Dual 701 pops fuse.


I recently bought a Dual 701 TT. Cleaned up nice but the T125mA fuse on the power supply board was blown. Put another higher rated fuse to see if it ran, yes it does. Put in a 500mA I had and played for a little while and it popped. So is the .047uF cap the culprit or could the EDS1000 motor be drawing more current than it should. I am not a techie, please keep it simple. Thanks.
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Purchased a dual from the 5 and dime with the same blown fuse issue. However, this dual would not spin after fuse replacement. The strobe light illuminated. Dissected it and found 2 caps on the power/speed supply. Replaced the small one first. Nada. Replaced the big one second. Bingo. Regarding yours, maybe remove the belt and see how long the motor will spin before blowing the fuse? If the fuses does not blow, maybe a bearing issue?
Hope its fixable as its ancient history.Good luck though.
It is a direct drive, No belt.
Remembering back, the other thing I did was jumper in a laptop power supply bypassing the onboard power supply. It functioned properly with the laptop supply thereby narrowing down the problem. There are some other sites that do deep dives on this topic. Karma maybe? Or diy? It’s been a while. This Dual is still in rotation. A Dual was my first table so.....
Perhaps you realize that overall it is not wise to cure a problem with fuses blowing by inserting a much larger capacity fuse. So first you blew a 125 mA fuse and then you were able to blow a 500 mA fuse. I would stop right there. Perhaps so far you were lucky and have done no damage. But now you need to find out why the motor is pulling so much current. One question is whether 125 mA or even 500 mA was the original value of that fuse, in a unit that is so old. It is possible that somewhere along the way someone replaced a larger fuse with a too small 125mA fuse. In which case there would be nothing wrong with your unit except the fuse current rating. See if you can find an owners manual that states what that fuse value should be. Is my suggestion. Also, is the motor designed to run on 120 V, assuming you are in the US or another country that uses that standard?
The fuse rating may also need to be double checked. Thinking back, some of the manuals had the fuse rating for the USA and Europe as the same. In other words, incorrect. Read the specs carefully. Again, those other sites lay most of this information out there. 
T 125mA is marked on the board & in the manual on VE.com. I did not run it very long with the higher fuse value. It is wired for 110V.
Have you found this site? http://www.fixmydual.com/They may be able to help.  That's a fine turntable.
Yes, sent him an email. If I can't sort this out to will go to Bill.
"Bill" is Bill Thalmann?  If so, you are in good hands.
Waiting on parts. A stupid pimple & fuse. The SM states it is a T125 mA 250V slow blow fuse. I’ll put that in when they arrive. Haven’t touched it till then. Give it a thorough clean & lube. Hopefully I’ll get it going to speed. A little confused on the advice I have got on the 0.047uF cap on the power board. Should I go ahead & replace it or not. Could it be the cause of the fuse popping originally?
Replacing the cap is easy, try. Think Thalmann is your best bet.