Amp switcher

I use Audioquest Slate speaker cables in my setup. The Niles is triggered by a 12v switch that you hook up to one of the amplifiers. When that amp is powered up, the switch is triggered and the load goes from that amp to the speakers. If you don't power it up, the load from the other amp goes to the speakers. I have it hooked up so that turning on the Onkyo triggers the switch. When I want to listen to 2-channel sound, I power up the Cayin and leave the Onkyo off. When I want to watch a movie, I turn the Cayin off (if it is on) and power up the Onkyo. It works quite well after you set it up and I did not notice any degradation in the sound from either amp.

Once I forgot to turn the Cayin off and powered up the Onkyo. The only thing that happened was that I lost the sound coming from the Cayin. When I realized what I had done, I powered off the Cayin. No sweat. Nothing exploded and nothing was damaged. I suggest you do the same. Have the SS amp be the amp that gets switched and the tube amp be the one that is the default.

Have fun!

Thanks for the info Catama. Sounds likes the Niles is the way to go..

Catama

Ok. Which Niles unit are you using?

Goign to Niles audio and selecting PRODUCTS>SWITCHING DEVICES>AUTOMATED SWITCHES... there are a number of switching mechanisms on that page.

Selecting any of them reveals a page where the pdf owners manual is located.

I called them a bit ago and told them my setup and what I would like to do briefly. The tech suggested I look at the Niles SPK-1.

SPK 1

http://www.nilesaudio.com/product.php?prodID=SPK-1&recordID=Automated%20Switching%20Systems&categoryID=Switching%20Systems&catcdID=10&prdcdID=FG00240

This unit sounds like the one you are using perhaps.

The SPK-1 has electronic switching BUT also has standard 5 way binding posts which will accept standard (for us) banana or spade terminated speaker cables, where some of the other Niles units only barely accept #14 AWG bare wire.

The tech said tube amps were indeed at risk if no load is on them when they are energized.

He said with the SPK1 to set the tube amps to the A side and the non tube amps to the B side.

The Butler TDB 5150 uses bipolar output devices, not tubes so in essence it acts like an SS amp in it's output stage.

The switching of the SPK1 will occur when the 200ma trigger ckt is energized, sending the signals then to the B side…. Or in my own case I’d set the B side to the Onkyo/Butler HT config.

Additionally, and prior to turning on the Onkyo/Butler setup I’d have to ensure the Tube amps were off before turning on the HT setup.

Simple. I’d do that anyhow.

Given the larger binding posts on the SPK1 and the not much more price ($100 appox), and 600wpc abilities I feel this unit a better choice.

It also could be modded and one could then swap out the binding posts to Cardas or the like thereafter.

The unit comes with a 2 yr. warranty and can be either shelf mounted or by removing the 4 small cover screws and it’s covering, attached to a wall with two drywall screws or such, then it's covering remounted.

It does not come with a 12vdc trigger… he said I’d have to get one of those at Rat Shak.

So this item appears better in a few areas than does the DPS 1.
HIGHER POWER HANDLING OF 600WPC
BETTER SPEAKER INTERFACES VIA 5 WAY BINDING POSTS

notes:
TWO SHORT SET OF SPEAKER CABLES ARE REQUIRED IN ADDITION AS WELL AS ACQUIRING A 12VDC 200 MA TRIGGER DEVICE FOR THE AUTO SWITCHING FUNCTION.

this unit suits me... as of the two sets of spkr cables still needed I'll not have to go off on high dollar ones for each system... just the 2 ch side.

Mounting the little goober will be some task though.

Sorry, you are right! I am using the SPK-1 (with automatic switching and the larger binding posts). Didn't mean to confuse everyone. I did not pay close attention to the mdel designation in the original post and assumed you were asking about the SPK-1.

I use banana plugs to connect to the speakers, the Niles and the amps. The unit sits on the floor behind may cabinet, but you can wall mount it, if you want. I got mine from OneCall and got the 12v DC trigger from them when I got the unit. I've been using this set up for over a year w/o any issues.

If you are concerned about the tube amp, just make sure you turn it off before switching. You would do that anyway, so it's not that much of a hassle.

Catama,

Can you halp me out with what kind of 12v trigger you used? A bit of a newbie question, but looking at the manual, it appears I need a y cable with a +/- connection. Before looking I assumed it was just a 3.5mm plug.