The reason why is because the SR Black fuse is an impressive product that improved the sound stage and imaging each time that I added one to my set up. My set up currently uses one in the DAC and two in the amp and it will soon have one in the power supply of my computer. Its worth a try whether or not it sounds good. Experimenting is what makes this "mod-it-yourself" hobby really fun.
I tweaked the 120vac/19vdc converter/power supply to my system’s laptop. Since a SR Black costs more than my used PS (c/o Ebay), I took it a step further and by-passed the fuse holder completely. There’s a circuit breaker upstream in my balanced power conditioner for emergencies.
Computer sourced music kicks a lot of digital backwash into the audio chain. If you have a laptop, listen to a track via the internal battery vs the connected PS. If a vocalist sounds ‘hard’ or ‘crispy’ when they belt it out (with the PS connected), then digititus is still present. I inserted one of these, ICT PCM-12 ADL, in-line between the laptop and PS. It helped.
The project has been completed with a few changes:
Am I able to hear changes or improvements as a result of this project? There is absolutely no doubt about it! This what I hear:
I expected to hate the sound of the rhodium IEC but I'm surprised that the tonality didn't change.
It's possible that this project provided only 1 improvement which is the black background. The sound stage focus, improved 3D imaging, more detail, and smoother sound are by-products of the black background.
Congratulations on your experiments and very positive results! There is a lot that can be done to improve the computer music system. The Synergistic Research Black Fuse will make a real difference and combining that with the Fidelizer software program (which optimizes Windows to play better music) will give a real sonic change.
The computer is an incredibly electrically noisey device. Adding Synergistic Research Electronic Circuit Transducers (ECT's) to the computer will help diminish this noise.
Good luck on computer tweaking and please keep us posted on your results.
Thank you fellas for the suggestions. I might try the Fidelizer software and SR ECT. I would like to give a suggestion to other DIY hobbyists to look into using tin or silver plated beryllium copper fuse clips from Littlefuse or Eaton Bussman as shown in the link below:
@gdnrbob 4 items were replaced in the second stage of mods so I can't say what exactly provided benefits if any. I think the AH fuse provided at least 85% of the improvement that resulted from this project judging from my previous experience with SR Black fuses.
I believe I can hear the differences between the AH Platinum fuses vs. the SR Black fuses. The AH fuses are a bit forward sounding (in a good way) and that produces focused / solid images in the sound stage. The SR Black fuses do not sound as dense. The mid range and treble sound "delicate" or "light" (in a good way). Both of these fuses provide improvements to the sound stage and imaging which is very important to me and both of these fuses are in the upper echelon of system tweaks.
I heard these differences when I first listened to my computer with the new AH fuse and especially after Friday night when I installed 2 AH fuses into my amp.
OP, I suggest you consider using Audiophile Optimizer on top of Windows--especially Windows Server 2012 R2. The program is offered with a 2 week trial. The improvement to sound quality, especially when run in "core" mode, is unmistakeable and wonderful. There is a sponsored forum about this on Computer Audiophile.
I recently purchased a new computer and performed the basic fuse mod where I installed a copper alloy fuse block and the new SR Blue fuse. This was definitely an upgrade. Background noise has dropped, images are slightly more 3D, and improved image focus. The fuse block that I used is shown in the link below:
I plan to replace a pair of .47uf ps filter caps with 1uf Aura-T teflon caps in the near future.
I have done extensive work on my PC over the past couple of years with very positive results. First thing I did was to install RFI clamps on every wire inside the PC, both signal and power lines. The result was incredible , that gave an instant improvement in background noise. It was decreased by an amazing amount in that very low sounds like parts of the woodwind in the orchestra became more apparent and when say three instruments were playing together you could deliniate each intrument with greater detail and soundstage was more pinpoint also. I also made vast differencies to jitter reduction in the software side of things. I got in touch with a company called Laufer technic and got lots of jitter busting softwarefrom them. They do software known as IDEAS 1, 2, and 3. each targeting separate parts of the PC. The software has to be installed by a technician and my one was Mike Porzilli who actually invented the software. Mike is the man behind The Memory Player of which you will no doubt know of. He takes over your PC for an hour or so and installs the software however much of it you want to buy at the time. I would advise 1 and 2 first and then if you want the rest a bit at a time. The sound of your files after the first install is incredible, in that everything sounds so much cleaner and more focussed. In that software he also partitions a part of your hard drive to 4 gig. and that is where the software works from. To play a file through your PC now you have to drag or download your file to the hard drive and play it from there. The biggest difference you notice at first is the treble in that I have lost that digital glare that jitter causes and has been the bane of our life for 30 years. Each intake of more software from Mike opens up the PC akin to what a better mains cable produces each time you add another one to your set up. I am now the proud owner of a fabulous set up that I have not heard bettered. One last thing I had to send my head amp for sevicing and I had my JPS Kaptovator lying about so I stuck it into the power supply of my PC along with an SR Black fuse. I now have to save up for a new Kapto for my head amp now.