Best type of Sub to consider?

ricred1 and gdnrbob,
Thanks. I have only been looking at sealed subs, and even in that category, there are all these different types. So, why I posted.

Dan,
Yes, I completely read your comments about your success with your Tannoys and Crown, so thank you. You're right, here I go again finding my way around.

I really love my Hsu Research ULS-15 Mk II sealed subwoofer.  It works very well with my listening, as well as with movies.  Here's  link to my review on the sub:

http://http//www.ayllonmedia.com/1/post/2015/10/does-the-hsu-fit-a-look-at-the-uls-15-mk2-subwoofer.html

Good luck,


Juan 

I greatly prefer the sealed over ported subs in almost all cases. I like the JL audio subs alot, after them the RELs.  The REL hookup procedure is nice if you dont have the outputs on your preamp, or dont want to purchase extra cables. In my experience subs have have improved soundstage presentation in every system I've had them in. Good luck

Juan - Thanks, but the link you provided is not working.

Tom - Good information. I wasn't thinking so much about the hookup. One of the brands I am considering is sealed, and the cable it comes with connects directly to my Horning speaker posts. Then, I read on another brand's website that this is an inferior design flaw. So, another can-of-worms that can be opened up.

I have to think, that if I owned full-range speakers with forward firing built-in woofers, I'd be in good shape. However, many full-range speakers place their woofers in different locations, so on the sides and in the rear, like mine. These different designs must be designed around an ideal room layout. My Hornings want corners because they're rear ported, for example. This makes me want to believe that stand-alone subs are the same, so how they fire should make a difference to how the room is laid out.

In contemplating the right fit for my room, my best guess would be to use forward firing subs, and to try placing them almost up against the inside sides of my Horning speakers. If not a design flaw, it would then be easiest to connect the subs directly to the Hornings. However, in doing this post, I'm trying to extract the science of these different designs, so to take some of the guesswork out and reduce the number of subs to try.

As to adding subs in the first place, I have always been a purist and never cared for them. This is mostly from way back in the day when I could not find coherency in the combination. I realize, that I'm going to have to put out some serious coin to keep up with my Hornings. In these current times, I have been blown over after listening to the likes of the big Cessaro's, for example, with their add-on and powered subs. So, matching becomes critical, and I want to believe today, that a combination can improve my sound quality.

l have also heard, that there are audiophiles out there who are using subs with their Horning speakers. Are there any of you out there?
Kenny

One of the brands I am considering is sealed, and the cable it comes with connects directly to my Horning speaker posts. Then, I read on another brand’s website that this is an inferior design flaw. So, another can-of-worms that can be opened up.

In most cases connecting a sub that provides speaker-level inputs to the terminals on your speakers will work fine. The circumstances I can envision in which it would not be a good idea, and might result in hum, noise, or other issues, would be:

1)If the amp(s) driving the speakers have outputs that are balanced, meaning that both the negative and positive output terminals have signals on them.

2) If the amp(s) driving the speakers have outputs that are bridged, meaning that both the negative and positive output terminals have signals on them.

3)In a few cases, such as certain ARC balanced amplifier designs, where the amp’s circuit ground is connected to its 4 ohm output terminal, rather than to the "common" output terminal.

4)In the case of certain older class D amplifier designs, where both the + and - output terminals of the amp are offset from ground by a large DC voltage.

In all other cases, which comprise the majority of amp designs, I don’t think there would be any problem at all doing that.

Regards,
-- Al