Yep. Have two of 'em for my 300B monoblocks. Love 'em to death...MUCH better than stock. Haven't tried any other cords but my Dad tried 'em against his Black Mamba and said that while the Black Mamba was better, it wasn't by much. Now that your into DIY, you need to build some Risch Twisted Pair IC's. They'll blow your mind for 50 bucks. Cheers! |
While i haven't tried one of the DIY ( Do It Yourself ) Power cords that Bob "designed", i have tried several of his other ( TG Audio ) manufactured cords with good success. While the "DIY" cable is VERY different in design, there is no reason that it should not function quite well as it uses high quality parts.
I have built dozens of the IC's that Hueske makes mention of. They are PHENOMENAL for the money involved. Depending on how elaborate you want to get on cosmetics and the RCA connectors that you use, you can build a 3' stereo pair for well under $30.
I would encourage ANYBODY that can follow simple directions and is not afraid to try soldering to take a stab at doing some of these or other similar DIY projects. The results, sound, pride and savings will make you a FIRM believer in "Do It Yourself" audio once and for all. Sean
> |
Yep, I have built my share of these as it is what led me on the road to ruin twenty years ago....The cord is cheap, fast and easy to build. Up until about five years ago few commercial cords could compete with the recipe now known as the Asylum cord......Break-in is a little rough at a 720 hours (30 days 24/7), but it settles down after about 125 hours and is listenable through the entire process...It likes to be off the floor and away from the static or it rolls the highs a bit, but other than that is is a wonderfully balanced cord. I got tired of the posts on the Asylum that said that power cords could not make any difference so I posted the recipe to get more folks involved in DIY power cords which would approach what had been achieved by some manufacturers of esoteric power inlet cords.....The results of that post have been just wonderful as it has opened the eyes of folks that thought they were done with their systems.....There is even a company, DIY Audio, that builds the Asylum cord commercially for those that don't have the time or the patience to build their own.....I'm glad you enjoyed the project and Sean is correct as ICs are the next thing to try and are actually much easier to achieve wonderful results than a good power cord or a great speaker wire....... |
Where can I see the recipe? |
Here is the recipe.
#1 Belden 19364
#2 Pass & Seymour 5266-X AC Plug
#3 Schurter 4300.0603 IEC
#4 You need some good solder to attach the IEC. Bob recommends Wonder but you could probably save a few bucks and get by with some Kester 63/37 with the 44 flux.
I'd also get yourself some TechFlex to cover it and make it look pretty. A little heatshrink holds things in place. Shield only hooked on one side.
If you want more details doing a search on the Asylum is going to net you the most results.
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/cables/bbs.html
I build and sell these... just a disclosure. |
Come on guys, an Absolute Power Cord is cheaper and already made (injection molded in place, that is). |
The "Absolute" is NOT cheaper ( all things taken into consideration ) if you build it yourself. This is especially true if you stick to the basics ( IEC connector, raw cord & power plug ) without adding anything fancy. The fact that you can make a cord to the specific length that you want also adds to the versatility and benefits of a DIY design.
The fact that Bob "donated" the basic "blueprint" for this cable demonstrates that, while being a professional in the business, he is not afraid to lend a helping hand and share his knowledge & experience with those willing to learn. Kudos to Bob and other "down to earth" Professionals like him. Things like this simple "tweak" and display of "sharing" are one of the FEW things that help to recruite newcomers to what is an otherwise overpriced and typically "stuffed shirt" industry. Sean
> |
I have made many of them.It is a great cord.Have sold of all my name brand cords.
Anyone interested in a kit with the parts required email me.
I buy the parts In bulk and make them up for friends.
They do wonders on Computers also. |
Here's what it cost me:
Belden wire: $1.25 a foot
Schurter IEC plug: $7.00
Pass and Seymour plug: $5.00
Total cost for a 6' cord: $19.50 plus a little solder and
about 20 minutes of labor.
That's the best $20 I've spent in a long time!
Dave |
Thanks kevperro. I'll pick some of this stuff up and build a couple. Well put Sean, always nice to here your input on these types of subjects. I've been thinking of building some power cords for awhile now. This looks like a great place to start. |
where do you get the P&S plugs for so cheap?
thanks
rhyno |
The Pass and Seymour plugs are available here in the
midwest at Menard's- a home improvement store, similar
to Lowes, Home Depot, etc. If you can't find them, let
me know and I'll pick some up and mail them to you.
Dave |
thanks for the offer dave. the only place i can find them (as of tonight) is newark.com, where they're $15 ea!
take care
rhyno |
Anyone try the 90 degree IEC (Shurter or P&S?), or 90 degree P&S male AC plug in this (or similar) design?
Also, can these connectors accept 10AWG? Can a P&S 5242, or only the 20 amp 53XX?
Thanks, folks...I ask because I want to make up PCs from the 10-2 Romex I'm using for dedicated lines, so as to power my remote monos. IOW they're hidden, so I may as well go for 10AWG instead of aesthetics.
Thanks for the advice. Ernie |
I've built the 90 degree Schurter into a few cords. It isn't near as good as the 4300.0603 simply because of the contact area across the IEC blade is much smaller. In addition it is harder to work with. I've only used it with stranded 14 gauge and that is difficult enough to stuff into the IEC. I modify the IEC with a dremmel tool and that helps but your talking surgery that insurance companies would frown upon. If somone asked me to put one on a 10 gauge solid Romex I'd just refuse.... if you get it on there is is going to be one hell of a mess on the inside and you would never get it clamped in... you would have to solder.
Just a note... you don't need 10 Gauge going into your equipment. I don't care how much current draw you have or how poorly your power supply is designed. Power cord tweaks are more than just lowering resistance. That is only a small portion of the reason why PCs make a difference. If that wasn't the case we would have the perfect PC by just hooking up some huge copper buss bars across the AC mains and be done with it. Most aftermarket PCs are in the 12-14 gauge range. I think some of them are big just for marketing reasons. I've used 14 gauge on BIG amps and have it outperform 12 gauge easily. It is all about synergy and voodoo B.S. this power cord thing. More of an tweaking art than a science. |
Thanks, Kevin. Decided to use 10-3 for the monos line, but Belden 83803 12-3 FEP over tinned copper for front end dedicated lines AND PCs. Hope I can get it into the Schurters.... Ernie |
