I'm interested to go read this now.
I have always loved the New Yorker's movie reviews, because they basically understand that their credibility is what makes people want to read them. All they are doing is helping readers decide about a movie ticket and a few hours of their time, but on the other side are large studio or independent makers' productions costing millions of dollars. And yet, they stick to their mission.
Why? Because there is a line between marketing and journalism, hype and truth. So, the whole problem for me with product reviews (in magazines, Youtube etc.) is that they derive credibility from the overt or implied promise of truth but then wind up doing "marketing-lite" for the company. And it's devilishly hard to tell when that happens. Everyone becomes suspicious of every review. "We only review products we like," some say. To which the reader wants to reply, "Review some you don't like once in a while so we know you're willing to take a stand."
The larger problem is that business almost always wins. People are willing to tolerate hype and marketing rather than support – with real money – journalism. Corporations buy news stations and papers or just influence them. We get fluff and hyperbole and propaganda, and lose connection with facts and the ability to self-govern.

