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classic rock lps on VPI

I've detailed in previous posts my dislike for the sound of mediocre recorded rock lps on my VPI Scoutmaster with JMW 10.5i.

I have elicited opinions about a second tt setup with a Thorens TD160 for rock recordings and VPI for the rest. I'm not sure I want to go this way.

So, in an effort to use the VPI for both types of recordings, I've returned to seeking a mod program for the VPI that will allow for pleasant listening to both the rock and the rest of my already excellent sounding lps.

I've had some very excellent suggestions for a second tonearm wand that will be used exclusively for the rock recordings. I can get it either custom wired with Cardas wire, or the standard Discovery cable. At this point I am pointing towards the Cardas, as I've heard its warmer in the mids. I also thought the Discovery cable was a bit closed in on top on my previous JMW 9 tonearm, ie. the Cardas. Any thoughts on this?

As for cartridge, at this point I'm pointing towards either a Sumiko Blue Point Special MkIII, or Denon 103R, possibly modded with wood body. My only concern with the Denon would be low compliance. May not match up well with the 10.5i tonearm? Any suggestions here?

Finally, I've had suggestions for the Mini HR-X feet, adding a bit of spaciousness, warmth, refinement. Any feedback on these?

Thanks, Scott
sns
dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
Scott,

My suspensionless TNT is great with rock music & your Scout is very close in design, so you should be able to get there.

Regarding siting, you have exactly the same Scout/wall mount/Bright Star set-up as a fellow I know who benefitted greatly from adding springs under the Bright Star. If you like I can forward you his contact info. Try this & forget the VPI minifeet. This should eliminate irritating glare or tizziness that may be mistaken for resolution in the VPI. With large, low-resonance springs under the heavy Bright Star, the VPI becomes more resolving but sweet & supple across HF. Also, it's worth cutting up or making a replacement birch ply top for the Bright Star, so as to isolate the motor and each plinth foot from every other foot. With this step you eliminate vibration & ringing across the sandbox top from returning to the TT.

With these changes and maybe some tweaks to MC cartridge loading, you should find what you're looking for. If not then move on to another cartridge.

Try five $7 springs on-line from McMaster-Carr P/N 96485K125. The center spring is to be moved around for leveling. They are 1-15/16”D x 4”L and use .148” diameter wire ground flat at the ends. They compress 23.7lbs/inch, up to a total deflection of 2.88”. So a 50lb load compresses each spring about half way down and leaves .88” of unused travel before the spring binds. You can also buy sorbethane sheets from this vendor to wrap around the central windings of each spring for dampening.

The part of my tensioning pulley system that will help you the most is the relatively easy to construct pulley on the motor housing. This is cobbled together with a pressure roller bearing assembly from Boca Bearing & sleeve, alum bar stock, and allen bolts from Ace Hardware. You do need a few tools & thread taps to make it. The added tensioning wheel at the motor lets you reduce lateral tension on the motor & platter while still obtaining grip with the thread. Finally, for smoother treble, try running the thread on the flat section of the platter between the grooves.

http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=showsearchforpage&cat=industry&label=pr

I adapted my pulley system from Frank Schroeder's new tape drive TT. Email me if you need more details.

Dave
stringreen's avatar
stringreen
6,369 posts
 
Cardas cables not only add warmth, but also are grainy and not too punchy in the lows. I would suggest Purist Collosus. They greatly expand the soundstage depth and width, have a very "tuby" sound...they roll off the highs, but still keep the sweetness. I think they are much better than Cardas. I have a pair (single ended) that I would lend to you if you want to pay shipping costs.
dgarretson
2,588 posts
 
Scott,

BTW, listen to piano when setting up the thread drive. Piano will shimmer if the thread is too tight or too loose. Hopefully you have a speed controller, as thread digs deeper into the motor pulley than a rubber band & changes the drive ratio. But it's worth the trouble.
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sns OP
3,003 posts
 
Thanks guys for the suggestions.

Viridian, I've heard acrylic may not always be best. I've thought about mats, Herbies or whatever, just wonder whether they will damp sound more than I like.

Dgarrretson, I've thought about a similar move to the springs, Aurios Pro Max under the Bright Star, wonder how that would differ from the springs. I know the springs are cheaper for sure. I will get back with you on the idler arm setup. Yes, I have the thread running on flat area on platter, and I do have sds. I saw your improvement on the SDS, looks very interesting. I also saw your BAM mod for Merlins, I'm running Merlin VSM-MMs with the SBAM, I may want to go there as well.

Tvad, you previously mentioned this tweak, may be very worthwhile, I will definitely check into it.

Alas, it may turn out that all my plans for the VPI may be put on hold, at least in the short run. Just a few minutes ago I was given an opportunty to possibly purchase a mint Thorens TD 124 MK.II at a damn good price. I would use my modded Rega on it, at least in the short run. From the reviews I've seen, this could be the answer for enjoyable listening to rock lps, if not all lps!
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