board.
High Fidelity Cables MC-0.5
XLR Noise Stopper Caps.
Russ Andrews ’The Silencer.’
Audioquest Jitterbug.
iFi USB Silencer.
SR Orange fuses

PPT Omega + EMat to trial

Mad Scientist Graphene Contact Enhancer to apply
Mad Scientist Donuts coming.



You have no idea, all you know is how to stalk someone and put **** on something else they do for a living that’s not even related to this thread.
Go away and stop your stalking, you are a pest for a new not even 1 month old member.
hifihottie
For most speakers, the amperage is more important than the wattage. This is one area in which most class D amps fall short of a class A or AB amp with an oversized linear power supply.
Correct, and why you’ll find it hard to see specs for "doubling wattage" + distortion with Class-D into 2ohms with "comparison made" to it’s 8ohm and 4ohm figure.
They have things inhibiting it, one is the output filter and the second is that they are mosfet output, and as you say power supplies in many are average to say the least.


https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/power-current-how-much-is-realistic/post?postid=1863634#1863634
Here’s hypothetical to ponder over (without bashing Class-D anymore), but on amperage.

Take the two 20w-8ohm amps I linked to above, give them both higher rails and higher voltageoutputs and whatever else, so they can both now do 500w!!!! into 8ohms instead of 20w.

Into speakers such as the Wilson Alexia’s the Mark Levinson ML2’s would still blow away the Nad-3020, even though now both are 500w, and it’s because of current the ML can give over the Nad down into 2ohm loading.

Cheers George

And this one🤷‍♂️, well what can I say but, new/old product protection mode?

Looks like we'll never see an amp from him that can give hopefully give more than 50% wattage from 4ohms down to 2ohms especially the "old amps" the "new amp" when it released "may"??  if all the stars are lined up.

The classic statement from him was,  "Our OTLs do a nice job on the Wilson Alexia"
This is what that would look like (amp being the bulge).
  https://images.boredomfiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/14-woman-sleeps-with-python-731x457.jpeg
   
Cheers George  
audiozenology"I do know for a fact it puts out 75% more power into 2 ohms than it does into 4 ohms."
clearthink That is a very interesting statement, assertion, and claim how do you know this to be true? This is like you’re other pronouncements where you state something as ’fact" but offer no proof


He has no idea.
If what he said were true everyone that calls themselves an audiophile would be using them, and there would be no need for Krell’s, Gryphon’s Agostino’s, ect that can come close doubling from 4 to 2ohm, we all be using this $349 3000w Behringer he’s touting or similar. Like I said, he has no idea, all he's good for is beating his chest and stalking.

Cheers George
millercarbon
Can somebody break it down in layman's terms for me?
In a layman analogy for you.

These speakers, one of the worst load a speaker has ever measured. .9ohm EPDR
https://paragonsns2.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Alexia-S2-Cove-Mariposa-Silver-5.jpg?w=1024...

Which amp will drive them the best?

This 175w Gryphon Antillion that almost doubles to 1ohm?
https://gryphon-audio.dk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ANTILEON_1.jpg

Or this 17 x times more powerful into 4ohms 3000w!!! Behringer Class-D that seriously get current starved and goes backwards into 2ohms
  https://www.storedj.com.au/behringer-nx3000-ultra-lightweight-3000w-class-d-power-amplifier?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuJ-N8_fe5gIVjDgrCh1W0gqmEAQYAiABEgJjnfD_BwE

The choice is your
Cheers George
phase angles
EPDR = 0.9ohm load to the amp for the Alexia’s, do it for yourself, you’ll see it.
wolf_garcia
Wolf, if you have a sample and hold oscilloscope, you can measure peaks, we did it to the Alexia’s powered up playing orchestral at normal medium level with the Gryphon Antillion, and saw amp peaks after conversion of 80amps+
Cheers George
clearthink And the result, of such "modern manufacturing" is a product that sounds awful but hey it’s a "lower margin market" so that is to be anticipated and expected.

