Bias for Jolida 502 P Amplifier


Just got my new Jolida 502 P yesterday and I'm enjoying it a lot - great sound! (Thanks Wolf and Jedinite for your posts re the Jolida amps) I'm surprised at the amount of bass and slam I'm getting with my Magneplanar 1.7's In fact I'm thinking that for a lot of music I probably won't even turn on my HSU sub.

On setting the bias - how important are small variations? When I got the amp I checked with my multimeter and the amp was set at about 560 mv for all tubes. Moved the bias back to 500 mv per the manual but I'm not sure if it really matters all that much for these small changes? How critical is this?
128x128ejman
Thanks all. I haven't been paying much attention to the bias red lights assuming that my meter would be more accurate. But now that you mention it, the LED's are either dark or barely flicking with no music playing and once the music gets going they kind of flicker on and off in tune with the music beat. Should the red lights be on all the time?

I've been having a lot of fun with the amp and the breaking in period. It's interesting how changes seem to be taking place over time.

For a couple of hours last night the amp got kind of bright sounding to where I thought maybe I needed to consider different tubes? (I like a warm musical non edgy sound) and then all of a sudden it settled down again to a much more mellow musical sound. Maybe the caps or tubes just settling in. Did anybody else experience this?
The "break in" period of my Jolida was hard to quantify since it was so subtle and sounded great right out of the box. I noticed more from tube rolling, my most recent being the amazing Psvane 12AX7T-II input tubes...highly recommended. I look at the LEDs when I adjust the bias and it seems that if you turn the bias up to the point where an LED is steady and then back it off until it's almost out, this corresponds to 500mv...in my amp anyway. After that, the house current fluctuations are evident and I ignore that, although the LED blinking indicates a sign of life.
Ejman,
another important thing to remember is that the bias of a tube amp takes 30-45 minutes to settle down after switching it on. During that initial period the tube bias voltage is all over the map so you shouldn't even bother measuring it until it settles down. Hopefully you already knew this & you were measuring after atleast 45 mins....

I used to own a Jolida 502A some time back but I have forgotten what the bias voltages for the output tubes were supposed to be.
Hi Ejman

Please don't start with rolling tubes until you have spent A LOT of time with the 502P first.Definitely let it settle in.

For me I believe the red LED lights should be on all the time indicating that the amp is properly biased. Normally I turn on my system along with the 502P and I don't listen to music until all the LEDs are illuminated and steady.

Regarding tube rolling I say follow what Wolf did and not what I did. Wolf has the discipline to keep his tube set-up pretty constant while I kept swapping tubes. I've got a box of all sorts of power tubes and preamp tubes in my closet ready to swap out for the 502P. I had to write down all the combinations I could do I have that many tubes.

I found a non edgy sound with Tung Sol KT-120s, Tung Sol 12AT7 and Mullard 12AX7 re-issue. It was a bit mellow for me though.

Keep enjoying your Jolida.
Thanks guys. I've doing the adjustments after waiting about 10 minutes for the amp to warm up. (The manual says wait 5 minutes) but I think Bombaywalla's suggestion of waiting 30-45 minutes makes sense as the amp continues to warm up quite a bit over that time frame. But right now it's sounding wonderful so I think I'll just listen and smile...