Do I really need Desoldering for replacing resistors/caps?

Thank you very much everyone for good advice.

Recapping looks deceptively easy. Desoldering guns work great on through hole points but not where snap in components are soldered to voltage or ground planes -- the planes suck up the heat from the gun and it takes longer to melt the solder, if it does at all. You will have to suck away solder, resolder to build another heat bridge and repeat the process -- all the while tugging at the cap to get it loose. You then have to make sure you don't rip out the hole plating -- which can happen if there is not enough heat to melt the solder in the hole.

To remove caps from voltage planes requires a heat gun or a rework station. The planes have to be pre-heated to the point where you see the solder waving a bit, then you can apply the desolder gun and that puppy will fall right out. Same thing to solder the new cap -- preheat the plane and the cap leads and then quickly get the iron on the cap lead/plane and melt a few inches of solder on it.

Also, ARC products are not very friendly for repairing. They tend to overlap capacitors (the expensive Rel-Caps) over resistors on opposite sides of the board requiring you to remove those perfectly good caps to get to the resistor holes to desolder and solder. Also, they run a lot of wiring and they solder them to a common point -- and under no circumstance try to remove those unless you have a heavy duty industrial gun. If they get in your way you may be stuck.

Be prepared to spend some time. It took me the better part of two weekends to recap my AR 100.2 -- and I have all the bells and whistles and can solder in my sleep. Problem is I had to disassemble a lot of things to get to where I could access the components, including removing the expensive Rel-Caps. That job would have been impossible with just an iron and a roll of wick.

Simply use a $5 solder sucker. Heat up the solder joint and simply use the solder sucking gun to remove the solder. Very easy and effective. 

I used $5 solder sucker and figured that desoldering iron works substantially faster and better.
Using solder sucker might require extra helping hands.

You will need a decent iron to melt the existing solder.  Make sure it can get hot enough and more importantly has a tip of sufficient mass depending on how much metal is connected to the joint you are heating.  I would skip the desoldering irons as it is basically a soldering iron (which you will need to buy anyway for reinstalling your caps) attached to a bulb pump. 

Then all you need is a solder sucker to remove the old caps.  I've used the cheap plastic $5 ones but the one I recommend is the Engineer SS-02.

http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

It has a flexible silicone tip that can withstand the heat of the iron.  Just place that sucker (no pun intended) over the whole joint while your iron is on it, and it will form a seal around it for effect solder removal.