If it existed it would be PA, junk and it wouldn’t be getting it’s 1500w from a well designed amp with great current ability that can double down from 325w @ 8ohm and 750w @ 4ohms.
No, the 1500w would be the result of residue from current starvation from an amp that was originally 6000w or 8000w at 8 or 4ohms, and it would sound like junk

Cheers George

sfischer1

+1 you have your finger on the pulse, and know about current delivery and wattage doubling, also about bridging stereo amps.
Others here that say a $350 3000w Behringer amp solves all that are just p*****g against the wind and some just beating their own commercial drum.

Cheers George
jerrybj160 posts :

And you’re, meaning ’you are’

And I can most certainly use "you are" instead of "you’re" if I so want to.

Is this just more verbal snake oil from you.

jerrybj160 posts:
Any tweaks I’m missing?

Upgraded over the last year:

Chokes on electrical items with a switched mode power supply
Halide Bridge USB to coaxial reclocker
Akiko Triple AC Power Enhancer
Audio Prism Ground Control spades on speakers
RCA shorting plugs for inputs on my amp.
Akiko Tuning Caps on amp outputs.
Akiko Fuse Box Tuning Chip.
1 x Shumann Resonator Chatres SE + power supply

1 x Schumann Resonator CHARTRES Mk3

Black Ravioli pads for amp, Dac and power supply

Vibrapod isolation cones and feet
Akiko Universal Tuning Sticks on speaker cables.
iFi AC iPurifier.
MCRU Mains Filtration plug
Mad Scientist Nitro Nano power cables.
’LOA audio tweak’ chip.
Signal Ground solutions SGS-1 Groundng Box.
3 x Bybee iQSE - one on power board.
High Fidelity Cables MC-0.5
XLR Noise Stopper Caps.
Russ Andrews ’The Silencer.’
Audioquest Jitterbug.
iFi USB Silencer.
SR Orange fuses

PPT Omega + EMat to trial

Mad Scientist Graphene Contact Enhancer to apply
Mad Scientist Donuts coming.



An amp that doubles it’s 8 ohm output into 4 ohms should sound better than one that doesn’t.
And one that doubles from 4 to 2 will also sound better again especially on speakers that dive into low 3-2ohms

Cheers George
Yawn, again, you have no idea an have your head ** **** ****
https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/scared-ostrich-burying-head-sand-260nw-232433350.jpg
. Keep listening to your $350 3000watt Behringer


audiozenology
but if anyone is stalking, you are stalking me. I posted 6 times in this thread before you did.
And BTW sunshine, not one of my posts were addressed to anything you said in your first 6 posts You are the stalker. Now please don’t stalk!!! Can I make that any clearer

You don’t seem to have actual amplifier architecture design experience.


Have a better look, and include Class-A and water cooling.
http://corrimalregion.unitingchurch.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/image2.jpg


You adapted the compression circuit from mixers to make a pre-amp billed as passive, though technically not passive.
Wrong again, once again you’ve gone "completely off thread subject" and dare to attack my product (remember what happened last time), again do a search back to the 1970’s when I first introduced it into audio.

Also the signal goes through nothing but a passive device called a Cadmium Photo Cell (CdS cell) that chemically changes it’s characteristics with any sort of light exposure, and which has no electrical active properties running through it at all. https://ibb.co/JmQS31T
All this little baby needs is light to make it work, so it’s totally passive
https://ibb.co/Q6jKBGZ

Maybe this is a more apt description.
https://image.shutterstock.com/image-photo/scared-ostrich-burying-head-sand-260nw-232433350.jpg
Yeah whatever, do a search to see what I’ve built in the passed, it may open your eye’s, as for now you can see the forest for the trees, just like in your passed life.


Who asked you and what was that last post in aid of, to incite more conflict? cretin.
I wouldn’t say too much with your reputation for being an "anti Pass Labs" advocate starting threads and posting on it. While at the same time praising anything Class-D.

Your just as bad as sunshine above, no, worse he likes Pass Labs, even though they are Mosfet. 
Oh come on George, I don’t know any amplifier vendor that publishes independent data, only reviewer data.
When I say that it’s Stereophile, Miller Labs, Newport Test Labs ,ect ect and like that are independent that give you the truth. If you want to believe the BS many manufacturers give you that’s your problem.

