HELP I think I have an electrical issue??

Popping sounds are caused by arc faults. People hear them through speakers when turning on a light switch also.

Have the electrician check the wiring connections from the boiler ignitor to the control panel. There should be a black and a white wire from the ignitor to the boiler control box (120 volt). Sounds like you may have a loose connection. That sound you hear is from an electrical arc that is caused by a space between the wires and the connectors. The loose connection is either at the ignitor or the control box.

Also have him check all the boiler wiring from the boiler shutoff, to the 24 volt transformer and to the boiler control panel. It is also possible that the ignitor itself is bad. Or it's possible that the neutral or ground at the boiler switch is reversed. Or worse, the neutral is bonded to the ground screw. Just have him check everything - sometimes Joe the Boiler Man does his own wiring.

If that's not the case, have the electrician check to see that the boiler wiring is not "borrowing" a neutral (he'll know what that means). If it is, then a dedicated circuit for the boiler wiring may solve the problem.

Jea48

So my first move should be to my furnace company? (This is somewhat overwhelming for me as so my responses with different advice have all came in) But afterall the furnace would more than likely be a free service call due to the fact that it is so new, and then just figure it out from there.

Also I have checked the furnace ground. They grounded it to the gas line that runs right next to it, then there is another ground coming from the panel, inside the furnace there is a wire nut connecting these 2 grounds to the actual ground for the furnace. All of those connections seem to be in correct.

Could any of this be caused by double tapping my ground bar in my panel??

Or it's possible that the neutral or ground at the boiler switch is reversed. Or worse, the neutral is bonded to the ground screw. Just have him check everything - sometimes Joe the Boiler Man does his own wiring.

I have noticed that on my panel I dont really have a neutral bar and a ground bar I just have ground/neutral bar where they are both plugged into. Ground and neutral wires are not separated.

Do they need to be separate?

Tim: disconnecting the audio input interconnects from the amps tells you the amps themselves are picking up the "clicks". Could be incoming via the AC power, or could even be airborne RFI from the furnace highvoltage arc. You already switched to the opposite AC phase which is a good thing to try. A high current AC line isolation transformer may or may not help, but you could try that if you're committed to keeping the tube equipment.

Ensure that the furnace is well grounded. You might try running a temporary ground cable draped across the floor, directly from your distribution panel to the furnace chassis. You could also try connecting a 30uF 400VAC filter capacitor across the AC Hot to Neutral at the furnace (available at your local electrical supply house) which won't cost much and is easy to do. Ferrite filter rings (such as Audioquest sells) placed around the AC line conductors at the furnace and/or at the panel on the dedicated power circuit feeding your amps is also inexpensive & easy to try.

I am not surprised that tube equipment would do this because tubes have extremely high input impedance, making them highly noise susceptible. The BelCanto's being solid state are current mode devices which are far more noise immune. Your only fix may be to eliminate the tubes, which is certainly what I would do.

You make no mention of AC line conditioning which might be a viable cure; borrow a line conditioner to try it. Some listeners don't care for line conditioners on amps, but there are high current models available that won't adversely affect your sonics. I use line conditioning on my whole rig, not only for noise supression but also for AC line transient protection. Catastrophic experiences with lightning damage have previously resulted from my not using any protection in the past; repairs are quite costly not to mention long downtime.
I have a "Chang 9900 Amp" high current 20 amp AC line conditioner sitting here unused if you want to try that let me know via email.

Up here, we don't require the gas line to be bonded unless it's underground. In the States, NEC (250) and Fuel Gas regs are a little confusing and ridiculous, but it certainly doesn't hurt to do so. The gas line can't be used AS the ground. Neither should the water line.

"Joe the boiler guy" probably knows more about the control wiring than an electrician. Can't be wired backwards, depends on a rectified signal to prove pilot.

Jea48: It's more likely that the thousands of volts in the spark are polluting the AC, dedicated line or not, than creating RFI.