We Vinyl Ultrasonic or Vacuum Cleaner?

Ultrasonic is superior and considered the best method to clean vinyl records.

"Overkill"? I don't think you can overclean a record, so it's all just a matter of effort vs reward. It does take some effort, but using a Loricraft and then a Degritter gets me unimpeachable results.

@neonknight,

Windham Hill for the most part, used a HDPE record liner and good vinyl. Some of the black vinyl if you holdup to light are translucent brown.  So, they are generally in very good condition upon receipt.  I do not recall anyone of their records being delivered with a paper sleeve, which I have stopped buying NOS records that are known to have used paper sleeves.  The paper is not acid-free, and a few decades of storage; likely in a pressed condition, causes what I call sleeve rash - and there is no recovery cleaning process.

Before spending for a UT Tank, suggest you first use your OkkiNokki but with a cleaning solution using a good brush (I use the Amazon.com: Record Doctor Clean Sweep LP Vinyl Cleaning Brush : Electronics), with good technique - quick back & forth motion; it's not about bearing down on the brush, let the fluid agitation do the work.  Then use a double-rinse to ensure all cleaning agent is removed.  Blower style vacuum-RCM does not suck up all the fluid, as much as 30% is evaporated/dried in-place (confirmed by testing; see Chapter XIII of this free book -Precision Aqueous Cleaning of Vinyl Records-3rd Edition - The Vinyl Press.

The 132-kHz  High-Frequency Ultrasonic Cleaner UC-8180L (132 kHz; 6 liter; 110V) – CleanerVinyl sounds impressive except the power rating of 180W is low for that size of tank (the Degritter 120-kHz is 300W into 1.4-L) and the Chinese made 60W/transducer power rating (3 installed) is a bit optimistic.  If you plug the UT into an inexpensive wattmeter, you will more than likely see a power considerably less.  The problem is that as the kHz increases, the power needed for cavitation increases; see the beginning of Chapter XIV of the book for the basic thumb-rules for UT.  Industrial table-top units with high kHz are often 240VAC for the necessary power and their power ratings are verified.  

The catch-22 is if you buy the higher kHz unit, you may find that even for new records, you will need to preclean with your  OkkiNokki; and for DIY UT, many people use a vacuum-RCM (with rinse) to dry after UT cleaning.  It avoids the need or filtration to keep the UT clean of frequent tank refresh.  This is what makes the one-stop clean/dry units such as the HummingGuru, Degritter and KLAudio so appealing.

Good Luck,

OP,

We sound like we may have a similar approach to life... I want to spend as little time doing mundane tasks and as much time doing high value activities... minimize cleaning the house, doing laundry and maximize music listening and climbing mountains. 

I have an Okki Nokki vacuum RCM and a Degritter II ultrasonic. 

I clean all my new records before playing them in the Degritter using distilled water only, and no cleaning formula. For used records or ones that are otherwise soiled and need a deep clean, I use my Okki Nokki as a presoak with AIVS Formula #15 enzymatic solution, followed by a two tank cleaning in the Degritter. The first tank has Degritter’s cleaning formula and the second tank is a pure distilled water rinse cycle.

This process has been extremely effective for me. I have about 5000 LPs I’ve collected over the last 50 years or so, and continue to buy about 200 LPs every year.