As more and more these days the manufacturers are "grossly understating their 8ohm wattage" to make the the 4ohm look like it’s closer to doubling, same goes for the 4ohm to the 2ohm, and Stereophile test confirm it.
And if you don’t know this then you’ve been hiding under a rock, and can’t see the forest for the trees. But I already knew this.

It’s easy to drive into 2 ohms with complimentary MOSFETs.
You will not get anywhere near the current performance what same amount of complimentary BJT’s can do into 2ohms. That’s why all the very best amps that deliver huge current into 2ohms are all BJT (bi-polar) again your under a rock


Class-D and complimentary mosfets poweramps fall down miserably when asked to deliver current into 2ohms so they can double the wattage all the way.
That's why they never advertise "true" independently tested  8, 4, 2ohm wattage's just before clipping, because the 2 usually goes backward in wattage, indicating sever current starvation or limiting.

Cheers George  

I've never heard one of these, I like that they used Bi-Polars (BJT's) to achieve this performance into low impedance's as complimentary mosfets would have trouble doing these sort of figures.
  
While a neat idea, I question the lower voltage rail, then high voltage rail used when even wattage is required for transients or louder passages, as the "sound" characteristics of those output transistors will be different for those two voltages used, I don't know if this is easily detectable while listening or not.

Cheers George
sejodiren
There’s a guy on CL selling this Proton ’beast’. What’s your impression of the review? He wants $750 for it.

This if in good working order >25 years old now (any bad caps have been renewed) it should be a good BJT (bi-polar) amp, at least if the specs are right (typo 175w should be 275w), and increases it’s wattage substantially for each halving of impedance all the way to 2ohms. BTW nice twin R-Core transformer also.
"The D1200’s output clipped at rms
155 watts into 8 ohms
275 watts into 4 ohms
350 watts into 2 ohms

With peaks of
593 watts - 8ohms
1,187watts - 4ohms
1,800 watts - 2ohms,

Here is a great video test clip this guy did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DL8R-vJRo54&feature=youtu.be


Cheers George
Your selective cut and paste and your mention of phase angle shows you neither understand my post nor amplifier specs.
No it is you that has no understanding sir, as the combined loading the amp sees, of -phase angle plus low impedance can look a very much harsher load to the amp than just the low impedance alone. And you need amps that can almost keep doubling their wattage for each halving of load impedance to drive them well and if the said speaker is high efficiency but has that evil loading (as Alexia ect have) then you don't need so many watts but still need the double of those watts to signify current.

Like said listen to the Alexia driver by the 3000w Behringer then with the 25w ML2's  

I don’t care for what you say, you need amps that can almost double down for each halving of impedance, not ones that actually halve their wattage and go backwards!! with current sag limiting into hard loads.

Next you’ll be telling me that a 100w OTL tube amp will drive the Alexia better than the 25w ML2.

You stick with your $400 3000w Class-D’s, and go spruik your views on a PA sites instead where you’ll make a dent
and 150 into 8, is still better than 200 into 2 ohms,
Good luck finding a speaker that is a flat 8ohm pure resistive load, with no -phase angle

You listen to your $420 3000w Behringer Class-D’s, I’ll take the ML2’s any day of the week over the Behringer into quality speakers that are hard to drive.


There will be absolutely nothing anemic about it compared to the ML2
You listen to one on the Alexia's, then you'll know.
Listen to what your saying and we’d all using $420 3000w class-d PA amps
redstarwraith
Why is it that sometimes an amp that has a high watt rating (like, say, a lot of class D amps do) don’t seem to always have the balls that much lower rated A or AB amps do?


It’s to do with current ability, not just watts, you can get a 3000!! watt Class-D here
https://djcity.com.au/product/behringer-nx3000-power-amp-with-smart-sense/

And into a pair of Wilson Alexia or similar speaker with low impedance’s to a given volume level, that 3000w will sound positively weak and anemic, compared to say a pair of 25 watt Mark Levinson ML2’s, yes that’s not a typo, only 25w!!

Current is just as important if not more than watts, and an amp that can almost double it’s tested 8ohm wattage for each halving of impedance 4ohm then 2ohm or even 1ohm is an amp that can do current very well


Cheers George