This is just one of those things you have to try and decide for yourself.
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Tp is correct. However, there are a few different connections you can try. I always connect to the HF taps, then jump to the others. Many folks do it the other way around. I have bi-wired before with no discernible audio difference. YMMV. And, of course, cost enters into the equation. The place where I found bi & tri-wired speakers to make a difference is if they were bi or tri-amped. Enjoy.
At the cost of your speaker cable, stick with just one and jump them. If you put out the cash for 2 more pairs and you will probably not hear a big (if any... honestly) difference you will regret the purchase. Sometimes we itch to spend on our hobby, but I would look in another direction in your system.
I used to own tri-wired Alons. Used their own tri-wire cables, and some I made from DH Labs stuff. Also tried them bi-wired. Most of the related articles indicate the benefit to bi-wiring comes from separating the woofer cable from the MF/HF cable(s). Therefore, you might try a typical bi-wire cable with the LF wires (if they are different as some are) connected to the LF terminals and the HF wires connected to the MF or HF terminals and then those two sets of terminals (MF and HF) jumped together, preferably with good quality jumpers similar to the cables you are using or with a decent piece of 18 awg or smaller wire.
Bi-wiring my Silverline Preludes resulted in my learning what Alan Yun meant (in a phone conversation) by "less coherant". Bi-wiring is clearly speaker/amp/personal taste specific as Yun, in the case of the Preludes anyway, was right, and high quality single wire sounds much better than bi-wiring did with my Preludes.