Subwoofer recommendation and wisdom


So I have a relatively difficult room 19' x 19' x 9'. I have made a bunch of sound absorbing panels which made a massive improvement. I have worked on speaker placement and landed on the 5/8 ratio......5x from the back wall, 8x from the side walls. I use Harbeth 30.1 speakers on appropriate stands, driven by a Luxman L505 xII integrated. I am very pleased with the sound but sometimes wish I had a bit more foundation on the bottom end. I will listen mostly to classic rock and jazz. I would like to consider adding a sub, but not sure where to start. I don't want sledgehammer bass, I just want a nice, blended bottom end on my music. I think that is one of the only improvements I can reasonably and cost effectively make. Looking for recommendations on a sealed sub that would have a good chance of integrating well in my room.

My preference would be for a single sub solution. Thanks
 

stuartbmw3
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Don’t go dual T5x , go with a used T9x , then get a second , there are lots used from anywhere including TMR in fact I just traded 2 T9x into them in brand new mint condition and they have some others , the dual T9x can be used if you upgrade or go to larger home , where the T5x is stuck and you will just lose money if you ever upgrade 👊🏾  

I used a pair of T/9x with my 30.2 XD’s which I thought worked really well. I had a chance to A/B that set up in my room with 40.3 XDs and it was really close.

IMO you need subs in pairs and driving them from the speaker taps makes a lot of sense (unless it’s a home theater set up)

 

 

 

@mswale    I don't agree with any sub crawl suggestions. It's hard to localize bass below 40Hz. A mic does a better job.

When performing the crawl or stroll within the room you're listening for the standing bass wave excited by the extra low frequency typically near a rooms boundary. 

Exactly what make and model subwoofer have you placed in the listening position to preform this task?

Sub-bass woofers output rated at -6dB@xxHz typically roll off before exciting the rooms standing waves resulting in the crawl a futile exercise.

This is not a passing phase.
 

What is most important with Rel’s of any size is checking phase. The phase switch can be set at 0 or 180. My first humble-rumble set of Rel Quakes, even back in 2006 went far deeper when set out of phase.

Remember this simple check and never assume anything. The two Rel T9i’s l use now with the Hi level input are correct with the 0 degree (in phase) position.