Anyone used mini tnt feet on Scoutmaster

FYI VPI is closed till 4/17

I have the same problem as stated by Oscar44. I have an Aries Extended and the feet to not thread into the bottom. I emailed VPI when I first bought them and was told that they would have a "fix" soon?! but I have never heard back from them nor have I seen anything about a retrofit for the Aries.

I have placed them on my superscoutmaster with improvement in background (lower noise floor) and what I feel is a touch more bass. If nothing else they add additional mass and to me look much better.

Well I am glad I am not alone in having this problem - I was beginning to think I was mad! These are supposed to be a simple "screw out the old, screw in the new" replacement. Trouble is, the old coned feet screw off from the table leaving a down-facing threaded bolt for the replacement to screw onto, but the replacements, as you can see in the images online, come with their own bolt looking for a receptacle! The 'adaptors' for original Aries owners are not functional. Even if I could get a tight fit (which I cannot), the new feet are so much higher than the old cones that that they raise the table too high for the stand-alone motor assembly to drive the platter. Clearly they are not designed to work with the Aries original. Dealer seems to think I am imagining this! I guess it's time to have the dealer take these back until VPI sorts it out.

I have an original Aries, but have not tried the mini-TNT feet. I did replace the "isolators" between the plinth and the cone with just a stud though (this was an improvement VPI endorsed) and I think I know the solution. The isolators were a rubber bushing with a 1/4-20 threaded stud coming out each end. One end threaded into the plinth the other into the cone. To remove the isolator I just grabbed the rubber part of the isolator with pliers and unscrewed it. I would suspect what you are seeing is the stud from the isolator. In the event you don't have the isolators you must have the plain stud like I have. To remove the stud you have two options. The first is to get two 1/4-20 nuts (very common size) and thread both on the stud a few threads. Lock the two nuts together by simultaneously tightening one against the other. Then take a wrench to the bottom one and turning counter clockwise (keep your fingers crossed) the stud will back out. You may have to try a few times if the stud was locked in place with thread lock compound. If that fails you could just clamp some vice grips on the thread and turn, but you will destroy the threads this way so you better get the studs out or you have a real mess. I don't know what the "adapter" VPI provides is but it probably is just a stud or a coupler (a long nut to join two studs). Hope this helps!