Oyaide or Furutech plugs

Hi everybody,

I'm currently thinking about buying a new DIY mains cable.
It will probably go to my headphone amp (Viva Egoista 845) or maybe to my DAC (Weiss Medea+).

I made my choice about the cable itself, I'd like to try the Furutech FP-TCS31.

But I have some hesitation about the plugs, between the recent gold Furutech FI-28/38 (G) and the Oyaide P004/C004 (beryllium/palladium).

I'm looking for some very liquid and smooth sound, with no spike/highlight in the treble or in the high-medium which could sound agressive.

Did some of you try these plugs and could help me to choose by giving me some infos about the differences?

Best regards,
Go to The Audio Asylum and under the Tweaks category on the title line say Attn: Duster. Then ask the same question in the message area. Duster will be able to answer your question.

I've had both 

Audio differences were imperceptiible .

just go pick one ....full stop. 
My experience with Furutech locking bananas was so bad I'll never use them again, so my vote is going to be anything BUT Furutech.


Thank you for your answers.
No problem for me if the plugs are difficult to use, I won't build the cable myself, I'll pay a professional to do so.
Great, I'll go with the FI-28 and FI-38 (G) since they are less expensive than the Oyaide plugs.

Well, actually I now have some hesitation about the cable, between the FP-TCS31 and the older FP-3TS762, which is described as very good for big amplifiers.
Do you have some recommandations/preferences between these two cables? Price does not matter.
I'm searching for the smoothest and creamiest possible cable, with no rise in the high medium or treble and which won't be too thin in the bass department.
Don't want to steer you away from the Furutech if you're set on it, but I've had good DIY results on tube/hybrid power amp with Acrolink 7N P4030II. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACROLINK-7N-P4030II-Stressfree-Power-Cable-Sold-By-1Meter-Each-Cut-100-Genu... Very smooth and detailed, with good bass.  And 7N P4020III on all things digital.  Oyaide connectors (I'm using P/C-004) are a bit pricey, but are rock solid.
I'd choose Oyaide. There's a lot of evidence that suggests Furutech is actually a Taiwanese company rather than Japanese, with a lot of their products being made in Taiwan. 
I like Furutech because pure copper is used as opposed to berillium copper used by Oyaide.  VH Audio has a lot of info about plugs and other components used by audio people.
+1 VH Audio, Chris just made me a Furutech FP-S032N with F1-11 gold connectors and it sounds fantastic. He was extremely helpful answering questions as well. Furutech makes great products I could care less if they are from Japan or Taiwan thought I've seen no evidence of the latter.
I ended buying a FP-TCS31 with FI-28(g) and FI-e38(g) plugs.
I’m very happy with this cable. Maybe not as wide as my FP-3TS20 but warmer, thicker sound and great bass. The treble is less stressed. There is the same smooth midrange sound, which seems to be the house sound from Furutech.
I think it’s my best cable up to date.
I use it with my preamp and my tube headphone amp with much pleasure.

Thanks for your help.
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Huh, I missed this thread earlier this year. I have noticed that erik_squires always has a "knee jerk" reaction to mention of Furutech because of his bad experience with bananas. I have found Furutech to be probably the best quality and mechanical design connectors. I did not use their upper end "locking banana plugs", but their basic banana plugs are excellent to use and set-screw / solder onto. Their A/C plugs are the best mechanical design I have found and they are very easy to work with.

The gold plated Furutech offerings are excellent. They do produce the sound that you describe - high frequencies are there, but smooth and subdued, bass and midbass are very thick and warm, very smooth midrange. The rhodium plated will be more revealing, more high frequency response, tighter and deeper bass, more resolution overall in the sound.

@elizabeth - I use 100% all Furutech rhodium connectors for everything nowadays (power cord, interconnects, speaker, fuses). That’s the only way I have found to get the most resolution and detail as well as keep things as neutral as possible. Be prepared for a very long break-in period. With a power cord connector, you might be happy within 200 hours, but rhodium actually takes 400+ hours to burn in fully before it settles down. It depends on the resolution of your system, but I have had scenarios where the rhodium was still bright/harsh during the 300-350 hour period.

The Wattage are nice "budget" connectors, but since they are brass, they push too hard on the voltage and the sound becomes harsh/bright.

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