Bias for Jolida 502 P Amplifier


Just got my new Jolida 502 P yesterday and I'm enjoying it a lot - great sound! (Thanks Wolf and Jedinite for your posts re the Jolida amps) I'm surprised at the amount of bass and slam I'm getting with my Magneplanar 1.7's In fact I'm thinking that for a lot of music I probably won't even turn on my HSU sub.

On setting the bias - how important are small variations? When I got the amp I checked with my multimeter and the amp was set at about 560 mv for all tubes. Moved the bias back to 500 mv per the manual but I'm not sure if it really matters all that much for these small changes? How critical is this?
128x128ejman

Showing 5 responses by ejman

Thanks all. I haven't been paying much attention to the bias red lights assuming that my meter would be more accurate. But now that you mention it, the LED's are either dark or barely flicking with no music playing and once the music gets going they kind of flicker on and off in tune with the music beat. Should the red lights be on all the time?

I've been having a lot of fun with the amp and the breaking in period. It's interesting how changes seem to be taking place over time.

For a couple of hours last night the amp got kind of bright sounding to where I thought maybe I needed to consider different tubes? (I like a warm musical non edgy sound) and then all of a sudden it settled down again to a much more mellow musical sound. Maybe the caps or tubes just settling in. Did anybody else experience this?
Thanks guys. I've doing the adjustments after waiting about 10 minutes for the amp to warm up. (The manual says wait 5 minutes) but I think Bombaywalla's suggestion of waiting 30-45 minutes makes sense as the amp continues to warm up quite a bit over that time frame. But right now it's sounding wonderful so I think I'll just listen and smile...
Thanks for the info Tbromgard. Which brand KT88's did you prefer and what improvements did you notice?
I called Jolida the other day wondering about why my 502P has 3 screw holes on the sides with no screws. The guy I talked to (not Jarred forgot to ask the name) said those are for the tube cover (didn't know one was available) anyway while talking I asked him about using KT 120's and he said he didn't care for the sound because he found them a bit bright but that the KT150's were really sounding nice (if one could afford them...)

My amp came with the Tungsol 6550 and it's sounding just wonderful as it settles in. Really liking the 3d solid soundstage and great bass. Lush but detailed at the same time. The proverbial discovering all sorts of new things in well known recordings taking place frequently . Paired with my Mapletree preamp it seems an exceptional synergistic combination.

You all don't know how much I worried about going from a very powerful SS amp (CJ MF2300A) to a tube amp a quarter of the power, particularly with my Magneplanar 1.7's. I worried for nothing.
I see where you are going Wolf - with a cute little sign - "You are now entering Stalag JD 502 P..."